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Fully canvas, lapel rolls and vents

post #1 of 45
Thread Starter 
I'm going to buy a few more suits in the next few weeks to replace some of my wardrobe. I wanted to stick with the full canvas ones, since reading about what that is and its benefits. Cost is less important to me than durability, style, and crisp appearance (if that makes sense). First, who generally makes full canvassed suits? Are Zegnas full canvas? Brioni? etc. Nobody really says if the suit is full canvas or not, so it's hard for me to tell if it is. Is there some way to identify that when looking at a jacket? Second, is it possible to find full canvas suits that also have vents, or are the two completely unrelated? I prefer a jacket with vents, they seem to hold their shape better, although I could be totally mistaken here. Third, I have seen some Brioni jackets where the "lapel roll" makes the 3rd button on the jacket look unusable. Can you use the 3rd or top button on a jacket with a pronounced lapel roll without somehow damaging the lapel roll or negating it? I really like the look of the Brioni jackets and blazers I've seen, and they all seem to have that roll, but I like to button my top button. For some reason I think it just looks cleaner and less sloppy. Do you have any comments, Manton, since you appear to be one of the more authorative members of the forum?
post #2 of 45
I am not nearly the expert on various makers that others are.  I am sure you will get a lot of responses.  For the record, Brionis are fully canvased.  Zegna makes several lines, and I'm not sure all of them are.  Others will know for sure.  As for indentifying a fully canvased coat, read johnnynorman3's posts near the top of this thread: http://66.170.193.77/cgi-bin....;t=3408 The canvas is in the interior front; vents are in the back.  There is no corellation. The button stance you describe is called a "roll through".  It is generally a bad idea to try to button the top button on such coats.  Try it on and see.  If the chest and lapel are not too stressed, and it doesn't cause any breaks or ripples, go for it.
post #3 of 45
Help for old guy with failing brain: 5-6 months ago I posted a list of who is fused, canvassed, lined, etc. Anyone recall where? Here or AAAC and which thread?
post #4 of 45
Fully canvassed jacket-manufacturing companies: Attolini Brioni Kiton Isaia (the top two brands) Chester Barrie (or whatever the derivate suits are called now) E. Zegna and Zegna (Napoli) Couture (not the Soft or Z Zegna ranges, though) Oxxford Canali St. Andrews (makes several house labels and suits for RLPL) Belvest Corneliani (not the suits they make for RL Polo, they are semi-canvassed) Cantarelli There is more, but that's what I recall off the top of my head Jon. Alex, you'll be old when you forget how to make a shirt.
post #5 of 45
Thread Starter 
Hey Manton, thanks for the great link. I found a site showing the various tie knots and discovered that what had been described to me (and what I always use) as a "Double Windsor Knot" was actually a Prince Albert knot. I always use the Prince Albert, is this appropriate for formal dinners and business meetings? My ties always look like this (I like my knots as fat as possible):
post #6 of 45
Thread Starter 
Thanks imagewis.. Excellent..
post #7 of 45
Thread Starter 
A few "rules" questions, and I will leave you alone Manton: Is it appropriate to leave the bottom button on a vest unbuttoned? Can I leave my jacket unbuttoned on a 3-piece suit? I like the slim look it gives me, but have noticed it also makes me look like a pimp or something. Can I button just the middle button on a 3-button jacket? Thanks guys..
post #8 of 45
I would say, that tie doesn't need the Prince Albert knot, but if you like it, it's fine. It's not likely to cause you any trouble.
post #9 of 45
(1) Yes -- required on most vests (2) Yes -- though perhaps not ideal (3) Yes -- best look, IMO.
post #10 of 45
Thread Starter 
johnny - i'd have to agree. I've noticed that when I try to button the top one, it pinches my chest together, because my shoulders are a little too wide for my chest size or something. I can't stand the way it seems to pull my shoulders together and make me feel cramped. Just wasn't sure if it was acceptable.
post #11 of 45
Quote:
Is it appropriate to leave the bottom button on a vest unbuttoned?
More than that, it is required.
Quote:
Can I leave my jacket unbuttoned on a 3-piece suit? I like the slim look it gives me, but have noticed it also makes me look like a pimp or something.
Not recommended, except for the portly. But no one is going to be a stickler about this either. You are much more likely to get a hard time simply for wearing the vest in the first place. (Because you look like a young guy, and vests on young guys upset some people.)
Quote:
Can I button just the middle button on a 3-button jacket?
Yes.
post #12 of 45
Quote:
(1) Yes -- required on most vests (2) Yes -- though perhaps not ideal (3) Yes -- best look, IMO.
Regarding number 3, I have a RLPL linen 3-button SB suit with patch pockets, quarter lined that does not have any lapel roll to the middle button, thus I rarely leave the top button opened, as it does not look as good unbuttoned as it does buttoned. Of course, often times I just leave the jacket unbuttoned. Jon.
post #13 of 45
Manton, I am young, but oftentimes get compliments regarding my vests. Although that was in an environment that called for day in and day out business wear. Jon.
post #14 of 45
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Not recommended, except for the portly. But no one is going to be a stickler about this either. You are much more likely to get a hard time simply for wearing the vest in the first place. (Because you look like a young guy, and vests on young guys upset some people.)
I am 30. Is that too young for a vest? I like the conservative, tight appearance it gives a suit. Why would people not like that? I think it looks clean and professional, it seems more disciplined and formal than without. I often wonder if it is appropriate for business however. I am not portly, so I will avoid the open jacket. I wish we had good bespoke tailors here in Seattle. It would greatly help with things. I want to pick up a bespoke suit or two, but don't have time right now for flying to Manhattan, London, HK or Milan. That's why I had asked about fully canvassed suits, I figure if I can get a quality MTM and have my current tailor touch it up, than maybe it will be close in quality and fit. Thanks for your assistance, guys. It is greatly appreciated.
post #15 of 45
Quote:
I am 30.  Is that too young for a vest?  I like the conservative, tight appearance it gives a suit.  Why would people not like that?  I think it looks clean and professional, it seems more disciplined and formal than without.  I often wonder if it is appropriate for business however.  I am not portly, so I will avoid the open jacket. I wish we had good bespoke tailors here in Seattle.  It would greatly help with things.  I want to pick up a bespoke suit or two, but don't have time right now for flying to Manhattan, London, HK or Milan.  That's why I had asked about fully canvassed suits, I figure if I can get a quality MTM and have my current tailor touch it up, than maybe it will be close in quality and fit. Thanks for your assistance, guys.  It is greatly appreciated.
WW Chan visits Seattle on their US tours.   Chan's trip schedule
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