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Black tie event - Page 2

post #16 of 19
Manton Actually I think we are both right. You are absolutely correct about the historical wearing of the wing collar. However, Debrett's 'Etiquette and Modern Manners' has it that wing collar, nowadays, is strictly worn only with white tie. I do not think this 'rule' is widely followed - except by Liverymen, military Messes, and so on. Personally I think a good wing collar (with some depth and stiffness - not those feeble floppy things so often seen), looks very well with dinner jacket. I have worn mine (to a 'Battle of Britain' theme night in the Mess, where we had the option of 1940's evening dress), with my bespoke DB dinner jacket - and it looked splendid. It also goes rather well with my smoking jacket. I have, in my wardrobe, a 1940s SB dinner jacket with fantastic ribbed, watered silk lapels; the trousers need some alterations and the whole thing needs cleaning, but I am looking forward to wearing it with my evening waistcoat - and wing collar.
post #17 of 19
Quote:
Debrett's 'Etiquette and Modern Manners' has it that the wing collar, nowadays, is strictly worn only with white tie.
It would appear that the English have changed the rules on us. I still prefer the old rule: the wing collar is required with white tie, optional with black tie. The problem with wing collar shirts in America is that only a tiny handful of bepoke shirtmakers make them correctly.  The "wing collar" shirts sold in shops are awful: the collar is too low, the wings too small, and the whole thing too soft.  Nine times out of ten, the RTW manufacturers put a pleated front on a wing collar shirt.  Even Brooks does this.  You'd think they of all shops would know better. There is no point in owning or wearing one unless it is done right: separate stiff collar, at least 1 1/2" high (depending on your neck length); wings big enough to hold their own against the bow tie's blades; stiff front bib in plain starched cotton or piqué; stiff single cuffs to match; voile or lightweight broadcloth body and sleeves.
post #18 of 19
And let's not forget a bespoke bow tie. Who wants to see a clip, pulley, set of buttons, velcro, or whatever peeking above a suit collar?
post #19 of 19
Avoid at all costs the Sulka tuxedo shirts on Ebay. They're crap.
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