Originally Posted by Despos
Hold the tie by the narrow end and let it fall vertically. The tie should hang perfectly straight with no turning or twisting. This shows it is cut on the true bias and will hang properly when it is tied. ......
A very good point when looking at lower end ties. This may also be true for higher end ties but if so it is sad as it is very easy to cut on the bias. For higher end ties the twist is typically caused not by an error in cutting on the bias, but by errors in folding and sewing the tie. When we train apprentice tie makers we have to slowly and carefully show them how to fold and sew the back as twisting often happens until they get experience. Metroman,
An interesting thought about ties being made from one piece of silk. With very few exceptions ties are made with more than one piece of silk. Now what you you may be observing is a well made tie that looks like it was made from one piece of silk. I have had clients comment on one piece ties that we made for them which I explained were actually 2 or 3 piece ties. As for the tipping being of the same fabric - yes, this is a sign of a well made tie but it takes a bit more work to use tipping from another silk or fabric and can be a very beautiful look. TieAlign,
We favor pure wool interlinings for the reasons that you mention and use cotton as an additional layer when we want to add thickness without weight, not for strength. I am curious as to what makes you say that cotton adds strength when combined with wool? In general:
A good tie will first have the color, design and texture that a gentlemen prefers. After that a good wool interlining combined with a careful construction. A good knot is subjective, as is the type of fold and interlining weight or lack of. The correct length and width. At the high end luxury fabrics and a fit and finish that makes for a well balanced tie. You should not see loose threads and the folding should be balanced. The fabric and interlining will typically be cut by hand especially if the fabric design needs to finish at a certain place. A striped tie will have the larger background stripe be where the tie ends not one of the smaller stripes. In summary there are many small details that most gentlemen do not think of that go into luxury tie making. Luckily it is easy to spot a good tie: 1) Does it look nice to you from a distance? Trust your personal judgment not what others say. 2) If so pick the tie up - does it feel balanced and do you like the texture? 3) Finally try it on and if you feel good buy the tie.