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***The official Alden thread *** Share enthusiasm, reviews, sizing, advice, and photos. - Page 1979  

post #29671 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmivtr View Post

I think there are a number of factors such as quality and quantity of runs. I assume Alden has larger orders and need much of shell in the quality they expect. However, other orders such as the Alfred Sargent MTO bal boot (cognac/cigar/dark brown) or the double monk (whiskey) only had runs 6 or 7 per run. Alden may need 10 times and it may not be cost effective to do fractions of the total run hence the delay. Just a hypothesis and really don't know...

Can you elaborate what 6-7 per run mean? I'm curious to know why Ravello/Cigar is in short supply compared to Black or Burgundy?
post #29672 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by sstomcat View Post

Can you elaborate what 6-7 per run mean? I'm curious to know why Ravello/Cigar is in short supply compared to Black or Burgundy?

It seems to me that...

A lot of the European producers are only producing 6-7 pairs per run, so they only need 6-7 shells for any given order. Plus, the European guys are also doing one-off MTO orders of one shoe. Very few of the European shoemakers seem to offer "stock" rare shell shoes.

Now Alden, on the other hand, has three Alden branded stores that stock rare cordovan colors, plus seemingly dozens of independent retailers globally that like to have rare colors occasionally. In a rare color for example Alden DC may like to get two or three of every size, so that is over 20-30 pairs per run.

Rare cordovan are less plentiful than black or color 8 because the ligher dyes require hides with fewer imperfections
post #29673 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by sstomcat View Post

Can you elaborate what 6-7 per run mean? I'm curious to know why Ravello/Cigar is in short supply compared to Black or Burgundy?

A few of us (SF members) collaborated with A Fine Pair of Shoes, a British shoe company, to have some MTO shoes done. Unlike Alden, the minimum is only 6 pairs (which is MUCH less). I guess when I said '6-7 per run' I meant the number of shoes per order. It is easier getting shell for that amount compared to 16 or 20 if obtained all at the same time.

For your other question, my understanding is the quality of shell needs to be better for lighter colors because any blemish will be much more recognizable juxtaposed to #8 or black where imperfections may be less of an issue.

If you're interested we have a MTO cognac (dark brown/cigar/whatever you call it) shell balmoral boot order that have a couple slots left. smile.gif
post #29674 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmivtr View Post

A few of us (SF members) collaborated with A Fine Pair of Shoes, a British shoe company, to have some MTO shoes done. Unlike Alden, the minimum is only 6 pairs (which is MUCH less). I guess when I said '6-7 per run' I meant the number of shoes per order. It is easier getting shell for that amount compared to 16 or 20 if obtained all at the same time.
For your other question, my understanding is the quality of shell needs to be better for lighter colors because any blemish will be much more recognizable juxtaposed to #8 or black where imperfections may be less of an issue.
If you're interested we have a MTO cognac (dark brown/cigar/whatever you call it) shell balmoral boot order that have a couple slots left. smile.gif

Or a spectacular Benson single monk strap...As seen here. 2 slots left, so get them while its hot.

http://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk/products/alfred-sargent-exclusive-benson-monk-in-cognac-cordovan-mto
post #29675 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcibiades View Post

Now Alden, on the other hand, has three Alden branded stores s

I believe they have 2, SF and DC; NY is independently owned but exclusively sells Alden. Don't mean to be picky but the NY store also experiences some of the shortage difficulties.
post #29676 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmivtr View Post

I believe they have 2, SF and DC; NY is independently owned but exclusively sells Alden. Don't mean to be picky but the NY store also experiences some of the shortage difficulties.

True, they do experience shortage issues, but my point was that they are continuously reodering stock rare shell shoes (chukkas, PTBs, LWB, LHS, etc), so that just limtis the overall supply of rare cordovan for custom MTOs. EG, AS, Carmina, etc don't really have that issue as far as I know
post #29677 of 122416
Question - If I wear a 10.5 D suede 904 wingtip on the Hampton last, would it make sense to go up to a 10.5 E on the grant last for a cordovan boot? To leave room for thicker socks, and as the leather won't stretch. http://www.theshoemart.com/alden-mens_cap_toe_boot_shell_cordovan_black_shell/pvc-ald-mxsbd-4065_ald_m_cap_toe_boot_shell_cordovan.html

My foot is fairly brick like and I think the Hampton last worked because the uppers were so supple. I'm worried because D widths often pinch my little toe and are too tight across the vamp/ball of my foot. Yet Alden sizing seems generous...

The only dealer in my city has told me they are no longer going to carry the brand due to long delays in restocking & customer orders.
post #29678 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcibiades View Post

Rare cordovan are less plentiful than black or color 8 because the ligher dyes require hides with fewer imperfections

Wait, lighter dyes? And all this time I thought ravello and whiskey were the hides from blonde horses!
post #29679 of 122416
post #29680 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by HorseHide View Post

Wait, lighter dyes? And all this time I thought ravello and whiskey were the hides from blonde horses!

Ravello:
263
post #29681 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmivtr View Post

I know Tom Austin used to have a special make up of the cigar PTB on the Plaza... Now that was a keeper.

The Beale's are back in town....

UNIONMADE GOODS
post #29682 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcibiades View Post


Ravello:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

263

 

 

What a majestic beast. It's a shame all I see is this:

 

cordovan-leather-from-horween.jpg

 

 

Perhaps these byproducts, too... (Click to show)

full_1294327443horsemeat.jpgglue.jpg

post #29683 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by lee_44106 View Post

How come European shoe manufactures like EG, Carmina, Alfred Sargent...etc have no problem sourcing non #8 shell cordovans from Horween?

Like the seemingly never ending supply of C&J made RL Marlows?
post #29684 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndroFan View Post

Alright, this is just driving me nuts.  I've looked everywhere for any information about this model number...trying to determine whether they're shell or not.  Anyone know?  #22220 (above that, it says 6R28XO22 5).  That in the pics that looks like microcreasing is most likely dust from them sitting around shog%5B1%5D.gif.  I actually don't think there's any microcreasing; they don't look like they've been worn enough to crease/roll.  Any help appreciated. 

350x467px-LL-c6a4a107_102_6383.jpeg
350x263px-LL-c6d899ff_102_6389.jpeg

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
350x467px-LL-c90b7917_102_6387.jpeg
350x263px-LL-0bf501ef_102_6380.jpeg

This is definitely the number for the cigar NST on the Aberdeen last. Looking at a pair as I type this.
post #29685 of 122416
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr chorizo View Post


The Beale's are back in town....
UNIONMADE GOODS

thanks for the heads up bro

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