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[MoneyWellSpent]

FYI- DWF on Suede from the John Lobb appreciation thread. This guy is a freakin genius/oracle.

Originally Posted by DWFII

I doubt that there are many leathers better suited for suede than calf. Maybe horse but other than that, none that I know of. The fibers in a young animal, such as a calf, are closer together and shorter than on an older animal. This applies across the board, whether it be calf or cow, kid or goat, alligator or dinosaur.

IMO, cow is too old and too coarse to make a good suede.

Kid and goat is too delicate although sueded womens shoes are made of kid) .

No other leathers (except maybe horse as prev. mentioned) are fine enough to be a suitable suede.

But the main issue...and I wonder if this is just a matter of terminology...is that usually, at least lately, when a suede is marketed as "calf suede" it is actually a full grain calf skin that has been finished for use with the flesh side out, but with the grain side still intact. That last bit is the important part.

Most "suedes" in commercial use...esp. on shoes in the sub $1000.00 range...are actually "splits" from cow hides. The flesh is coarser, but more importantly, the grain side is missing. So all the strength in the hide is also missing.

It is my understanding that sometimes a tanner/currier can get two splits and a top grain off of one hide. The top grain is relatively premium...the splits are borderline offal.

I've avoided making suede shoes for many years because here in the US real calf suede (with the grain intact) is not readily available, only splits. Although I have turned high end French calf flesh side out. And if I select and cut the hide carefully, it makes a very successful suede.

Happily, I recently found a source in England for bona fide grain suede.

DWFII is a lot of fun to engage in conversation with. I certainly haven't come across anyone with more knowledge than him on shoes, their components, and their history. He founded the Crispin Colloquy, which is a forum similar to SF but it is only for bespoke shoe makers. It has lots of great reading.

 

[stevenm104]

I now have the sickness. Thanks everyone!

 

[bespoken pa]



I now have the sickness. Thanks everyone!

Potatoe po-tat-oe, looks the cure from where I'm standing

 

[FrankCowperwood]



36630: Cigar Tassel

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler! (This one is for Frank and Zippyh

Seems like you are taking extraordinary precautions there, Bakes, but I suppose you are better safe than sorry considering. Glad you are taking an evidence-based approach in light of the literature.

 

[jkater1]

Not shoes, but stopped at a local Alden dealer and pick up one of these.

 

[BeSpiffington]



Not shoes, but stopped at a local Alden dealer and pick up one of these.

Very cool. Your wallet might as well have Alden on it just to remind you where all your money is going.

 

[matt92037]

Looks like they completely sold out or pulled them off the site to fix the price. Sadly, I am expecting an order cancellation soon. If JCREW doesn't cancel our orders, it will be the fastest selling and least profitable Alden make-up JCREW has ever offered.

man you guys wiped out the stock for the smaller sizes of that black cap toe!

 

[david3558]



Looks like they completely sold out or pulled them off the site to fix the price.  Sadly, I am expecting an order cancellation soon.   If JCREW doesn't cancel our orders, it will be the fastest selling and least profitable Alden make-up JCREW has ever offered.

Well - a couple years ago I snagged a ton of stuff with a 25 or 30% off coupon that worked... haha

 

[100 yrs]

i hate that the winn perry website still exists out there teasing me with excellent makeups

 

[ThArtOfWardrobe]

Can anyone who owns a pair of dark brown suede comment on whether or not they lighten with age like snuff tends to do?

 

[Bakes11771]

with spring about to emerge, i really kind of want suede full strap loafers.

am i crazy, or would these be a cool spring shoe?

http://www.pelleline.com/store/product-info.php?alden_shoes_6839_full_strap_suede-pid966.html

Personally, I don't like it at all.

Don't really like the full-strap in general, and I own 3 LHS and 2-3 Tassels (third pair is en route, might not keep em [666 from BB]), and the full strap is sort of a cross b/w the two (penny loafer on aberdeen)

Maybe if it were #8, cigar, ravello or whiskey, but I definitly don't like it in suede, especially black suede.

^Much better

not sure I like black suede at all.

What would you wear them with?

That is a low price for Aldens, so I understand why they got your attention.

I'm probably the first guy in the 46905 posts that has tried to talk another out of buying a pair of Aldens.

 

[Papa Doble]



Personally, I don't like it at all.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Don't really like the full-strap in general, and I own 3 LHS and 2-3 Tassels (third pair is en route, might not keep em [666 from BB]), and the full strap is sort of a cross b/w the two (penny loafer on aberdeen) Maybe if it were #8, cigar, ravello or whiskey, but

I definitly don't like it in suede, especially black suede.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

^Much better not sure I like black suede at all. What would you wear them with? That is a low price for Aldens, so I understand why they got your attention. I'm probably the first guy in the 46905 posts that has tried to talk another out of buying a pair of Aldens.

I have to agree.

 

[archangle13]

Hi folks, what size would you recommend on the Aberdeen last for a foot that measures 26cm in length and 10cm in width?

I'm contemplating a pair of shell tassel loafers.

For reference, I wear a size 41.5 in the Vass F last.

 

[david3558]

41.5 sounds like a 9D to me...

I wear 9D Aberdeen, and have the same width and I'm in between 41/42 in Vass apparently (according to their size chart).

You'd be:

9D Aberdeen
8.5D Barrie
8.5D Trubalance
9D Plaza
9D/E Leydon (Ledyon can run narrow)

 

[archangle13]

41.5 sounds like a 9D to me...

I wear 9D Aberdeen, and have the same width and I'm in between 41/42 in Vass apparently (according to their size chart).

You'd be:

9D Aberdeen
8.5D Barrie
8.5D Trubalance
9D Plaza
9D/E Leydon (Ledyon can run narrow)

Wow thanks!

Are you a TTS9D on the Brannock device too? Do you happen to wear any AEs, like perhaps on the 5 last?