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Tuxedo Fabric Choices

post #1 of 47
10/12/08 at 1:47pm
Thread Starter 
I am in the process of finalizing a three piece tuxedo from Chan. It will be a one button, peak lapel with a shawl lapel vest. I had asked for a fabric in the 11-13oz range and they have sent me two options from H&S:

HS977039 black barathea wool worsted




HS977044 baack wool worsted




Does H&S make a good formal wear fabric? if so, are either of these good options? I am happy to go back to them and ask to see something different. I had originally thought that 11-13oz was a good mid weight fabric for a tux, but please let me know if you think I should look at something else, I didnt want anything too heavy.

Finally, Patrick suggested a fishtail back for the trousers. What are peoples thoughts on a fishtail vs. normal back? Would a fishtail only call for wearing suspenders? I dont particularly want to wear suspenders if I am already wearing a vest.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 47
10/12/08 at 1:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axelman 17 View Post

Finally, Patrick suggested a fishtail back for the trousers. What are peoples thoughts on a fishtail vs. normal back? Would a fishtail only call for wearing suspenders? I dont particularly want to wear suspenders if I am already wearing a vest.

Thanks!

You should do the fishtail and you should wear the suspenders under the vest. Seriously. First, I don't see the conflict between the vest and the suspenders. Second, the suspenders will keep your pants in place much, much better than anything else. It's also pretty traditional to suspend your tuxedo pants.
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post #3 of 47
10/12/08 at 2:10pm
I say go for this one from H Lesser:



Sadly, it is a puny 14 Oz. I would prefer something with real body - preferably in the order of 18-26 Oz. But alas, it is not to be.

I have a bolt of this 14 Oz barathea in my closet and can attest to it being beautiful stuff. If feels incredibly light and soft
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post #4 of 47
10/12/08 at 2:19pm
What is the speckling, Sator?
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post #5 of 47
10/12/08 at 2:20pm
I'm not sure - dust on the scanner? The sample in real life and my bolt are black as night - with no stars.
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post #6 of 47
10/12/08 at 2:24pm
Definitely get the barathea.
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post #7 of 47
10/12/08 at 2:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axelman 17 View Post
I am in the process of finalizing a three piece tuxedo from Chan. It will be a one button, peak lapel with a shawl lapel vest. I had asked for a fabric in the 11-13oz range and they have sent me two options from H&S: HS977039 black barathea wool worsted HS977044 baack wool worsted Does H&S make a good formal wear fabric? if so, are either of these good options? I am happy to go back to them and ask to see something different. I had originally thought that 11-13oz was a good mid weight fabric for a tux, but please let me know if you think I should look at something else, I didnt want anything too heavy. Finally, Patrick suggested a fishtail back for the trousers. What are peoples thoughts on a fishtail vs. normal back? Would a fishtail only call for wearing suspenders? I dont particularly want to wear suspenders if I am already wearing a vest. Thanks!
Holland and Sherry make excellent formal fabrics. I wouldn't use the H. Lesser formal book, that is not their strong suit, err point.
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post #8 of 47
10/12/08 at 2:28pm
I think that a tux should be as cool and light as possible. I think a mohair blend, with Oxxford-style lining, in a color kind of like Montblanc's blue-black ink, would be ideal. And yes to the braces. I'm not sure about the fishtail, but a traditional split waistband can't hurt anything.
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post #9 of 47
10/12/08 at 2:30pm
Yes, the H&S formal book is excellent. It is perhaps their finest book. However, I would still take the H Lesser over the H&S ANY DAY
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post #10 of 47
10/12/08 at 2:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
Definitely get the barathea.

Why, is there some kind of rule governing this?
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post #11 of 47
10/12/08 at 2:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprezzatura2010 View Post
I think that a tux should be as cool and light as possible. I think a mohair blend, with Oxxford-style lining, in a color kind of like Montblanc's blue-black ink, would be ideal. And yes to the braces. I'm not sure about the fishtail, but a traditional split waistband can't hurt anything.
Yes to light, yes to mohair, yes to color. With that combination it needs to be fully lined, though. At least, that is how mine is made up. No braces, I hate them, and a double breasted coat and well fitting pants make them unneccessary.
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post #12 of 47
10/12/08 at 2:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
Why, is there some kind of rule governing this?

Yes.
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post #13 of 47
10/12/08 at 2:32pm
All this talk of Lesser is a waste of time. Chan doesn't carry it and they won't take COM.
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post #14 of 47
10/12/08 at 2:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sator View Post
Yes, the H&S formal book is excellent. It is perhaps their finest book. However, I would still take the H Lesser over the H&S ANY DAY
You are entitled to your tastes and you have your own look but the Lesser Formal book is a little too retro for most unless one wants to stand out as remarkable for dressing in the mode of La Belle Epoque.
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post #15 of 47
10/12/08 at 2:34pm
I love braces. Nothing, absolutely nothing, makes the line of the trousers as crisp as proper brace trousers. Also, they are cut looser around the waist, making them more comfortable. Definitely, go with brace trousers with a high fishtail back. Just say "no" to anything less.
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