+100. Hem all the way. Looks a bit sloppy IMO.
Recent Images In This Thread
- brandAldentagged by SYSTEM, 7/31/11
- itemAlden Black Balmoral Shell Cordovan Cap Toe Oxfordtagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Black Shell Cordovan Plain Toetagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Chukkatagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Longwingtagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Indy Boot 405tagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Ravello Shell Long Wing Bluchertagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Sand Suede Flex-Welt Chukka Boottagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
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- topicShell Cordovantagged by violethour1951, 5/6/13
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The Definitive FAQ and/or Wiki on Alden Footwear
Last edited: 2/1/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: 379X LastLast edited: 4/4/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Hampton LastLast edited: 3/24/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Leydon LastLast edited: 3/24/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Van LastLast edited: 3/24/16
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***The official Alden thread *** Share enthusiasm, reviews, sizing, advice, and photos. - Page 3671post #55051 of 1224167/13/13 at 5:58pmpost #55052 of 1224167/13/13 at 6:06pmQuote:Originally Posted by Resistant
good morning - today I will try my first fit of the Hampton last on these color 8 caps. A larger toe box than I was expecting. If the guy who sold these is on the thread "thank you" the shine right out of the box is a very high quality hide. Unlike the plain toes I bought off www and must have been very low grade and black and never keep a shine for long. I was resistant enough about pairing a plain toe derby with a suit, but then to get such a blah finish to them was sad. I wear those very often casually and they love the rain.
wear in good health your cap toespost #55053 of 1224167/13/13 at 6:26pmpost #55054 of 1224167/13/13 at 6:26pmQuote:Originally Posted by zchen
Well I knew it was going to happen eventually. First pair, the Alden x Leffot Tan Suede Indy.
Next pair is probably going to be the classic indy 405 ( was debating between this and 403/J Crew 405, but decided that I wanted something other than CXL as I already have CXL boots from AE and Wolverine) and the Alden x J.Crew No.8 Captoe.
wear your suede boots in good healthpost #55055 of 1224167/13/13 at 6:28pmpost #55056 of 1224167/13/13 at 6:30pmpost #55057 of 1224167/13/13 at 6:33pmpost #55058 of 1224167/13/13 at 6:34pmQuote:
I searched the forum as it didn't occur to me that the Mac Method was world renowned. Took your advice and found the most amazing YouTube video. In addition to no longer feeling kind of silly about purchasing a dear bone, I am now truly optimistic about getting my trusty LHS's to pop. Thanks for the advice.post #55059 of 1224167/13/13 at 6:50pmQuote:
I don't know about length, but I believe the increase in width is 3/8" every half size, if I remember correctly.post #55060 of 1224167/13/13 at 6:51pmQuote:Originally Posted by borderline
It's been awhile since I posted this. I added some things since the last time. If you have any additions or recommendations, send the info in a PM for a future version.
Compiled by borderline using the combined wisdom of "The Official Alden Thread" on Styleforum and other web sources.
What are the different lasts and how do they fit relative to one another?
*See below for more sizing information
What do the different cordovan colors look like?
I feel like I'm buying too many Aldens, what can I do?
1) Give up, there is no hope.
2) Stop reading this thread
Why do they call it the Indy boot?
Are Alden shoes worth the price?
At the end of the day, the main benefits to Alden shoes are
1) High quality Horween leathers (Chromexcel, cordovan, and I assume suede) in unique colors
2) Willingness to work with retailers (many of whom work with customers) to develop special styles
3) Variety of well-fitting lasts
4) Recraft-ability (not necessarily by Alden, but by a variety of cobblers)
5) Decent price point compared to shoemakers that work with similar materials
6) Traditional aesthetic (high quality and stylish in a "handsome," "gentlemanly" way)
7) Alden shoes are pretty comfortable, can be very eye catching (cordovan, suede, etc tend to get tons of compliments) and overall enhance one's look.
The obvious downsides are
1) Poor quality control, particularly as they ramp production
2) Low / inconsistent availability
How should I break in my shoes?
Use “Mac’s Break-in Procedure”:
Shoes should be worn only on carpeting on three different days for a minimum of one hour in order to ascertain that the fit is proper.
What is the "pen trick"?
You put a pen where your foot joints are and then crease the shoe. This way the crease is set exactly where your joint bends and the crease is nice and even. People report varying levels of success with this, and it is generally thought to be more important for the PTB.
Will my cordovan shoes stretch?
The consensus is that cordovan stretches very little, if at all.
Care and Cleaning
How should I clean my cordovan shoes or boots?
Use the “Mac Method”:
1) Clean shoes with damp cloth
2) Brush vigorously with a horsehair brush
3) Buff with smooth cloth
4) Use wax after a minimum of fifteen wearings
Another cleaning/wax procedure is shown in this Leffot video, which recommends Saphir Renovateur and paste wax.
Some cleaning advice from Alden of Carmel
1. Do not use 'neutral' polish
2. Do not clean cordovan shoes using saddle soap
3. Do not attempt to clean cordovan shoes using petroleum distillates or cleaning fluids
4. Do not use any spray shines or aerosol type waterproofs
5. Do not attempt to dry wet shell cordovan shoes with heat or a heater. Wipe them dry, and allow them to dry naturally
6. Do not attempt to polish shell cordovan shoes while wet
Some cordovan cleaning advice from the Shoe Care thread
Some cleaning advice from user MarioImpemba
My shoes are dry and/or discolored in the creases. How can I fix this?
