or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › ***The official Alden thread *** Share enthusiasm, reviews, sizing, advice, and photos.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

***The official Alden thread *** Share enthusiasm, reviews, sizing, advice, and photos. - Page 4778  

post #71656 of 122416

Hey all, question for the heavy walkers.

 

I'm looking for a PTB and it's either going to be the shell version of the dover with single flex sole or a 990 with a commando sole. i don't have experience with either of those soles. As a manhattan resident who walks everywhere, i do need the sole to give me some length. obviously the commando will last longer but how long would the flex wear on nyc sidewalks? i prefer the look of the dover, but maybe not if i need to get it resoled in 4 months...

 

http://leffot.com/alden-x-leffot-dover-color-8-shell-cordovan/

 

http://www.aldenmadison.com/SHELL4.html

post #71657 of 122416

Commando if you want to wear them this time of year

post #71658 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by feyy View Post

Hey all, question for the heavy walkers.

I'm looking for a PTB and it's either going to be the shell version of the dover with single flex sole or a 990 with a commando sole. i don't have experience with either of those soles. As a manhattan resident who walks everywhere, i do need the sole to give me some length. obviously the commando will last longer but how long would the flex wear on nyc sidewalks? i prefer the look of the dover, but maybe not if i need to get it resoled in 4 months...

http://leffot.com/alden-x-leffot-dover-color-8-shell-cordovan/

http://www.aldenmadison.com/SHELL4.html

I own a black cordovan unlined dover and the classic 990 with the double leather sole and wear both regularly. I also live in Manhattan and walk basically everywhere, so I have good experience with this issue.

When it comes to walking all day, almost no Alden cordovan shoe is as comfortable as the 990. In either double leather or commando sole, the cork bed and the sole will let you walk miles with little discomfort. The shoe feels extremely solid.

The flex sole and unlined cordovan results in the dover being a much more unstructured shoe, and walking around all day in the shoe can make your feet feel a bit tired. In addition your feet feel more feedback on the flex sole, so you notice things like cobblestone a lot more. In a way the flex leather sole can even feel softer than rubber soles such as the soles you find on Sperry or Quoddy boat shoes.

In addition, the dover feels much colder in the kind of cold weather we are having now. It also probably feels less hot in the summer, which is an advantage.

The dover looks sleeker than the standard PTB, but it is still has the rounded barrie last. I think the classic 990/9901 looks very elegant.

Push comes to shove, I would rank the PTBs this way
1) Classic PTB on double leather sole (990,9901)
2) PTBs on commando soles (Alden of Carmel, etc)
3) Unlined PTBs

In fact, I am considering a 9901 or a black PTB on commando to supplement or replace my black cordovan unlined PTB.

Hope that helps
post #71659 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcibiades View Post

Black captoe boots
J Crew suit and Epaulet parka

Well done!

post #71660 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by NAMOR View Post

This is exceptional

Thanks. This means a lot coming from you
post #71661 of 122416


WT boots waiting at the dentist's office.
post #71662 of 122416
Just FYI, I contacted Tres Bien, in regards to the Dovers and Spoke with Jesper. He stated the shoes are infact a width of E and not D. There goes two Dovers I would have bought. So Sad.
post #71663 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by fitchottie View Post

Just FYI, I contacted Tres Bien, in regards to the Dovers and Spoke with Jesper. He stated the shoes are infact a width of E and not D. There goes two Dovers I would have bought. So Sad.

They have 9.5E blue dovers... $286 isn't bad for a good spring-fall shoe...
post #71664 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by aldenwear View Post
 

The top picture is of a dover.  The cordovan version of the dover tends to be unlined cordovan.  I believe the picture of the dover you have is an unlined cordovan dover from Leather Soul.  If I am right, I think that dover is, in fact, on the barrie 

 

 Because of the lack of lining, the dover tends to crease more than the PTB.  The unlined cordovan dover is on a single leather sole whereas the 990 is on a double leather sole.  Because of the lack of lining and single leather sole, the dover tends to be more casual than the 990 (although neither is a dress shoe like the captoe blucher) and the unlined cordovan and single leather sole requires less break in than the 990.  In addition, people report that the unlined cordovan tends to fit a little more snugly than the the same size 990.   The unlined cordovan dovers tend to look a little sleeker than the 990s.

thanks. feedback from you all was very informative and helpful. much appreciated

 

Seems a lot of people here prefer the dover and/or the single sole versions because they do appear to be a bit sleeker. After looking at a bunch of pictures I think Im actually leaning towards the classic 990 or some version of it with antique edge trim. Strange thing about the 990 and 9901 PTB is I used to find it a bit boring and unattractive.. Now its the Alden model I am most interested in. The chunky last and the lack of sleekness is what I find most appealing about it in a strange way.

 

Called the Madison shop which offers the 990 in double leather sole and also on the commando but they were sold out in my Barrie size (9.5).

Can anyone think of any downsides if I can find the 990 on the commando sole compared to the traditional leather? I think the commando looks pretty cool with it and I work as a chef so I rarely need the shoes for formal occasions. Mostly wear with jeans and chinos.

 

This may be a dumb question to most on here but how can I tell by looking at a pair of my Aldens if they are unlined? I have a pair of black cordovan boots that are white on the inside with what looks like no extra lining but im not sure. Would seem weird for a boot to be unlined I would think

post #71665 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcibiades View Post


They have 9.5E blue dovers... $286 isn't bad for a good spring-fall shoe...

