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Cool furniture, design objects and desiderata - Page 225

post #3361 of 8662
Originally Posted by Douglas View Post

This is not that cool, but I think I am going to pick up a pair of Ikea Patrik chairs for my new office.

They're obviously a clumsy rip-off of the swan chair, and honestly I'm not in love with them, but they're $150 apiece. I'm not paying $8500 for a pair of seats in my office in a manufacturing company. I'm explicitly trying not to make a statement in my workplace.

If anyone knows of alternative very inexpensive chairs, I'm all ears, but it will be hard to turn down the price tag on the Ikea.

What about a Maarten Van Severen .03 or .05 Cahir from Vitra. You´ll get a pair for 700-1000USD if you shop around and they are extremely comfortable. I have an 03 on wheels with arm rests as an office chair and kitted my old conference room out with black 03´s
post #3362 of 8662

Packman lamp

Lobster trap

Captain Kirk

post #3363 of 8662
I'll take a pair of those Oeil sconces.
post #3364 of 8662
Building a dining table for my sister and her fiancée as a wedding gift and house warming gift. Picked out two book matched white ash slabs for the top and nice straight grained white ash for the base. The table will be very simple and functional, with strong joinery and hopefully built to last a lifetime. One of the features will be ease in ability to knock it down.


This is one of the small stretchers and here I'm bringing them down to thickness with the router plane. There are many ways to do that, but the router plane is easy and repeatable. Some prefer to do it with a chisel and others prefer to leave them right as they are cut off the saw. These tenons will go through the leg and be fitted with wedges, they will stand proud of the leg by 1/8", so I wanted a nice surface finish on the sides.

After this I will cut the shoulders square with a shoulder plane and then finish the stretchers with a finish plane (no sanding).

These will later be cut for keyed half lap joints where they intersect with the large stretcher (shown later).


Left to right that would be Panel saw crosscut, Carcass saw crosscut, dovetail saw, panel saw rip cut and the giant one on the right is a big tenon saw. There is a japanese flush cut saw in the back there somewhere also.

For the above I used the giant tenon saw and the little dexter looking carcass saw for the shoulders.
Edited by SkinnyGoomba - 3/15/14 at 7:15am
post #3365 of 8662

Trimming the shoulders square and equal here. Some like it right off the saw, especially for wedge tenons or those that will be draw bored, however I prefer the accuracy of the planed shoulder.


One mortise and tenon fit up;

post #3366 of 8662
Mmmm, morning wood. Please more carpenter pron. This looks awesome, straight grain indeed.
post #3367 of 8662
Lol! Will do. The board I stumbled upon for this was quite a find, perfectly straight grain, which is exactly what I wanted for all of these structural components.
post #3368 of 8662
How will you finish it? Just oil ?
post #3369 of 8662
Waterlox. Nice thing is I have my finish plane tuned up so that I can get nice .0005" shavings and a surface ready for finish without sanding.
post #3370 of 8662
.0005" or .005"?

I know nothing about woodworking, but I do know something about metal and machine tolerances. Five tenths seems like a tiny amount of material to take; holding a half-thou tolerance on something even like aluminum is impossible without specifying a temperature as well; the metal expands and contracts that much. I know we're not talking about holding a tolerance here but...
post #3371 of 8662
Yes, .0005", they are so thin that they're nearly see-through and rarely register on my digital calipers.

To achieve this I polish the cutting edge to a 6000 grit finish on a whetstone, and dial in the plane's very fine adjustments to barely cut the surface. Also, this requires flattening with a jack plane prior to cutting with the finish plane.

The reason for doing this, rather than sanding, the surface reveals a reflective shimmer, it's much easier to maintain chamfers and works to eliminate dips caused by sanding unevenly.

Keep in mind, a jointer plane is 22-24", a jack plane is 15" and a smoothing (finish) plane is 9.5". The shorter the plane, the shorter the reference area.
post #3372 of 8662
Interesting; thanks for the explanation. The length of the plane is one of the things I was thinking about; a miniscule variation in the bottom of the plane lifts the blade right off the work surface. Then you'd better be sure to run all the way through the work surface, or you'll get a dip you can't reach.
post #3373 of 8662
No prob. It's similar to machining in that my problem solving tools are a set of feeler gauges and a precision ground straight edge. Rarely required for small parts, but they are necessity for flattening table tops by hand.

Also, for large surfaces, a smoothing plane does not necessarily take full-length shavings, it's probably better compared to scraping a machine surface than to precision grinding one. For small frame members I usually will take a full length shaving, for novelty I have a 30" ~ 1" wide shaving tacked up on my wall thats .0005" thick.

The tolerance of flatness over the length of a wooden work surface would be .010" typically, that would be necessary for a work bench because it's used a reference. For a dining table, .015 would be pretty reasonable.

There is a reason for all of this, and that is when fitting up the joinery it's actually much easier to work with precision surfaces than it is to work with surfaces that have a heavy variation. For instance for this table I will be cutting the bottom of the table to receive sliding dovetails. The male end will be part of a batten, if the table is not flat across the width it will make it impossible to join this pieces with any sort of precision. This will be a 'working' joint however, which exists to allow the table to expand and contract without coming out of flat, so there will be some consideration there.
post #3374 of 8662

Chopping out the mortises here for through tenons. Really pretty quick and easy to cut 1/4" mortises in walnut, much different story with 5/8 mortises in white ash.
post #3375 of 8662
Normally a mortise chopped out with a mortise chisel will require very little cleanup work, but in this case it requires it because the mortises were larger than the chisel. So I will be cutting the sides by 'paring', a technique of pushing a special ground chisel, rather than hitting it with a mallet. The result is a smooth cut.

These are wedge tenons so the outside slot is longer than the inside slot, the top and bottom will be angled outward to accommodate the tenons once fitted with wedges. This is a joint created prior to gluing joinery, and while I will use glue to take up some of the slight inconsistencies in the joint, it will not be relied upon for strength.
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