Alden SF recommends using a small amount of cream in the creases. This can moisturize the area and also bring up some of the natural color in the leather. Most people use either Saphir Renovateur or Venetian Shoe Cream.
My cordovan shoes got wet and there are tiny round marks or bubbles. What should I do?
1) Next time try the Alden Leather Defender
2) Brush them for awhile
3) Try some Renovateur
4) Try the deer bone treatment
5) Just wait, it will go away evenutally
My cordovan shoes has some white stuff on the leather. What do I do?
This is called "bloom". One method is to use a hair dryer, hold it 6" away from the shoe, and then after it cools down use a chamois cloth and buff it for awhile. It should go away.
Will Alden put a different sole on my shoes?
Alden Restoration will now only recraft your shoes using original materials. If you want to put on a different sole, your best bet may be B. Nelson.
Can I have speed hooks converted to eyelets?
B Nelson will do it for $12 per eyelet (not per pair). A standard Alden boot with 4 pairs of speed hooks would therefore run $96. The top four eyelets would be off-centered with the bottom five, which is often done to compensate for the oblong size of the speed hooks.
Here's an example: http://www.styleforum.net/t/85589/the-official-alden-thread/18000#post_4958968
I want new shoelaces for my Indy Boots. What are my options?
1) Alden will mail you a pair if you ask. http://www.aldenshoe.com/
2) The Alden Madison store will sell you waxed laces for ~$6. http://aldenmadisonny.com/
3) Red Wing model 9011 will work, request them here http://www.redwingheritage.com/laces/
LWB: Longwing blucher
SWB: Shortwing blucher
PTB: Plain toe blucher
LHS: Leisure hand sewn (a loafer)
A video by Epaulet about the Alden factory
Cordovan: A Photo Gallery of Some of Mac's Shoes
Online Purchasing Options
Leather Soul http://www.leathersoulhawaii.com/category/brands/alden/
The Shoe Mart http://www.theshoemart.com/alden-shoes/bt-ald.html
Alden Shop http://www.aldenshop.com/
Sherman Brothers http://www.shermanbrothers.com/brand...S&BrandCode=AL
J. Crew http://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/s...enForJCrew.jsp
Ben Silver http://www.bensilver.com/Alden-American-Shoes.html
Moulded Shoe http://mouldedshoe.com/alden1.html
Renners Fine Boots & Shoes http://www.rennersbootsshoes.com/aldenshoes1.html
Sky Valet http://www.skyvalet1.com/Alden.aspx
Frans Boone Store https://www.fransboonestore.com/en/store/brands/alden.html
The Bureau http://www.thebureaubelfast.com/shop/brand/58/alden/
Alden of Carmel http://www.alden-of-carmel.com/index.cfm/shoes.htm
J. Gilbert http://www.jgilbertfootwear.com/?q=node/90
Need Supply http://needsupply.com/
Tres Bien http://www.tresbienshop.com/
Anecdotal sizing information:
I find the Modified last (for my foot) is wider than the Barrie. 9D Modified fits me great, while 9D in Barrie is a snug fit, the E width for me in Barrie is too wide. I find the Trubalance last to be a little bit bigger overall last to the Barrie, whereas the Modified has a more tapered mid foot under the arch, opening up to a wider forefoot. (NewYorkRanger)
Normal size is 10.5D, I take a 10D in Barrie and 10.5E in Leydon (borderline)
I wear a 9 D in the Barrie and i've also tried a 9E in the Barrie. I won some of each and wear them both. The 9D is a little snug and the 9E is a little loose. I have a pair of 9.5 D leydon lasted LWB and they fit great. I went with a 9.5D on the grant.
9.5 E in the Dalton and most all AE's
9D in the truebalance (almost perfect fit)
9.5 D in grant ( perfect fit)
9.5 D in leydon (perfect fit)
I wear 6.5D Barrie and the 7D Grants fits well for me (actually 6.5E also works fine). (dsmivtr)
If you size down 1/2 for barrie (say 10E to 9.5E), don't try to size down 1 and go wider (to 9EE) (kippy).
the best way to determine fit and comfort is to ensure that the ball of your foot is at the widest part of the shoes. some people may have short toes and some people may have longer toes but using that area as a reference point has always worked well for me. Also there is just a feel when you put on a pair of shoes if it feels slightly too large or slightly too tight. If you think it fits you well and is not causing any pain or slipping off when you lace them, then they are likely the right size.(MiniW)post #55061 of 1224167/13/13 at 7:05pmQuote:Originally Posted by Shawnc
I searched the forum as it didn't occur to me that the Mac Method was world renowned. Took your advice and found the most amazing YouTube video. In addition to no longer feeling kind of silly about purchasing a dear bone, I am now truly optimistic about getting my trusty LHS's to pop. Thanks for the advice.
Try not to overcomplicate the procedure. It really is as a simple as:
Wipe down with damp cloth
Brush rigorously with horsehair brush
Buff with cloth
Use paste wax only when necessary (to cover up a scuff or add color to a faded pair)
A lot of people add unnecessary steps. Uncle Mac has great looking shoes that he has owned for years/decades that have never seen wax/polish/product.post #55062 of 1224167/13/13 at 7:12pmpost #55063 of 1224167/13/13 at 7:32pmpost #55064 of 1224167/13/13 at 7:40pmpost #55065 of 1224167/13/13 at 7:42pm
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