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I bought a sharpening stone - Page 12

post #166 of 184
I guess it's a good one then. : )
post #167 of 184
I got one of those artificial stone boards for xmas from my father-in-law. Interesting. Dulls the shit out my new knife though frown.gif
post #168 of 184
Well, I have sharpening stones now smile.gif.
post #169 of 184
Quote:
Originally Posted by NOBD View Post

w97DbYC.jpg

Have you ever used one of those?

End grain boards (like that one) are much better for your knife and will help keep it sharp longer. I actually made a solid walnut board myself but the Boardsmith makes some really amazing looking boards. He'll even do a "bespoke" board if you want something customized.
http://www.theboardsmith.com/

If anyone wants to attempt making one, this tutorial is helpful:
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/how-to-make-a-butcher-block-cutting-board/
Hand planing end grain is a PITA though, unless you have access to a large drum sander.
post #170 of 184
Thanks for the links! Perhaps for a future project smile.gif.

I've decided to get this one (beech):

EwNrjxv.jpg
post #171 of 184
Knife 2. A smaller meat knife.

Halfway down I changed from clamps; the part close to the handle is a bit of a mess shog[1].gif.

IWDMcII.jpg


And the point was hard to do...

5PD4qB2.jpg


The other side is better:

VfqWIEu.jpg

Enfin, practice makes perfect, and the knife is now sharper than it has ever been. And it's a nice job to do.


One small one to go:

NZeFUrK.jpg
post #172 of 184
J8b80Zf.jpg
post #173 of 184
Maybe I need some of those guides.

My first bevel is nowhere near as wide as that which makes me think I am using too big of an angle.

The whole thing makes me want to get rid of knives with a bolster like that though. I tried to take a bastard file to my chef's knife to make it so I could sharpen all the way to the tail but the metal is much too hard. Would probably be a full day's filing to get it down to the bevel angle
post #174 of 184
A file won't do much to it unless it is carbide, and if it is it will not look pretty when finished.
post #175 of 184
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkinnyGoomba View Post

A file won't do much to it unless it is carbide, and if it is it will not look pretty when finished.

Well, obviously I would sand it back to prettyness...but yeah, the file was no good.

I've seen people take down the bolster with grinders/belt sanders but then you have to start to be careful about overheating the blade..and since I don't own either, I guess I will just wait until I buy a new knife that doesn't have it (if I decide against the japanese blades, at least the wusthof inox one has a sane bolster).
post #176 of 184
Best way would be belt sander, even still that would be hell to grind down the hardened steel bolster. Leave it alone and buy a knife without it next time, IMO.
post #177 of 184
Naniwa Work Stones, Super Stones or Chosera? I understand that the work stones are the softest, chosera the hardest. For beginners like me, soft stones are more prone to accidental damage ("cutting" the stones). The Super Stones and Choseras are roughly the same in price, since the Choseras also include a Nagura stone. The Work Stones are much cheaper. Which should I go for?

Alternatively, stones from Tojiro, Chroma or Kai.

Also, the Nagura stone is pretty small, and obviously flattening is easier with a larger stone. This here looks good? http://www.edenwebshops.de/de/pt/-naniwa-grober-abriebstein-koernung-24.htm Or is a smaller one (though still much larger than the Nagura), like http://www.edenwebshops.de/de/pt/-naniwa-abritzstein-koernung-24.htm , at less than half the price sufficient?
post #178 of 184
FWIW: I, a beginner like you, haven't had any problems with damaging the Naniwa Work Stone (1000/3000) I have. After two, three hours of sharpening.
post #179 of 184
Alright. For 240mm knifes, is 182x62x27 enough or should I rather take something like 210x70x25?
post #180 of 184
That website looks exactly the same as the Dutch site where I ordered (www.knivesandtools.nl).
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