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- brandAldentagged by SYSTEM, 7/31/11
- itemAlden Black Balmoral Shell Cordovan Cap Toe Oxfordtagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Black Shell Cordovan Plain Toetagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Chukkatagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Longwingtagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Indy Boot 405tagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Ravello Shell Long Wing Bluchertagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Sand Suede Flex-Welt Chukka Boottagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Snuff Suede Flex-Welt Chukka Boottagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- categoryFootweartagged by SYSTEM, 7/20/11More
- topicShell Cordovantagged by violethour1951, 5/6/13
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***The official Alden thread *** Share enthusiasm, reviews, sizing, advice, and photos. - Page 6915post #103711 of 1224162/21/15 at 6:39pmpost #103712 of 1224162/21/15 at 6:52pmpost #103713 of 1224162/21/15 at 6:56pm
OK Gentlemen, since I started this - I wanted to take a few minutes to post a thorough response; to do that I needed to get the kids to bed... so here we go.
>> Insert the usual BS disclaimer here so nobody gets their feeling hurt; additionally YMMV <<
Disclosure - I have quite a few Aldens, almost all shell, in mostly rare colors, my preference is boots. I don't post much but am connected to the board and a few regulars; I spend my days close to a 80 year old master leather crafter, we talk leather, a lot and he knows his stuff.
The shell is a natural Horween shell, that came to me from Horween directly - it is the real deal and the same stuff our shoes are made of. Despite what you make have heard about the "Alden Finish" - it looks remarkably like the "Horween Finish". That is, there is no visual distinction between the glossy sheen of this shell, and any of my Alden shoes boots. An acrylic semi permeable finsh has been applied to this shell, just like our Alden shoes.
On my boots I use mostly Saphir products, but own a lot of stuff. On Whiskey or Ravello I use VSC or Renovateur (I will refer to this as Reno from this point forward), and on #8, Cigar and Black I use the corresponding Saphir Cordovan color. What also may come as a shock, 1-2x per year I use Saphir Dubbin Graisse on all flex point of my cordovan shoes and boots, all colors. This is, IMO, the best nourishing creme I have applied, I use is regularly in everything. I use is almost exclusively on my CXL boots...
I have burnished my whiskey shoes (toes and heels) using multiple combinations of what I have. So, going into this discussion I already had a good feel for what does darken and what does not darken our Whiskey Shell Cordovan.
So the product line up - what was what?
This picture was taken after five minutes or so of applying all the products.
So what worked best? Well, depends on how how we define "worked".
How does it absorb - let's define this as which product penetrated the surface quickly and did not simply push around the surface of the shell.
The Best - Saphir 1925, this is a shea butter based creme and it penetrated quickly and the color was spot on.
Almost As Good - VSC and Saphir Fawn
The Worst - Saphir Reno - this stuff really just pushed around the surface and didn't penetrate the leather like I expected it to. I was shock at this actually, there is a reason it is the big blob.
What Was Left Behind - Quit simply, after a brushing and a buff, could you see a film?
Excellent - VSC, Saphir Fawn, Alden Tan - after buffing these three, there was no detectable film where they were applied.
Not Good - Saphir 1925, not really made for this product, but what it left behind will take some serious effort to remove.
Surprise of the Group - Saphir Reno. This left a film on the shell, and dulled it where it was applied. I was a bit shocked by this, honestly; I was expecting VSC to do this, but it simply was not the case - tough to photo, but this shows what it looks like.
Discoloration - What product left a visible change in the shell after buffing and 10 hours of sitting.
Only one - Alden Tan. This is the stuff, IMO, to avoid if you don't want your whiskey shell to darken. Pretty much exactly what I recalled from my burnishing project last year.
The picture color is off because the pictures are taken with indoor lighting and a different camera.
Of the products tested, only Alden Tan left a discoloration (darkening) on the Shell.
Saphir Cordovan Fawn is perfectly fine to use on Whiskey Shell, Saphir Natural Cordovan Creme would be better to ensure no changes.
VSC, despite smelling like a chemical factory and leaving a nasty film on your fingers does look like it does a better job than I expected...
Saphir Reno - it is now out of my Shell rotation.
So what will my regime for Whiskey and Ravello shell be?
Saphir Netural Cordovan Creme, VSC at times, and Saphir Dubbin Grasse on the parts of the boot / shoe that flex; applied 1-2x per year.
Edited by Buckeye Nation - 2/21/15 at 7:50pmpost #103714 of 1224162/21/15 at 7:36pmpost #103715 of 1224162/21/15 at 7:38pmVery interesting stuff BN. Thanks for posting it!
I am very much a "less is more" person when it comes to applying stuff to my shell. Essentially I will use VSC or Neutral Saphir creme very rarely. I also use the appropriate colour creme on scratches.
So far so good for me.post #103716 of 1224162/21/15 at 7:43pmpost #103717 of 1224162/21/15 at 7:44pmQuote:
All non stock sizes typically requires 100% pre-pay. It has for my orders from Leffot. I'm fine with that requirement.
Stevepost #103718 of 1224162/21/15 at 8:02pmQuote:Originally Posted by MT1982
I don't know enough about shell to say whether or not that'd go away, but wanted to offer some other food for thought. That general area is where you'll get creases from walking, right? So even if it doesn't go away it may be less noticeable due to the shell rolls that develop as you wear the shoes.
Thanks.. also to @mdubs @Watchman1 @Burzan for your thoughts.. In the first world problems department I also scored some Whiskey chukkas (with some black spots / I understand these light shells will have character!) so going to sit on the PTBs for another couple weeks before making the decision. Also have Whiskey wingtip boots coming so more reason probably to let the PTBs go (and feel lucky to be landing these make ups!).post #103719 of 1224162/21/15 at 8:03pmpost #103720 of 1224162/21/15 at 8:09pmpost #103721 of 1224162/21/15 at 8:11pm
I'd be down for that make up, if a vendor is willing to make it =).
I believe he's talking about the color 8 tanker with antique edge and brass eyelets, the final product of inno8chiro's conversion project.
-Dpost #103722 of 1224162/21/15 at 8:13pmQuote:
Thanks for the memory jog Dan.
Ahem... @chrisefipost #103723 of 1224162/21/15 at 8:16pmQuote:
i prefer to take care of my own shoes.
i'm fairly busy, full time job + part time side gig, but i enjoy brushing when i watch sports on tv. nothing like brushing early in the morning while catching a bpl match.post #103724 of 1224162/21/15 at 8:37pmQuote:
great project, thanks for sharing bn. i've given up on reno and almost everything else. if the shoes need it, i use a little natural alden boot cream.Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
great make up mike. nice pants as well.Quote:
thanks mike.Quote:Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
thank you sir. i copied the bar lacing from uncle mac.Quote:
what did you decide to do? i may have sent them back.post #103725 of 1224162/21/15 at 9:32pm
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