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***The official Alden thread *** Share enthusiasm, reviews, sizing, advice, and photos. - Page 5432  

post #81466 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by thelastquestion View Post

Any links to any of this? Would love to read it myself. How did you conclude that it is nearly fully permeable?

Let me look for the thread....

I spend several days having a back and forth with Horween while playing with Natural shell. I stripped half a piece of shell with Reno Mat ( after being advised not to...) and loaded the hide with several conditioners while backing the skin with oil absorbing papers.

At the end of it all, I'm ok with conditioner passing through the finish applied to the shell by Alden....
post #81467 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyWellSpent View Post
 

I agree with Budapest.  I wasn't meaning to say that there is anything inherently wrong with their finishing.  I was just pointing out that it isn't a magical (albeit a secret) process that is leading to the finished product.  They aren't getting the cream of the crop from Horween that's kept in a locked vault that nobody else can possibly gain access to.  If you like it, buy it.  I like it too.  Others prefer the "natural" appearance of shell.

 

It can certainly be argued that Alden's finish is covering the natural beauty of the shell, since it isn't naturally that way when it is finished by the factory, and that bothers some people.  I'm really not trying to argue the pros and cons except to say that Budapest's point about sheathing the leather in an artificial product could have ramifications that wouldn't apply to shell left in it's natural state coming from the tannery.  We've all seen great looking pairs of Alden's that are several decades old, so there may not be any negatives, assuming their treatment hasn't changed.  That may be all the evidence we need.  However, from a theoretical perspective, covering a material that needs to breathe and accept periodic nourishment with a product that could actually hinder that may not be a good thing. 

 

I think many like Alden's finish, but not everyone.  There is apparently a market for both. 


I don't think this is an issue of agreeing or disagreeing with a position.  I don't know of anyone here who has asserted that Alden gets Horween's choice shell supply over other shoe makers.  I even mentioned my preference to my older color 8 shoes (Alden) of mine that do not have the over-the-top wet, high-gloss look.  Enjoy the remainder of the weekend gents...

post #81468 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckeye Nation View Post


It's funny you bring this up...

Up front I admit I'm a tech geek, and a tinkerer by nature - soooo... remember when one guy here completely stripped his boots and then used Reno to bring back a more muted shine? He demonstrated that the Alden top coat does not handle scratches nearly as well as naked shell...

He also did testing on the acrylic top coating to prove what Alden's method more-or-less was. At that time I started doing research on exactly what you are taking about, I spoke with people from Horween, read several papers, and did some tests on one of my Ashland wallets.

Basically, I believe the top coating applied by Alden is nearly fully permeable - Saphir Reno passes through it and is absorbed, as is water (this is why we see bumps on our shoes after rain). I spent some time on this because I was trying to figure out what people here were referring to as "wet" and "dry" shell. Basically, after my tests, I determined the verbiage has nothing to do with the amount of oil / fat in the skin, and is simply a reflection of the acrylic top coat.

Very well conditioned Cordovan can appear much more "dry" than Alden top coated shell...

Just my 0.000002 BCN

Cheers,
BN

Very interesting. Thanks for your time and effort to test and post this. I also would like to have a read of the original test if you can post it up.

post #81469 of 122416
Here are a few threads that a member with much bigger stones than I put together.

This guy gets the credit, but his post got me thinking and playing with some of my shell.

Would you believe you can condition shell with Saphir Dubbin Grasse???

Ask me how I know....

Anyway, I found the links - this guy is the man, BTW...



http://www.styleforum.net/t/354137/leather-quality-and-properties/1095#post_6942686



http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/76860


Cheers,
BN
post #81470 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckeye Nation View Post


It's funny you bring this up...

Up front I admit I'm a tech geek, and a tinkerer by nature - soooo... remember when one guy here completely stripped his boots and then used Reno to bring back a more muted shine? He demonstrated that the Alden top coat does not handle scratches nearly as well as naked shell...

He also did testing on the acrylic top coating to prove what Alden's method more-or-less was. At that time I started doing research on exactly what you are taking about, I spoke with people from Horween, read several papers, and did some tests on one of my Ashland wallets.

