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***The official Alden thread *** Share enthusiasm, reviews, sizing, advice, and photos. - Page 5810  

post #87136 of 122416
House of Prime Rib is awesome. Was one of my fav restaurants when I lived up there.

Sounds like you had a great trip! Glad you got fitted properly!!! Alden SF has always been super patient with me when I have been there.
post #87137 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdubs View Post

A majority of the credit goes to borderline and Bakes. I just copied their old post and updated it a bit and verified all the links worked and updated the broken ones. :-)

Thank you for updating this post, Mike.  Very thoughtful of you.

post #87138 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebeebs View Post

The Dalton boot looks like hell.  Undersized wingtip, as if they didn't cut enough material to stitch to the vamp. All shaft and no head. Now let's get back to Aldens.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddy0329 View Post



Indeed they do have a thread. I mention them as a point of reference. Disparaging and dismissing them is shortsighted / ignorant and indicative of snobbish preconceptions. I've worn some Alden balmorals and in my opinion they are inferior to offerings from Allen Edmonds. Does Alden have a superior selection of bluchers yes? But since most of my dress shoes are balmorals that probably explains why I gravitated to AE instead of Alden. I have boots from both brands, love the Daltons. love my Fifth Streets. I have a pair of Kudu Indy boots which are constructed very well with a great lug sole, but that makeup is overly clunky IMO; that said ai preordered a pair of Indy's from Epaulet this week in their Innsbruck makeup. Bottom line, there are pros and cons to offerings and practices of both companies, and I respect the virtues and benefits that each offer to me as a consumer.

As for so called "juggernauts" everyone has a right to their own opinion and heroes; I consider myself an independent thinker not tied down by the conventions, biases, and preconceptions of others.

Never understood the need to do this. Very well said.
post #87139 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdubs View Post

It's been awhile since this has been posted. I have updated the post somewhat.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
ALDEN FAQ


Compiled by @borderline
 and @Bakes11771
using the combined wisdom of "The Official Alden Thread" on Styleforum and other web sources.

Before Buying

What are the different lasts and how do they fit relative to one another?


Source: @REguy
, Reference: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/13590#post_4526910
Anecdotal Sizing Information (Click to show)
From @NewYorkRanger
I find the Modified last (for my foot) is wider than the Barrie. 9D Modified fits me great, while 9D in Barrie is a snug fit, the E width for me in Barrie is too wide. I find the Trubalance last to be a little bit bigger overall last to the Barrie, whereas the Modified has a more tapered mid foot under the arch, opening up to a wider forefoot.

From @borderline
:


Normal size is 10.5D, I take a 10D in Barrie and 10.5E in Leydon

From @Pastor
:
I wear a 9 D in the Barrie and i've also tried a 9E in the Barrie. I won some of each and wear them both. The 9D is a little snug and the 9E is a little loose. I have a pair of 9.5 D leydon lasted LWB and they fit great. I went with a 9.5D on the grant.

9.5 E in the Dalton and most all AE's

9D in the truebalance (almost perfect fit)

9.5 D in grant ( perfect fit)

9.5 D in leydon (perfect fit)

From @dsmivtr:

I wear 6.5D Barrie and the 7D Grants fits well for me (actually 6.5E also works fine).

From @kippy
:

If you size down 1/2 for barrie (say 10E to 9.5E), don't try to size down 1 and go wider (to 9EE)

From @MiniW
:

the best way to determine fit and comfort is to ensure that the ball of your foot is at the widest part of the shoes. some people may have short toes and some people may have longer toes but using that area as a reference point has always worked well for me. Also there is just a feel when you put on a pair of shoes if it feels slightly too large or slightly too tight. If you think it fits you well and is not causing any pain or slipping off when you lace them, then they are likely the right size.

From @mdubs
:

I am a 10.5C True to Size (TTS). I wear the following sizes on the following lasts:
-10D on Van
-10.5B on Barrie and Trubalance
-10.5C on Grant, Leydon, Plaza, and Tremont (and AE 5-last for those with AE experience)
-11B on Hampton and Aberdeen

What do the different cordovan colors look like?
@zippy
 Color Comparison: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/21165#post_5102551
@makewayhomer
 Color Comparison: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/21300#post_5108188
Color Variation Sample: http://cdn.styleforum.net/e/ec/ecd5c41b_image.jpeg

I feel like I'm buying too many Aldens, what can I do?

