Newbie question here. I wandered into the Alden Store on my last trip to San Francisco and immediately appreciated the quality of the shoes. I ended up getting both a pair of 975's and 990's. Anyways, I wanted to try something different and purchased a pair of straight tip boots in black cordovan. Since they are also on the Barrie last, I was expecting them to have the same "clunkiness" (which I really like) as my other two pairs. When I received them, I was surprised that the soles were a bit more trim and cut closer to the shoe. There is only one set of stitches in the welt - those that attach the welt to the sole. On my 975's and 990's, there are two distinct sets of stitches - the same one that my straight tip boots have, plus another that attaches the welt to the main part of the shoe (vamp?).
So, here is my question - is there a name to these two different welt styles? Is there a functional benefit to one over the other? Any other comments would be appreciated. Thanks for your time.
I think you may be describing the difference between a 360' storm welt versus a flat welt.
This first pair is of a storm welt...
The next two are off a flat welt
Does this look like what are referring to??