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***The official Alden thread *** Share enthusiasm, reviews, sizing, advice, and photos. - Page 6200  

post #92986 of 122416
Dudes, there were a ton of awesome shoes today. Very nicely played. Good to see some Whiskey today on this fine Wednesday.

Here were my guys today. More pics later when I have time and am not walking the dog...



Everything looks better on the Plaza to me. :-)

-Mike
post #92987 of 122416
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdubs View Post
 

It's been awhile since this has been posted. I have updated the post somewhat.

ALDEN FAQ

Compiled by @borderline and @Bakes11771 using the combined wisdom of "The Official Alden Thread" on Styleforum and other web sources.

Before Buying
What are the different lasts and how do they fit relative to one another?

Source: @REguy, Reference: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/13590#post_4526910

 

Anecdotal Sizing Information (Click to show)

From @NewYorkRanger

I find the Modified last (for my foot) is wider than the Barrie. 9D Modified fits me great, while 9D in Barrie is a snug fit, the E width for me in Barrie is too wide. I find the Trubalance last to be a little bit bigger overall last to the Barrie, whereas the Modified has a more tapered mid foot under the arch, opening up to a wider forefoot.

 

From @borderline:
Normal size is 10.5D, I take a 10D in Barrie and 10.5E in Leydon

From @Pastor:

I wear a 9 D in the Barrie and i've also tried a 9E in the Barrie. I won some of each and wear them both. The 9D is a little snug and the 9E is a little loose. I have a pair of 9.5 D leydon lasted LWB and they fit great. I went with a 9.5D on the grant.
9.5 E in the Dalton and most all AE's
9D in the truebalance (almost perfect fit)
9.5 D in grant ( perfect fit)
9.5 D in leydon (perfect fit)

 

From @dsmivtr:
I wear 6.5D Barrie and the 7D Grants fits well for me (actually 6.5E also works fine).

 

From @kippy:
If you size down 1/2 for barrie (say 10E to 9.5E), don't try to size down 1 and go wider (to 9EE)

 

From @MiniW:

the best way to determine fit and comfort is to ensure that the ball of your foot is at the widest part of the shoes. some people may have short toes and some people may have longer toes but using that area as a reference point has always worked well for me. Also there is just a feel when you put on a pair of shoes if it feels slightly too large or slightly too tight. If you think it fits you well and is not causing any pain or slipping off when you lace them, then they are likely the right size.

 

From @mdubs:

I am a 10.5C True to Size (TTS). I wear the following sizes on the following lasts:

-10D on Van

-10.5B on Barrie and Trubalance

-10.5C on Grant, Leydon, Plaza, and Tremont (and AE 5-last for those with AE experience)

-11B on Hampton and Aberdeen

 

What do the different cordovan colors look like?

@zippy Color Comparison: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/21165#post_5102551
@makewayhomer Color Comparison: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/21300#post_5108188

Color Variation Sample: http://cdn.styleforum.net/e/ec/ecd5c41b_image.jpeg

I feel like I'm buying too many Aldens, what can I do?
1) Give up, there is no hope.
2) Stop reading this thread

Are Alden shoes worth the price?
At the end of the day, the main benefits to Alden shoes are
1) High quality Horween leathers (Chromexcel, cordovan, and I assume suede) in unique colors
2) Willingness to work with retailers (many of whom work with customers) to develop special styles
3) Variety of well-fitting lasts
4) Recraft-ability (not necessarily by Alden, but by a variety of cobblers)
5) Decent price point compared to shoemakers that work with similar materials
6) Traditional aesthetic (high quality and stylish in a "handsome," "gentlemanly" way)
7) Alden shoes are pretty comfortable, can be very eye catching (cordovan, suede, etc tend to get tons of compliments) and overall enhance one's look.
The obvious downsides are
1) Poor quality control, particularly as they ramp production
2) Low / inconsistent availability
(Alcibiades)

After Buying
How should I break in my shoes?
Use “Mac’s Break-in Procedure”:
Shoes should be worn only on carpeting on three different days for a minimum of one hour in order to ascertain that the fit is proper.

What is the "pen trick"?
You put a pen where your foot joints are and then crease the shoe. This way the crease is set exactly where your joint bends and the crease is nice and even. People report varying levels of success with this, and it is generally thought to be more important for the PTB.

Will my cordovan shoes stretch?
The consensus is that cordovan stretches very little, if at all.

 

Care and Cleaning


How should I clean my cordovan shoes or boots?
 

