Well, in my view, my principle interest in having a bespoke suit is to have a suit made to flatter me: the material, the proportion and the silhouette. I would choose a tailor for his reputation, house style, one having a specific ethic, view and standard. I wouldn't presume to tell an experienced tailor how wide to make the lapels nor where to place the buttons on a double breasted for example. I would trust that his eye is better than mine. I would paint a picture for him of what I wanted to achieve, the big picture. If I wanted crescent pockets, for example, I would discuss the matter with him and be guided by him. If his view was that they would not be suitable, for a this particular suit, I would respect, and take, his view. But generally, if I have chosen my tailor well, and know my taste and his style well, I would be guided throughout by his ethic and rely on his taste and design sense. A good tailor will not only sew you a suit but gently guide you and steer you right throughout to get the best result. And that's why you want to look for an artist, and listen to his advice, and not someone who only operates a sewing machine. It's a pleasure to work with a tailor with strong views and standards and a great learning experience as well.