End of rant. --- Manton
End of yours, maybe. Beginning of mine. The sleeve plackets are not acceptable
. From what I have been told, Simon, in the NY T&A shop, is a courteous fellow. I believe that if you shot him an e with the photos attached, he would want the shirt returned. Shirtmaven pretty much explained the chemical thing ... shirt fabrics have quite a number of processes performed upon them prior to reaching the shirtmaker. One minor addition: Most mills (weavers) do not 'finish' their own cloth. There are usually three firms required for making cloth: 1] The Spinner - who converts the raw cotton into yarn; 2] The Weaver (mill) which weaves the yarn into unfinished fabric; and 3] The Dyer and/or Finisher who: A] in the case of yarn-dyed fabrics (those which the weaver makes with colored yarns) - the finisher Sanforizes, pre-shrinks, and readies for shipping OR B] in the case of 'griege (grey) goods' the Finisher/Dyer dyes them to the final color before Sanforizing and finishing. This may be easier to understand:
As for the washing thing, it goes as follows with ONLY the better small shirtmakers: Fact 1] Each shirtmaker allows for a certain shrinkage percentage. Let us theorize this to be 1%. Each client's pattern is therefore made 1% larger. Fact 2] Shirtmakers, either by trial-and-error or through judicious testing, know the shrinkage percentages of each of the fabrics with which they work. Example 1] Let us first propose that the shirtmaker is using a fabric which shrinks 1%. Having already allowed for this in the creation of the pattern, washing prior to cutting is unnecessary. The majority of higher quality European broadcloths fall into this 1% category. Example 2] In this example, the fabric selected is one which shrinks 3%. Through various methods of controlled washing and drying, the shirtmaker will remove 2% of the shrinkage leaving 1% shrinkage for after making. Most higher quality European voiles fall into this category. Example 3] In the final example, the shirtmaker is using a silk, linen, or wool fabric. Subsequent to washing and drying a number of times, the shirtmaker makes an appointment with his priest, rabbi, mullah ... or his wife. At the appointed time, he offers the necessary prayers to whichever deity he believes controls his destiny, bows humbly toward Mecca, and then proceeds to make the shirt in normal fashion. Hopefully, after delivery, he won't receive a call from the client thanking him for the beautiful shirt he made for the client's 12 year old son. For those who believe that the shirts they are receiving from their shirtmaker are laundered prior to shipping, my only advice would be to ask. If the answer is yes, be skeptical. Look for wrinkles in areas which are difficult to iron when your shirts arrive. If there aren't any ... your shirt wasn't washed. Why? Ironing a non-laundered shirt can be accomplished in roughly 4 minutes. Wash it and that time increases to about one-half hour. At today's average labor costs, that will add thirty-fifty bucks to the retail price of the shirt. jcusey
If Alex Kabbaz is to be believed (and I'm not sure that he is, given that picture of him that Chuck posted yesterday ), it's not hard at all. It's dismaying that just about nobody makes the effort anymore.
Aside from Humpf
and certain four letter retorts I'll save for a PM, if I have said that I was either in error ... or following the bourbon advice in the Black Suit thread. The plaid shirt in the photos is one of the more difficult fabrics to match when making sleeve plackets. Not something I would want my six-year old son to try. Conrad would probably be able to do it, though. He's older. He's eight.