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Lodger: new London shop - made-to-measure

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
I came across this in the latest issue of Monocle.
https://authenticate.monocle.com/ase...ver=monaselect
http://www.lodgerfootwear.com/
Just round the corner from Savile Row, apparently.
post #2 of 17
I don't know anything about Lodger, but it's a shame that Moncole is such a pretty magazine so obnoxiously wrong about everything.
post #3 of 17
I did pay a visit and a good nose-around to the newly opened "˜Lodger' shoe shop at 15c Clifford Street, London W1.
(Clifford Street connects Bond Street with Savile Row.)

The shop was due to open today and they did. Admittedly the electricians and shop fitters had to do their last bits and packages got delivered, but the shop looked nice, the merchandise was on display and I had a good chat with Nathan Brown the proprietor and Annejkh the shoe designer (Cordwainer's College and Royal College of Art in London).

Now those two are shoe-nuts, who are passionate about shoes in general and their range in particular. Most shoe shops just sell what manufacturers offer in their wholesale range. Not 'Lodger', all the lasts and the shoe designs are their own; the English range gets produced in Northamptonshire and the Italian rage near Naples. The designs are basically classic, but there is always a contemporary touch about them as well. It is not "˜fashionable' with the extra-long and snouty last a number of today's designers subscribe to. The "˜twists' are less obvious then the skulls and crossbones of "˜Barker Black', or the flashiness of Tom Ford's current range. Price wise, at GBP 550.00, they are where I expected them to be: similar to EG or G&G or JLP (classic range). But they include a fully lasted shoe tree within the price. Those shoe trees are nice, they come from the same source, where most London bespoke shoemakers get their trees from.

I believe at present the English shoes come on a round and an extra-round last for the country-type shoes, the Italian range is built over a chisel-toe last. (Again, compared with a number of current Italian shoes, that last is quite subdued.)

The website is due to go on line at midnight tonight and there is also a blog, giving useful information not only about the shop and it's range, but also about shoemaking in general.

http://www.lodgerfootwear.com/

http://www.gentlemanscorner.com/

I wish them all the best and I hope the shop will succeed. London needs shoe shops where the staff is passionate and knowledgeable about shoes.

(Double posting with AskAndy
post #4 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post
I did pay a visit and a good nose-around to the newly opened "˜Lodger' shoe shop at 15c Clifford Street, London W1.
(Clifford Street connects Bond Street with Savile Row.)

The shop was due to open today and they did. Admittedly the electricians and shop fitters had to do their last bits and packages got delivered, but the shop looked nice, the merchandise was on display and I had a good chat with Nathan Brown the proprietor and Annejkh the shoe designer (Cordwainer's College and Royal College of Art in London).

Now those two are shoe-nuts, who are passionate about shoes in general and their range in particular. Most shoe shops just sell what manufacturers offer in their wholesale range. Not 'Lodger', all the lasts and the shoe designs are their own; the English range gets produced in Northamptonshire and the Italian rage near Naples. The designs are basically classic, but there is always a contemporary touch about them as well. It is not "˜fashionable' with the extra-long and snouty last a number of today's designers subscribe to. The "˜twists' are less obvious then the skulls and crossbones of "˜Barker Black', or the flashiness of Tom Ford's current range. Price wise, at GBP 550.00, they are where I expected them to be: similar to EG or G&G or JLP (classic range). But they include a fully lasted shoe tree within the price. Those shoe trees are nice, they come from the same source, where most London bespoke shoemakers get their trees from.

I believe at present the English shoes come on a round and an extra-round last for the country-type shoes, the Italian range is built over a chisel-toe last. (Again, compared with a number of current Italian shoes, that last is quite subdued.)

The website is due to go on line at midnight tonight and there is also a blog, giving useful information not only about the shop and it's range, but also about shoemaking in general.

http://www.lodgerfootwear.com/

http://www.gentlemanscorner.com/

I wish them all the best and I hope the shop will succeed. London needs shoe shops where the staff is passionate and knowledgeable about shoes.

(Double posting with AskAndy

What did you think of the "build" quality?
post #5 of 17
They have a "tour" of "their" English factory: http://www.martinphelps.com/lodgerslides/ Must say the pictures look good. Stuff on their site made me think of a factory that has been discussed. They have before launch of their own site been colaborating with some others, Realrealgenuine.com see the rough brogue boots: http://www.realrealgenuine.com/Produ...categoryId=109 apparently made @ Sargent ... No mention of sale on Lodgers site though ...
post #6 of 17
Went into Lodger today for the first time and had a good look around and a chat with Nathan. The shoes look nice, some designs work better to my eye than others. They were very helpful and also very happy to answer questions. The English shoes are made for them by Sargent and there was no attempt to claim otherwise. The finishing looked of a very high standard indeed and the waists and soles on the high end shoes looked very good indeed.
As for the Italian range all are Blake stitched and hand finished, some lovely patinas. The lasted trees are a nice touch as is the offer to make a shoe from the RTW collection in other width fittings at no extra cost if so required.
I like the shoe of the month idea too, even if it is a little gimmicky it does mean that there are always new designs popping up in addition to the RTW line.
post #7 of 17
I love these guys shoes, from their website anyway. I'd definitely like to own a pair when I get some extra cash.
post #8 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
it's a shame that Moncole is such a pretty magazine so obnoxiously wrong about everything.

Are they obnoxiously wrong about everything or are their recommendations just not in line with your tastes?
post #9 of 17
The italian contemporary looks very nice, but at 550 pound a pair, Santoni FAM's are a more attractive option
post #10 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by triniboy27 View Post
Are they obnoxiously wrong about everything or are their recommendations just not in line with your tastes?
I agree with mafoofan somewhat. I wouldn't go so far as saying they are wrong about everything but most of their articles are very shallow and some are down right amateurish.
post #11 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by triniboy27 View Post
Are they obnoxiously wrong about everything or are their recommendations just not in line with your tastes?

Quote:
Originally Posted by laphroaig View Post
I agree with mafoofan somewhat. I wouldn't go so far as saying they are wrong about everything but most of their articles are very shallow and some are down right amateurish.

It has nothing to do with their recommendations in clothing; it's their political and social opinions that are downright ridiculous. They'd have you believe the U.S. is a fascist third world country.
post #12 of 17
Why can't more companies, like Vass or Lobb (hint hint), have pleasant and useful websites like that?

E-commerce
post #13 of 17
http://www.lodgerfootwear.com/wear/how/index/id/443/ Their style gallery is a welcome idea.
post #14 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by greekonomist View Post
Why can't more companies, like Vass or Lobb (hint hint), have pleasant and useful websites like that?

E-commerce

+1

What is it with clothing/shoe companies and their poor (or non-existing) websites? Lodger's website is an excellent example of how a simple but informative website can look like.
post #15 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
It has nothing to do with their recommendations in clothing; it's their political and social opinions that are downright ridiculous. They'd have you believe the U.S. is a fascist third world country.

It's edited by a Canadian.
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