Decent show. I think the resources HBO has dropped on the show has taken it from mediocre to watchable.
I think Sookie is a pretty weak character overall. I don't really care about her even if she is the main character. The Grandmother is weak and goofy. Overall, I don't feel like the show really captures the small town feel that it is going for. You don't accomplish that feel by making a few characters naive and give them all southern accents.
Jason is a great character, though. For being so shallow, he has the most depth. I do like the Tara, although the story with her mother is horrible.