1) Give up, there is no hope.

2) Stop reading this thread

Are Alden shoes worth the price?

At the end of the day, the main benefits to Alden shoes are

1) High quality Horween leathers (Chromexcel, cordovan, and I assume suede) in unique colors

2) Willingness to work with retailers (many of whom work with customers) to develop special styles

3) Variety of well-fitting lasts

4) Recraft-ability (not necessarily by Alden, but by a variety of cobblers)

5) Decent price point compared to shoemakers that work with similar materials

6) Traditional aesthetic (high quality and stylish in a "handsome," "gentlemanly" way)

7) Alden shoes are pretty comfortable, can be very eye catching (cordovan, suede, etc tend to get tons of compliments) and overall enhance one's look.

The obvious downsides are

1) Poor quality control, particularly as they ramp production

2) Low / inconsistent availability

(Alcibiades)

After Buying

How should I break in my shoes?

Use “Mac’s Break-in Procedure”:

Shoes should be worn only on carpeting on three different days for a minimum of one hour in order to ascertain that the fit is proper.

What is the "pen trick"?

You put a pen where your foot joints are and then crease the shoe. This way the crease is set exactly where your joint bends and the crease is nice and even. People report varying levels of success with this, and it is generally thought to be more important for the PTB.

Will my cordovan shoes stretch?

The consensus is that cordovan stretches very little, if at all.

Care and Cleaning


How should I clean my cordovan shoes or boots?

 
Use the “Mac Method”:

1) Clean shoes with damp cloth


2) Brush vigorously with a horsehair brush


3) Buff with smooth cloth


4) Use wax after a minimum of fifteen wearings
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lp5nyVAjMWQ&feature=player_embedded
http://theagatineeyelet.wordpress.com/2010/10/05/the-mac-method/

Some other cleaning advice from Alden of Carmel

1. Do not use 'neutral' polish

2. Do not clean cordovan shoes using saddle soap

3. Do not attempt to clean cordovan shoes using petroleum distillates or cleaning fluids

4. Do not use any spray shines or aerosol type waterproofs

5. Do not attempt to dry wet shell cordovan shoes with heat or a heater. Wipe them dry, and allow them to dry naturally

6. Do not attempt to polish shell cordovan shoes while wet
http://www.alden-of-carmel.com/index.cfm/care_of_shell_cordovan.htm

Some cordovan cleaning advice from the Shoe Care thread
http://www.styleforum.net/t/228153/the-official-shoe-care-thread-tutorials-photos-etc/1425#post_5216113

Some cleaning advice from user MarioImpemba
http://seddylife.tumblr.com/image/36249869978

My shoes are dry and/or discolored in the creases. How can I fix this?

Alden SF recommends using a small amount of cream in the creases. This can moisturize the area and also bring up some of the natural color in the leather. Most people use either Saphir Renovateur or Venetian Shoe Cream.
http://www.hangerproject.com/saphir-renovateur.html
http://oakstreetbootmakers.com/accessories/venetian-shoe-cream

My cordovan shoes got wet and there are tiny round marks or bubbles. What should I do?

1) Next time try the Alden Leather Defender

2) Brush them for awhile

3) Try some Renovateur

4) Try the deer bone treatment

5) Just wait, it will go away evenutally

My cordovan shoes has some white stuff on the leather. What do I do?

This is called "bloom". One method is to use a hair dryer, hold it 6" away from the shoe, and then after it cools down use a chamois cloth and buff it for awhile. It should go away.

I want new shoelaces for my Indy Boots. What are my options?

1) Alden will mail you a pair if you ask. http://www.aldenshoe.com/

2) The Alden Madison store will sell you waxed laces for ~$6. http://aldenmadisonny.com/

3) Red Wing model 9011 will work, request them here http://www.redwingheritage.com/laces/

Restoration/Cobblers

Alden offers a restoration service. More information can be obtained from Alden directly.
http://www.aldenshoe.com/DrawOnePage.aspx?PageID=12

Will Alden put a different sole on my shoes?