Basically, I believe the top coating applied by Alden is nearly fully permeable - Saphir Reno passes through it and is absorbed, as is water (this is why we see bumps on our shoes after rain). I spent some time on this because I was trying to figure out what people here were referring to as "wet" and "dry" shell. Basically, after my tests, I determined the verbiage has nothing to do with the amount of oil / fat in the skin, and is simply a reflection of the acrylic top coat.

Very well conditioned Cordovan can appear much more "dry" than Alden top coated shell...

Just my 0.000002 BCN

Cheers,
BN

 

Good to know that some actual testing has been done!  I knew there was a chance that it would be permeable, which is why I was careful to use "theoretical" earlier. 

post #81471 of 122416
The pair of #8 975s I just got from one of J Crew's recent "sales" was considerably darker than my other pairs. With the exception of the usual blotchy dye job on the vamps, it was probably the best $450 I've spent in a while.
post #81472 of 122416

Thoughts on the following makeup:

 

Alt Wien boot

Color 8 shell cordovan

Antique edge 

Leather or flex sole

Plaza last

 

I know there was an MTO list from about 7/2103 with 8-9 people interested. Is this a boot anyone would like to see happen?

post #81473 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by epc2 View Post



They're both nice but I'm with DV Marlow is nice but too pointy and sleek for casual, I had to sell mine since they were not a good fit for me ,Barrie size too narrow and TTS the instep was too big needing insoles or tongue pads, I like the Marlow color better but the 975 is way more comfortable and a best fit for me., in the other hand the Marlow medallion and stiching is very nice better than Alden IMHO but shell finish is better on the Alden.

The Marlow is like a mix between a bal and a blucher.

Thanks for all the great replies everyone. What is the sizing like on the two? Do I go with the same size for both the marlows and the 975s?

post #81474 of 122416
Count me in, would love to see a boot version on #8.

D
Quote:
Originally Posted by sacafotos View Post

Thoughts on the following makeup:

Alt Wien boot
Color 8 shell cordovan
Antique edge 
Leather or flex sole
Plaza last

I know there was an MTO list from about 7/2103 with 8-9 people interested. Is this a boot anyone would like to see happen?
post #81475 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by sacafotos View Post
 

Thoughts on the following makeup:

 

Alt Wien boot

Color 8 shell cordovan

Antique edge 

Leather or flex sole

Plaza last

 

I know there was an MTO list from about 7/2103 with 8-9 people interested. Is this a boot anyone would like to see happen?

How you plan to make this happen - no offense - is beyond me.

post #81476 of 122416
Thanks BN for reposting the links.


I actually like the look of the deglazed #8 boot. I wonder if I deglazed the boots I have, all I would need to do would be to apply a Lexol periodically to condition. If I started applying brown paste to the degalzed boots would they start to take on a browner shade versus the eggplant mine are now?

very interesting topic
post #81477 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrr22777 View Post
 

All I have in Alden is the indy so far. Looking to get loafers. Which one of their loafers is the most popular one?

 

Just buy what appeals to you.  Don't worry about what is popular.

post #81478 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckOB View Post

Thanks BN for reposting the links.


I actually like the look of the deglazed #8 boot. I wonder if I deglazed the boots I have, all I would need to do would be to apply a Lexol periodically to condition. If I started applying brown paste to the degalzed boots would they start to take on a browner shade versus the eggplant mine are now?

very interesting topic

Personally, I wouldn't want to deglaze my more formal shoes, but I wouldn't be totally opposed to trying it on my AF53 boots.  I'm almost convinced they would look better with a more matte finish.  I'm curious as to whether they would patina more quickly without the glaze.  

post #81479 of 122416
There are certain models Alden doesn't glaze - e.g., cigar shell/snuff suede saddle from Leffot. I have that shoe. I have various glazed cigar models too. I prefer the glazed version going away.

Some prefer matte shell. Carmina shell, which i also own, is a good choice for them.
post #81480 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by budapest12 View Post

How you plan to make this happen - no offense - is beyond me.
Agreed. This is the Alden thread. Although I am not opposed to optimism.
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