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***The official Alden thread *** - Page 4460

post #66886 of 86591
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post

 

I'm speaking strictly traditionally.  I'm not saying there aren't exceptions, as there are countless combinations that these boutique shoe shops have now had made up given the popularity of menswear in recent years.

 

However, traditionally speaking, an oil soaked sole is going to fall into a more casual category than a traditional oak tanned sole simply because of it's appearance.  You are right that if the edge trim is black, then most people will never notice.  However, there are still those who cross their legs and show their soles, even though it isn't "couth".  It isn't a deal breaker on any shoe, and I didn't mean it that way.  Rather, if I had three pairs of black captoes lined up, which were all the same, with the exception of the sole, and one had an oak tanned sole with black edge trim and black finishing on the bottom (where it doesn't touch the ground), one had traditional oak tanned soles, and one had the rich brown oil soaked soles, I would rank their formality in the order I listed them.

 

I was answering the OP's question on why Alden doesn't use oiled leather soles on all their shoes.  It certainly wouldn't hurt to have them on most shoes, assuming you like them.


Sounds perfectly reasonable.  Thanks...

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post #66887 of 86591
Quote:
Originally Posted by jl70115 View Post

Thank you to all that provided insight, my questions have been answered. Now if I can just find the perfect combination of LWB with an antique edge and double waterlock sole I can put this current fixation to rest.

I didn't see the original post, but Leffot has a few sizes left of their latest run of exactly what you described in Color 8
post #66888 of 86591
Quote:
Originally Posted by kwhitelaw View Post

that's a unique one.. other than pelle line, I can't recall seeing a brown chukka. even then, the brown chukka at pelle line doesn't even state that it is CXL. moreso, their photo doesn't reflect it being commando

sorry, no help smile.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by rydenfan View Post

Check shoe mart. I got a brown CXL chukka there previously. I think it was a waterloc but you could just beat the hell out of it and then send to to B Nelson once you need a new sole

Thanks. I'll check with the Shoemart tomorrow. Unionmade makes something close but it's scotch grain which I've never been particularly interested in. Would love to find one to use over the winter.
post #66889 of 86591
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bakes11771 View Post
 

 

Pretty wild that you were able to cite that obscure example off the top of your head.

I thought long and hard about pulling the trigger on those shoes.  Like I said earlier, i prefer the traditional double oak tanned leather soles (JR), so I didn't order them.

post #66890 of 86591
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarthur View Post

nephew,
good looking suede gunboats
nice combo

Thank you Uncle!

post #66891 of 86591
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarthur View Post


[/SPOILER]

wear only in good health

Thank you sir.....

post #66892 of 86591
Just curious if any one feels that the Barrie last on a boot is tighter/smaller than shoe?!?! I have had or owned a Trubalance Indy, Barrie shell SWB, Plaza shell medallion toe, and recently a pair of Epaulet Taunton Cap Toe boot on Barrie.

I was a 9.0D in Trubalance/Barrie shoes and 9.5D in my Plazas. I figured that I have this whole Alden sizing thing dialed in. Anyhow, I wore my new 9.0D Taunton Cap toes today and they feel really snug. They have the commando sole and I was planning on wearing thicker socks with them as my go to winter boot. At this point, it does not look like it is going to happen. I am totally bummed....

Anyone interested in a pair of 9.0D Burnished Tan Cap Toe boots worn for 6 hours.... Probably less than 1/4 mile of walking frown.gif
post #66893 of 86591
Quote:
Originally Posted by jl70115 View Post

Sole question - I'm trying to get a handle on the different soles, and from what I can reasonably gather from browsing this lengthy thread for a few months now, the Double Waterlock is initially more comfortable/easier to break in, lighter and possibly better wearing than a traditional double leather sole due better handling of wet weather. Any comments and experience on these assertions? If all or even most of that is true, why doesn't Alden use Double Waterlock soles on everything? Also, is the Flex Welt the same as a single Waterlock sole? Every picture I see of a Waterlock sole looks like a Flex Welt sole, i.e. the darker coloring.

Many thanks.

I have cycled through ~20 different Alden shoes and boots now (kept 10 for the long haul) in a variety of soles; single waterlock, double waterlock, crepe, standard oak tan, commando. I have resolved to default to Alden purchases on the waterlock soles, preferably double waterlock. They are more comfortable immediately after purchase, have a shorter break in time and are better in wet weather. Crepe comes very close but it looks too casual in many situations and looks very rough after some wear. My oldest pairs of Alden are about 3 years old now and the shoes/boots with waterlock soles are holding up better than others in wear and appearance.