Are the PTB on tres bien in color8 the stock 990? Wondering why they would be so much more expensive than other retailers? I have bought clothes from them in the past and their pricing has been competitive on other clothing items

post #71666 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by smdbitchh View Post

Are the PTB on tres bien in color8 the stock 990? Wondering why they would be so much more expensive than other retailers? I have bought clothes from them in the past and their pricing has been competitive on other clothing items
Probably VAT. Subtract 20% if you are in US. But, yes, they seem to be the stock 990.
post #71667 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by smdbitchh View Post

Are the PTB on tres bien in color8 the stock 990? Wondering why they would be so much more expensive than other retailers? I have bought clothes from them in the past and their pricing has been competitive on other clothing items

Yes, they are. The price includes the 20% European VAT tax, so they are about $90-$100 more than standard pricing when that tax is removed. International retailers often have that kind of markup on Alden cordovan shoes.

If you want a 990, call Alden San Francisco, Alden DC or even stores like Leather Soul. Someone should have 9.5D in stock.

Both the 990 and the version on commando soles will be very versatile. You will feel more comfortable wearing the commando sole in wet/snowy weather while you will feel more comfortable wearing the 990 with dress pants or even suits.
post #71668 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcibiades View Post


Yes, they are. The price includes the 20% European VAT tax, so they are about $90-$100 more than standard pricing when that tax is removed. International retailers often have that kind of markup on Alden cordovan shoes.

If you want a 990, call Alden San Francisco, Alden DC or even stores like Leather Soul. Someone should have 9.5D in stock.

Both the 990 and the version on commando soles will be very versatile. You will feel more comfortable wearing the commando sole in wet/snowy weather while you will feel more comfortable wearing the 990 with dress pants or even suits.

Yeah I will probably call around. I was leaning towards the 990 w commando since it seems a bit different and only the madison store offers it with that sole as far as I know. If I cant find it on commando I could always order it on the double leather sole and have it switched out to a commando  when the original sole needs replacing.

 

Ideally not having to order from another city would be ideal since I could try it on in person. I have 2 other Aldens on the Barrie last both in 9.5 but they are boots and I remember when I tried them on both the 9 and 9.5 fitting but I ended up going with the larger size. Maybe with the blucher the size 9 would be a better fit since it doesnt lace up as high? Haha so many questions

post #71669 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by smdbitchh View Post
 

thanks. feedback from you all was very informative and helpful. much appreciated

 

Seems a lot of people here prefer the dover and/or the single sole versions because they do appear to be a bit sleeker. After looking at a bunch of pictures I think Im actually leaning towards the classic 990 or some version of it with antique edge trim. Strange thing about the 990 and 9901 PTB is I used to find it a bit boring and unattractive.. Now its the Alden model I am most interested in. The chunky last and the lack of sleekness is what I find most appealing about it in a strange way.

 

Called the Madison shop which offers the 990 in double leather sole and also on the commando but they were sold out in my Barrie size (9.5).

Can anyone think of any downsides if I can find the 990 on the commando sole compared to the traditional leather? I think the commando looks pretty cool with it and I work as a chef so I rarely need the shoes for formal occasions. Mostly wear with jeans and chinos.

 

This may be a dumb question to most on here but how can I tell by looking at a pair of my Aldens if they are unlined? I have a pair of black cordovan boots that are white on the inside with what looks like no extra lining but im not sure. Would seem weird for a boot to be unlined I would think

Most think the commando soles are less dressy than the double leather sole.  If you were wearing these shoes with sport coat, tie and slacks, you might (or might not) think a double leather sole would be more appropriate than the commando sole.  for your intended use with jeans and chinos, either sole would be just fine and, in fact, if you think commando is less dressy than double leather, you might prefer commando over double leather for your use.

 

Double leather soles remain stiff, and thus need more break-in time, than commando soles.  People comment about this so I offer it for your consideration.   Personally, this consideration seems like  a miniscule tail -- say a pimple on a nub of a tail -- wagging a gigantic dog since, in my experience, the differential in break-in time is, perhaps, one hour of wear, if that, compared to decades of shoe life with either sole.     

 

If you live in a climate that gets snow and ice, commando has the decided advantage over double leather in that the commando sole allows you to safely walk in snow and ice whereas the double leather will cause you to slip and is flat dangerous in those conditions.  If you have a wintery climate and want to wear the shoes in wintery conditions, this can be very important.  

 

Finally, if you simply prefer the way one looks over the other, then get the one you like.   

 

If you have white leather on the inside, that white leather is the lining -- leather on the inside of the shoe that is separate from the cordovan on the outside.  Unlined cordovan is tan colored on the inside of the shoe -- the stained side of the cordovan hide is on the outside of the shoe, and the unstained side of that same piece of leather is on the inside of the shoe.  The cordovan Alden uses is from a Chicago, IL tannery named Horween.  Many here get a big kick out of it when they get an unlined cordovan shoe and Horween's stamp is visible -- for example, on the underside of the tongue.  

 

With whatever sole you get, the color 8 cordovan plain toe blucher is an iconic American shoe, that, with care, will last for decades and always be in style.  I hope you really enjoy them.

post #71670 of 122416

I'm just starting to dress up more, though my style is casual. I was just wondering what two shoes I should start out with? I know I really like the long wing blucher and I prefer brown over black.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Streetwear and Denim
This thread is locked  
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Streetwear and Denim › ***The official Alden thread *** Share enthusiasm, reviews, sizing, advice, and photos.