Use the “Mac Method”:
1) Clean shoes with damp cloth

2) Brush vigorously with a horsehair brush

3) Buff with smooth cloth

4) Use wax after a minimum of fifteen wearings
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lp5nyVAjMWQ&feature=player_embedded
http://theagatineeyelet.wordpress.com/2010/10/05/the-mac-method/

Some other cleaning advice from Alden of Carmel
1. Do not use 'neutral' polish
2. Do not clean cordovan shoes using saddle soap
3. Do not attempt to clean cordovan shoes using petroleum distillates or cleaning fluids
4. Do not use any spray shines or aerosol type waterproofs
5. Do not attempt to dry wet shell cordovan shoes with heat or a heater. Wipe them dry, and allow them to dry naturally
6. Do not attempt to polish shell cordovan shoes while wet
http://www.alden-of-carmel.com/index.cfm/care_of_shell_cordovan.htm

Some cordovan cleaning advice from the Shoe Care thread
http://www.styleforum.net/t/228153/the-official-shoe-care-thread-tutorials-photos-etc/1425#post_5216113

Some cleaning advice from user MarioImpemba
http://seddylife.tumblr.com/image/36249869978

My shoes are dry and/or discolored in the creases. How can I fix this?
Alden SF recommends using a small amount of cream in the creases. This can moisturize the area and also bring up some of the natural color in the leather. Most people use either Saphir Renovateur or Venetian Shoe Cream.
http://www.hangerproject.com/saphir-renovateur.html
http://oakstreetbootmakers.com/accessories/venetian-shoe-cream

My cordovan shoes got wet and there are tiny round marks or bubbles. What should I do?
1) Next time try the Alden Leather Defender
2) Brush them for awhile
3) Try some Renovateur
4) Try the deer bone treatment
5) Just wait, it will go away evenutally

My cordovan shoes has some white stuff on the leather. What do I do?
This is called "bloom". One method is to use a hair dryer, hold it 6" away from the shoe, and then after it cools down use a chamois cloth and buff it for awhile. It should go away.

 

How do I care for the edges on my shoes?

This depends for the color of the dressing. For Black, I recommend the Allen Edmonds Black Heel & Sole Edge Dressing. You may also want to consider the Saphir edge dressing projects available from the hangerproject.com as well.

 

For antique edge dressing, I recommend Patrick's method, which is as follows.

 

 

I want new shoelaces for my Indy Boots. What are my options?
1) Alden will mail you a pair if you ask. http://www.aldenshoe.com/
2) The Alden Madison store will sell you waxed laces for ~$6. http://aldenmadisonny.com/
3) Red Wing model 9011 will work, request them here http://www.redwingheritage.com/laces/

Restoration/Cobblers

 

Alden offers a restoration service. More information can be obtained from Alden directly.

http://www.aldenshoe.com/DrawOnePage.aspx?PageID=12

 

Will Alden put a different sole on my shoes?
Alden Restoration will now only recraft your shoes using original materials. If you want to put on a different sole, your best bet may be B. Nelson.
http://www.bnelsonshoes.com/

Can I have speed hooks converted to eyelets?
B Nelson will do it for $12 per eyelet (not per pair). A standard Alden boot with 4 pairs of speed hooks would therefore run $96. The top four eyelets would be off-centered with the bottom five, which is often done to compensate for the oblong size of the speed hooks.
Here's an example: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/18000#post_4958968

 

Miscellaneous


Acronyms
LWB: Longwing blucher
SWB: Shortwing blucher
PTB: Plain toe blucher
LHS: Leisure hand sewn (a loafer)

 

Why do they call it the Indy boot?
http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/21750#post_5128364
http://www.theraider.net/information/indy_gear/boots.php
http://www.indygear.com/igboots.html

Did Alden invent the Tasseled Loafer?

It has been claimed that Alden invented the Tassel Loafer for Paul Lukas.

http://www.nytimes.com/1993/11/03/garden/the-politicization-of-tasseled-loafers.html

 

A video by Epaulet about the Alden factory
http://vimeo.com/6997219

Cordovan: A Photo Gallery of Some of Mac's Shoes
Whiskey: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11760#post_4267010
Ravello: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11760#post_4266962
Cigar: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11745#post_4266729
#8: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11745#post_4266673

Online Purchasing Options

 

Alden San Francisco (factory store - with online presence) http://www.aldenshop.com/

Alden Washington DC (factory store - no online presence) http://www.aldenshoe.com/