Alden Restoration will now only recraft your shoes using original materials. If you want to put on a different sole, your best bet may be B. Nelson.
http://www.bnelsonshoes.com/

Can I have speed hooks converted to eyelets?

B Nelson will do it for $12 per eyelet (not per pair). A standard Alden boot with 4 pairs of speed hooks would therefore run $96. The top four eyelets would be off-centered with the bottom five, which is often done to compensate for the oblong size of the speed hooks.

Here's an example: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/18000#post_4958968

Miscellaneous

Acronyms

LWB: Longwing blucher

SWB: Shortwing blucher

PTB: Plain toe blucher

LHS: Leisure hand sewn (a loafer)

Why do they call it the Indy boot?
http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/21750#post_5128364
http://www.theraider.net/information/indy_gear/boots.php
http://www.indygear.com/igboots.html

Did Alden invent the Tasseled Loafer?
It has been claimed that Alden invented the Tassel Loafer for Paul Lukas.
http://www.nytimes.com/1993/11/03/garden/the-politicization-of-tasseled-loafers.html

A video by Epaulet about the Alden factory
http://vimeo.com/6997219

Cordovan: A Photo Gallery of Some of Mac's Shoes

Whiskey: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11760#post_4267010

Ravello: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11760#post_4266962

Cigar: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11745#post_4266729

#8: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/11745#post_4266673

Online Purchasing Options

Alden San Francisco (factory store - with online presence) http://www.aldenshop.com/
Alden Washington DC (factory store - no online presence) http://www.aldenshoe.com/
Alden New York (Madison Ave.) http://www.aldenmadisonny.com/
Alden of Carmel http://www.alden-of-carmel.com/index.cfm/shoes.htm
The Shoe Mart http://www.theshoemart.com/alden-shoes/bt-ald.html
Leather Soul http://www.leathersoulhawaii.com/category/brands/alden/
CitiShoes http://citishoes.com/aldmen.htm
Sherman Brothers http://www.shermanbrothers.com/brand...S&BrandCode=AL

J. Crew https://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/shoes/AldenForJCrew.jsp

Leffot http://blog.leffot.com/category/footwear/alden-brands/

Ben Silver http://www.bensilver.com/Alden.html

Moulded Shoe http://mouldedshoe.com/aldeno.html

Unionmade http://unionmadegoods.com/brands/alden/

Context http://www.contextclothing.com/brand.php?brand=Alden

Epaulet http://epauletnewyork.com/collections/alden

Renners Fine Boots & Shoes http://www.rennersbootsshoes.com/aldenshoes1.html

Sky Valet http://www.skyvalet1.com/Alden_c_13.html

Frans Boone Store http://www.fransboonestore.com/collections/Alden

The Bureau https://www.thebureaubelfast.com/brand/alden-for-the-bureau-belfast

J. Gilbert http://www.jgilbertfootwear.com/products-page/alden/

Need Supply http://needsupply.com/mens/brands/alden

Francos http://www.francos.com/
Brooks Bros. http://www.brooksbrothers.com/

Wow, extremely helpful and informative post Mike. Thanks.
post #87140 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddy0329 View Post



Indeed they do have a thread. I mention them as a point of reference. Disparaging and dismissing them is shortsighted / ignorant and indicative of snobbish preconceptions. I've worn some Alden balmorals and in my opinion they are inferior to offerings from Allen Edmonds. Does Alden have a superior selection of bluchers yes? But since most of my dress shoes are balmorals that probably explains why I gravitated to AE instead of Alden. I have boots from both brands, love the Daltons. love my Fifth Streets. I have a pair of Kudu Indy boots which are constructed very well with a great lug sole, but that makeup is overly clunky IMO; that said ai preordered a pair of Indy's from Epaulet this week in their Innsbruck makeup. Bottom line, there are pros and cons to offerings and practices of both companies, and I respect the virtues and benefits that each offer to me as a consumer.

As for so called "juggernauts" everyone has a right to their own opinion and heroes; I consider myself an independent thinker not tied down by the conventions, biases, and preconceptions of others.

Sorry, Buddy, I stand by what I said. If you were to read more carefully, Mr. Free Thinker, you'd see I did not "disparage" them: I simply said they are nowhere near as good as Aldens. And they aren't. Even your amazing Daltons and Fifth Streets. I wear a pair of black Leeds now, but the 9901 is so much better than my Leeds - I just can't justify the 9901...yet.

