If you do a search, you will find endless discussions of this, some approaching the talmudic in their level of esoteric detail. Briefly, the acid test is whether a pattern (the paper template that determines the shape of a garment) is drawn one at a time, for an individual (that's bespoke) or if a stock or pre-existing pattern is modified to better fit a particular customer (made-to-measure). Â With both bespoke and MTM, you should be able to choose any cloth and any style (SB or DB, 2-button or 3-button, etc.) or detail (slant or straight pockets, one or two vents, etc.). Â The true differences between the bespoke and MTM have most to do with the precision of the fit, and the subtleties of the silhouette. Â This applies to suits and coats and trousers and shirts. The case of shoes is slightly different. Â A truly bespoke shoe is made on a last (a wooden model of the foot) that is carved de novo for an individual client. Â Some top bespoke shoemakers (e.g., Foster's in London and Lobb in Paris) call this process "made-to-measure", which is mildly confusing. Â There are also firms that modify stock lasts to change the fit for individual customers. Â These modifications can range in extent from slight to extensive. Â Some call this process bespoke, others use other terms, and still others do it but have no name for it. Â Finally, there are stock specials or special orders. Â This process allows you choose the leather and color you want and design the style of the shoe yourself. Â But the shoe will be made on a stock last, with no adjustments to the fit.