Alden New York (Madison Ave.) http://www.aldenmadisonny.com/

Alden of Carmel http://www.alden-of-carmel.com/index.cfm/shoes.htm

The Shoe Mart http://www.theshoemart.com/alden-shoes/bt-ald.html

Leather Soul http://www.leathersoulhawaii.com/category/brands/alden/

CitiShoes http://citishoes.com/aldmen.htm

Sherman Brothers http://www.shermanbrothers.com/brand...S&BrandCode=AL
J. Crew https://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/shoes/AldenForJCrew.jsp
Leffot http://blog.leffot.com/category/footwear/alden-brands/
Ben Silver http://www.bensilver.com/Alden.html
Moulded Shoe http://mouldedshoe.com/aldeno.html
Unionmade http://unionmadegoods.com/brands/alden/
Context http://www.contextclothing.com/brand.php?brand=Alden
Epaulet http://epauletnewyork.com/collections/alden
Renners Fine Boots & Shoes http://www.rennersbootsshoes.com/aldenshoes1.html
Sky Valet http://www.skyvalet1.com/Alden_c_13.html
Frans Boone Store http://www.fransboonestore.com/collections/Alden
The Bureau https://www.thebureaubelfast.com/brand/alden-for-the-bureau-belfast
J. Gilbert http://www.jgilbertfootwear.com/products-page/alden/
Need Supply http://needsupply.com/mens/brands/alden
Francos http://www.francos.com/

Brooks Bros. http://www.brooksbrothers.com/

 

I really enjoyed the video by Epaulet if you haven't watched it you should!! Lots of great info thanks for posting this again!

post #92988 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcarthur View Post

fc8i6c.jpg
whiskey lwb, argyles otc
2n6659i.jpg


the color is amazing uncle. congrats once again

post #92989 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by intensanity View Post

The things I'd do for color 4 cap toes...
^^^ what he said
post #92990 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbo316 View Post

King Naval boot from one of the forums most respected as well as one of my most respected members.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tifosi View Post

Hmmmmm??? 8D?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbo316 View Post

Yep.

I think "most respected" might be taking it a bit too far.... LMAO! rotflmao.gifcrackup[1].gif

lurker[1].gif
post #92991 of 122416
Color 4 captoes are super duper funky fresh but I'd unload mine for the right price.

Ravello today.

post #92992 of 122416
Tardy to the tanker party





post #92993 of 122416
^^ It's OK. Tanker Thursday is a thing.
post #92994 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by sazon View Post

Color 4 captoes are super duper funky fresh but I'd unload mine for the right price.

Ravello today.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Nice looking ravelo man. Im sort of hoping the ravelo out of Alden NYC looks like this later this year with the dark edge trim.

 

I know you were a couple sizes bigger than me or Id be PMing ya already about owning color 4 captoes! I would gladly buy the color 4 wingtips from someone as well. :)

I wouldn't think it was totally out of the questions to see TSM run the captoes again at some point if the leather could be sourced.

 

Its funny how these colors grow on you when you go from a casual owner of a pair or two --- > to a collector. I still am not sure I'm ready for color 2 but I now appreciate the reasons why people like them.

post #92995 of 122416

guys, which one do i keep from the following

 

 

 

Black Shell cordovan tanker boot on the Plaza last with commando sole & speedhooks

 

 

Black Shell cordovan tanker boot NST on the Barrie last with commando sole & all eyelets

 

Black Shell cordovan tanker boot NST on the Aberdeen last with double leather sole & speedhooks

post #92996 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by rydenfan View Post

Tardy to the tanker party


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Love these. These are on my list but I know I'll probably never get lucky enough to score these from Leather Soul.
post #92997 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by sazon View Post


Love these. These are on my list but I know I'll probably never get lucky enough to score these from Leather Soul.


+1

post #92998 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by prez View Post

guys, which one do i keep from the following



Black Shell cordovan tanker boot on the Plaza last with commando sole & speedhooks




Black Shell cordovan tanker boot NST on the Barrie last with commando sole & all eyelets



Black Shell cordovan tanker boot NST on the Aberdeen last with double leather sole & speedhooks


The first boot is a "Indy Plaza" or a "Moc Toe" boot as opposed to a tanker (as it is not split toe). I prefer the split toe pattern in these types of boots (I like the moc toe pattern on wider lasts like Barrie or Trubalance). So it is between the Barrie and Aberdeen tanker boots. It all depends on what kind of environment you plan on wearing them in. I wear my Barrie black cordovan tanker boots on weekends, in wet weather and on grass, all when I can benefit from a commando sole. I wear my black captoe boots when I don't need that protection.

Overall, based on your posts, your wardrobe seems on the sleeker and dressier side with less use for more rugged boots. If that is correct, I would go with the plaza tankers on double leather sole.
post #92999 of 122416

Plum and saddles today.

(Ignore the Saint Bernard har that follows me everywhere.)

post #93000 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by prez View Post
 

guys, which one do i keep from the following

 

 

 

Black Shell cordovan tanker boot on the Plaza last with commando sole & speedhooks

 

 

Black Shell cordovan tanker boot NST on the Barrie last with commando sole & all eyelets

 

Black Shell cordovan tanker boot NST on the Aberdeen last with double leather sole & speedhooks

 

 

Just my preference, but I'd say the Barrie/Commando.  I get a better fit out of that last and it's got the NST+ commando, which makes it a true Tanker. 

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