Also, reading posts with a bit of irreverence would go a long way for your health - we're talking about stupidly expensive shoes here, and the reference to "juggernauts" should also lead you to an excellent spoof video on Youtube.

And Alden bals - on the hampton, tremont and plaza lasts - are better looking than the 5 last for sure. Fit is idiosyncratic to one's foot, so I'd prefer not going there.
post #87141 of 122416
Online Purchasing Options

Alden San Francisco (factory store - with online presence) http://www.aldenshop.com/
Alden Washington DC (factory store - no online presence) http://www.aldenshoe.com/
Alden New York (Madison Ave.) http://www.aldenmadisonny.com/
Alden of Carmel http://www.alden-of-carmel.com/index.cfm/shoes.htm
The Shoe Mart http://www.theshoemart.com/alden-shoes/bt-ald.html
Leather Soul http://www.leathersoulhawaii.com/category/brands/alden/
CitiShoes http://citishoes.com/aldmen.htm
Sherman Brothers http://www.shermanbrothers.com/brand...S&BrandCode=AL

J. Crew https://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/shoes/AldenForJCrew.jsp

Leffot http://blog.leffot.com/category/footwear/alden-brands/

Ben Silver http://www.bensilver.com/Alden.html

Moulded Shoe http://mouldedshoe.com/aldeno.html

Unionmade http://unionmadegoods.com/brands/alden/

Context http://www.contextclothing.com/brand.php?brand=Alden

Epaulet http://epauletnewyork.com/collections/alden

Renners Fine Boots & Shoes http://www.rennersbootsshoes.com/aldenshoes1.html

Sky Valet http://www.skyvalet1.com/Alden_c_13.html

Frans Boone Store http://www.fransboonestore.com/collections/Alden

The Bureau https://www.thebureaubelfast.com/brand/alden-for-the-bureau-belfast

J. Gilbert http://www.jgilbertfootwear.com/products-page/alden/

Need Supply http://needsupply.com/mens/brands/alden

Francos http://www.francos.com/
Brooks Bros. http://www.brooksbrothers.com/
[/quote]


Adding more to mdubs list:

Habberdash
http://korvue.shophaberdash.com

North River
http://www.northriveroutfitter.com/alden-shoes/

Barney's
http://www.barneys.com/Shoes/mens-shoes,default,sc.html?prefn1=designer&prefv1=Alden

Pelle Line
http://www.pelleline.com/product-list.php?sort-by-price-desc.html
Edited by RevisIsland - 7/20/14 at 6:21am
post #87142 of 122416
Mike (@mdubs)

Those cigar jumpers are my Alden holy grail. Where is that makeup from?

Chris

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddy0329 View Post

How does the Jcrew x alden cordovan captoe on Barrie last stack up relatively speaking? My (suspected) size is not available new, but I came across a pair whose owner never wore them...zero sole wear. Some early creasing in the uppers from probably carpet wear.

I already have AE Daltons in burgundy shell so I was considering Wolverine 744 LTD's in brown shell for a more casual alternative.

Are there any other Alden makeups out there right now I should be looking at (#8 or cigar...no black right now) I'm not very familiar with Alden retailers but have been checking Leffot, Epaulet, Unionmade, need supply, AoC, TSM, alden San Francisco, Leathersoul. others?

I like the Kirkwood captoe makeup that Unionmade offers, but no apparent stock in 10D on their website.

I have the #8 Kirkwoods from Unionmade and love them. I want a good mix of straight captoe and PCT. This boot because it was so dark was going to look more formal regardless, so straight cap toe it went!
post #87143 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by ReppTiePrepster View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by sevenfoldtieguy View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by halfnhalfnhalf View Post

If looking like a guerrilla rebel, punk rocker, and/or disenchanted emo teen is wrong, I don't wanna be right.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Where is that boot from?


Alden SF has it online.