WRT aesthetics, I usually wear my Alden's with jeans so I have no issue whatsoever with the idea that a waterlock sole is less formal than the standard oak. Having said that, unless you are a very conservative dresser or work in an environment where you are expected to maintain a certain appearance, I can't imagine someone would care to judge you based on the shade of your soles.

I would not kick a beautiful makeup out of bed based on sole, but would much prefer any Alden shoe or boot with waterlock soles.
post #66894 of 86591
Quote:
Originally Posted by onehotchili View Post

Just curious if any one feels that the Barrie last on a boot is tighter/smaller than shoe?!?! I have had or owned a Trubalance Indy, Barrie shell SWB, Plaza shell medallion toe, and recently a pair of Epaulet Taunton Cap Toe boot on Barrie.

I was a 9.0D in Trubalance/Barrie shoes and 9.5D in my Plazas. I figured that I have this whole Alden sizing thing dialed in. Anyhow, I wore my new 9.0D Taunton Cap toes today and they feel really snug. They have the commando sole and I was planning on wearing thicker socks with them as my go to winter boot. At this point, it does not look like it is going to happen. I am totally bummed....

Anyone interested in a pair of 9.0D Burnished Tan Cap Toe boots worn for 6 hours.... Probably less than 1/4 mile of walking frown.gif

My experience is that there is more of a difference between style makeups on Barrie lasts (captoe versus shortwing vs longwing vs ptb vs etc..) than there is between boots and shoes on the Barrie last. You can say I am a Barrie/Trubalance specialist and all makeups I have received fit roughly all the same. I had captoe boots (two pairs out of ~20) that felt tighter than what I was used to. It might be related to the thicker band of leather used on a punched captoe that was placed more pressure on my forefoot but I was not sure.

Keep in mind that the cork footbed will break in resulting in your foot sinking down a little bit into the boots after a few wears so any pressure you feel towards the top of your feet will ease, however if you feel pressure on the sides of your feet then it is likely not a good match.

Best of luck and happy cordovan.
post #66895 of 86591
Quote:
Originally Posted by onehotchili View Post

Just curious if any one feels that the Barrie last on a boot is tighter/smaller than shoe?!?! I have had or owned a Trubalance Indy, Barrie shell SWB, Plaza shell medallion toe, and recently a pair of Epaulet Taunton Cap Toe boot on Barrie.

I was a 9.0D in Trubalance/Barrie shoes and 9.5D in my Plazas. I figured that I have this whole Alden sizing thing dialed in. Anyhow, I wore my new 9.0D Taunton Cap toes today and they feel really snug. They have the commando sole and I was planning on wearing thicker socks with them as my go to winter boot. At this point, it does not look like it is going to happen. I am totally bummed....

Anyone interested in a pair of 9.0D Burnished Tan Cap Toe boots worn for 6 hours.... Probably less than 1/4 mile of walking frown.gif

 

My experience is cap toe style (no matter shoe/boot) is tighter than long wing/nst/plain toe.

Some people said boots, in general, are tighter than shoes in the same last.

 

If you still want to keep the boots, try wearing dress socks with them.

But as you said you want to make them your go to winter boots, so.....

post #66896 of 86591
Quote:
Originally Posted by jl70115 View Post
 

 

Thank you to all that provided insight, my questions have been answered. Now if I can just find the perfect combination of LWB with an antique edge and double waterlock sole I can put this current fixation to rest.

Call Alden DC.  I believe they did a ravello LWB make-up in this manner less than a year ago.  It's unlikely they have any left, but you can at least get on their list for their next run.  Not sure that I have seen that combination from any other retailer.

post #66897 of 86591
I like that saying.... "Happy Cordovan"

Much nicer than "Go to SHell, my friend" smile.gif
Edited by tampatravel - 11/21/13 at 4:22am
post #66898 of 86591
Quote:
Originally Posted by jl70115 View Post

Thank you to all that provided insight, my questions have been answered. Now if I can just find the perfect combination of LWB with an antique edge and double waterlock sole I can put this current fixation to rest.

As mentioned before, Leffot orders this combo twice a year and appears to have 3 sizes left currently (8E, 10E, 11.5E).
post #66899 of 86591
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcibiades View Post

As mentioned before, Leffot orders this combo twice a year and appears to have 3 sizes left currently (8E, 10E, 11.5E).

I went and tried on the 10E and it was about a 1/4" larger than 10D in overall length, which is my size in barrie. Phenomenal shoe that I will be pre-ordering next time. Wasn't a total loss. Picked up a jar of Reno.
post #66900 of 86591
Quote:
Originally Posted by sazon View Post

Damn, those #8 dovers are sweet. They sold out in my size in no time!



Great lookin pix today gents!



NST today for me

 



I love these.
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