 

Thanks.  Alden SF was indeed my source.  They appear to have a few sizes left:

 

http://www.aldenshop.com/Store/DrawProducts.aspx?CategoryID=157&ParentID=94&PageID=&Action=

post #87144 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by halfnhalfnhalf View Post
 

 

Thanks.  Alden SF was indeed my source.  They appear to have a few sizes left:

 

http://www.aldenshop.com/Store/DrawProducts.aspx?CategoryID=157&ParentID=94&PageID=&Action=

 

That's trubalance though. Yours is barrie.

post #87145 of 122416
What stores are currently offering a 405 on commando?
post #87146 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebeebs View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdubs View Post

A majority of the credit goes to borderline and Bakes. I just copied their old post and updated it a bit and verified all the links worked and updated the broken ones. :-)

Thank you for updating this post, Mike.  Very thoughtful of you.


Thoughtful indeed.  Much thanks kind sir!

post #87147 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by sacafotos View Post

Honestly, the AE Dalton in burgundy shell is the one AE shoe/boot that I feel competes well with Alden, in terms of look and quality, and honestly beats Alden's color 8 WT boot on Barrie (Unionmade) by a mile. I'd have to see it side by side with a plaza lasted WT to compare.

It's my first pair of high end boots and favorite pair. Right amount of sleekness, the right shade of burgundy. Thick leather soles that sound like an officer is walking down the hall to interrogate you.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

I have both the Dalton in walnut shell and the barrie wingtip boot.  The two are very different animals.  You are correct in that the Dalton is sleeker, but that's not what the barrie last is intended to be.  The leather soles are the exact same (JR), although the Kirkwood is on commando.  As for quality, I can not in anyway agree with you.  as for AE burgundy shell versus Alden color 8, I can not comment as AE's burgundy is really inconsistent in color/shade and finish (much more so than Alden).  YOu may have come acrss a great shade of burgundy.  While I like my Dalton (I like that they feel much lighter on my feet), it looks like a cheaper version of a wingtip boot... awkward-looking cut for the perf-wing-tip (vamp looks expansive) and eyelets look cheap.

 

I still think it's a nice boot, but when I finally acquire a ravello wingtip boot on barrie later this year, I'm afraid I will not reach for this poor soul anymore.

EDIT:  Sorry to rehash much of what had already been addressed.  I somehow missed a couple of pages of posts yesterday and responded accordingly.  I will say @Roguls that yesterday at Alden SF I was sized for the 9016 (perf cap toe bal) and was not entirely impressed with the hampton last.  I liked the shape of the toe, but the region between the cap toe line and the beginning of the heel looked fat/inflated.  It may e that I'm not used to it, but it looks puffy for a proper dress shoe.  The aberdeen last and AE's 5 last (strand, PA, cambridge, etc...) seem to me to be more appropriate for a formal dress shoe.

 

@sevenfoldtieguy or others who have any experience with the snap last, do the BB versions of the Alden dress bals look similar to the hampton last in this respect?  Thanks in advance...


Edited by ReppTiePrepster - 7/20/14 at 8:37am
post #87148 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shouldaville View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by halfnhalfnhalf View Post
 

 

Thanks.  Alden SF was indeed my source.  They appear to have a few sizes left:

 

http://www.aldenshop.com/Store/DrawProducts.aspx?CategoryID=157&ParentID=94&PageID=&Action=

 

That's trubalance though. Yours is barrie.

 

I had always thought mine were Barrie but when Alden SF put them back up online I noticed the model numbers were the same.  So, either I'm wrong, or the store is.

post #87149 of 122416

Four ways in which AE competes favorably with Alden -

 

(1) Leaving Dalton aside, at least four AE models are as good as if not better than their Alden counterparts:

 

Strand medallion cap toe
MacNeil LWB
Leeds PTB
Dundee chukka

 

(2) All can be individually MTO’d through SF without upcharge in three different colors of Horween shell (as well as a basically infinite array of soles, edge colors, welts, etc.), and turnaround is generally a month or less.

 

(3) Seconds are pretty easy to obtain and have gone as low as $299 recently.

 

(4) AE’s customer service is as good as I have encountered in ANY context, not just shoes.

post #87150 of 122416
AE vs Alden debate reminds me of women in a way. Alden, the beautiful woman who treats you like crap because she knows she is beautiful and someone will always desire her vs AE, the less attractive woman who will always be attentive to your needs. She tries harder because she has to. Both have a place.
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