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Hackett of london

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
I am planning a trip to London in January. Last time I was there, I tried on a jacket at Hackett in Jermyn street.  The quality seemed to be good for the price, and the jacket had nice details such as working sleeve buttons. Unfortunately, I was in a hurry and didn't inspect the jacket nor their other inventory very closely. I would be interested in any opinions or comments on Hackett. I am mostly looking for a sports coat/blazer, but would maybe be interested in a overcoat or perhaps a suit. Thanks in advance. Marcus
post #2 of 14
I like Hackett, but I don't think that they offer the best value for money. If you're going to be shopping in the Jermyn St. store, then I'd recommend you also check out some tailors in the surrounding area. In terms of quality, I think that Cordings' suits/coats are very well made indeed; they're also slightly cheaper than Hackett. Also check out Ede & Ravenscroft and Gieves & Hawkes (at the Piccadilly end of Savile Row). If you're not after a suit/coat from a prominent "name" then check out Roderick Charles - I bought a Covert coat from them earlier on in the year (because Harvie & Hudson didn't have any in my size in stock) - and I'm very pleased with it. If you're buying ready to wear, then you're going to be swayed by the house cut and how it suits your physique. Bengal Stripe should be able to comment on all of the above tailors, and may also have some specific recommendations of his own.
post #3 of 14
I must admit, I have a bit of a problem with Hackett. I remember them when they sold second hand clothes down at Parson's Green, Fulham, really out in the sticks. That's probably twenty-five years ago. (I suppose that gives away my age.) Since then the company has come up in the world and is now owned by Richemonde/Vendome who also owns Dunhill (and Cartier, Lange & Söhne, IWC and about everything else in jewels and watches). Hacketts specialize in the British look of the "Avengers" that over styled and parodied English-ness. They also have taken to plastering "English" all over their stuff: the flag of St George, the outline of the British Isle, "traditional British gear". As a result, Hackett's has become the label of choice for yobbos, hooligans and National Front supporters and everybody who wants to display "English" aggressively. I don't say that the company has aimed deliberately at that market segment, but has done nothing to discourage it. I agree with MPF, that Cordings of Piccadilly or Ede & Ravenscroft, does that British look better and less self-conscious.
post #4 of 14
I think BS's comments are fair. To their credit, I think Hackett have raised the profile of the English look with younger buyers. Whilst their polo shirts might be associated with yob culture, their smart casual and formal clothes are not. I have a big soft spot for Ede and Ravenscroft: I've bought a couple of suits and academic gowns from them, one brief case and numerous ties, shirts, gloves, socks and braces.
post #5 of 14
What about Old England Paris? Another Richemont/Vendome company but it seems that the styling is rather nice. Beisdes I think they sell Turnbull & Asser shirtings at their retail locations. Asprey is another company that comes to mind that is very English. Fine products though.
post #6 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
I like Hackett, but I don't think that they offer the best value for money. If you're going to be shopping in the Jermyn St. store, then I'd recommend you also check out some tailors in the surrounding area. In terms of quality, I think that Cordings' suits/coats are very well made indeed; they're also slightly cheaper than Hackett. Also check out Ede & Ravenscroft and Gieves & Hawkes (at the Piccadilly end of Savile Row). If you're not after a suit/coat from a prominent "name" then check out Roderick Charles - I bought a Covert coat from them earlier on in the year (because Harvie & Hudson didn't have any in my size in stock) - and I'm very pleased with it. If you're buying ready to wear, then you're going to be swayed by the house cut and how it suits your physique. Bengal Stripe should be able to comment on all of the above tailors, and may also have some specific recommendations of his own.
Thank you for the advice. My London shopping experience up until now have been for shirts and shoes only, and the only one of the shops you mention I have visited is G&H where I looked at a blazer. I thought Cordings was mainly for whatever the English do when in the countryside; thick tweeds and tattersal shirts and the like. I will take your advice about the price and quality and have a look. A covert coat is really not a bad idea. The one at Cordings' web site (£395) looks nice, it would probably be in charcoal for me though. I also remember to have seen a nice one at New and Lingwood which I did not try on because they didn't have my size. Can I ask how much you paid for yours? I am sorry about the vulgar money talk, but I am on a budget. The only extent to which I care about "names" is as a guide to quality and cut, I really do not care about the little label on the inside of the jacket. Marcus
post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
I have a big soft spot for Ede and Ravenscroft: I've bought a couple of suits and academic gowns from them, one brief case and numerous ties, shirts, gloves, socks and braces.
I forgot to ask you about Ede and Ravenscroft in your first posting. How do they compare to Cordings and Gieves and Hawkes price wise? If I remember correctly, the jackets I tried on at these two shops were around £200 and £250, respectively, on (the summer) sale. It was the same type of jacket: a tan linen blazer. Let me know if you happen to have any information about the upcoming sale. I will try contact the shops I am interested in. Marcus
post #8 of 14
Quote:
Asprey is another company that comes to mind that is very English. Fine products though.
Asprey has just started to sell fashion items for the first time since the 1930s. Their main house is still being rebuilt. It takes incredibly long. Norman Foster gets the latest addition to the London skyline, the 41-storeyed "erotic gherkin" built in less time. The men's collection, with Hussein Chalayan as Creative Director is very simple but uses luxurious fabrics (Duffle coats in cashmere). Shoes are partly Edward Green and partly Italian made. It is very much the English-ness of the Duke of Windsor. I've just seen a suit and shoes of his displayed somewhere (maybe at Asprey): What a tiny man he was. Probably the nearest thing to Arny's across the channel, Asprey is definitely worth a visit.
post #9 of 14
Marcus, Ede and Ravenscroft are no more expensive than Hackett and their sale starts just before Christmas. I think that you might be able to pick up a jacket for £225 - £250 on sale. They have a number of stores (Chancery Lane, Savile Row, Cambridge, Oxford & Edinburgh), so if you don't see what you like in your size, you can always ask the staff to contact another branch. I paid about £275 (down from £375) for my Roderick Charles covert coat - I bought it right at the end of the post-Christmas sale.
post #10 of 14
Marcus, I was in London over the last couple of days and checked out some of the places you should visit. I took a look at some Hackett suits - the construction seems fine, though the fabrics are a little sub-par for the price. Ede & Ravenscroft have some nice suits in at the moment, some with extra pairs of trousers: their sale should be on by the time you get here. I also went to a shop that I hadn't been to for a few years: Stanley Ley on High Holborn. They make some of the nicest RTW suits I've seen - many are now on sale (e.g. 3 piece grey chalkstripe down from £595 to £295). The cut is super slim with a relatively high gorge. The chap in the shop - a ginger tailor - is rather truculent, so be prepared.
post #11 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Marcus, I was in London over the last couple of days and checked out some of the places you should visit. I took a look at some Hackett suits - the construction seems fine, though the fabrics are a little sub-par for the price. Ede & Ravenscroft have some nice suits in at the moment, some with extra pairs of trousers: their sale should be on by the time you get here. I also went to a shop that I hadn't been to for a few years: Stanley Ley on High Holborn. They make some of the nicest RTW suits I've seen - many are now on sale (e.g. 3 piece grey chalkstripe down from £595 to  £295). The cut is super slim with a relatively high gorge. The chap in the shop - a ginger tailor - is rather truculent, so be prepared.
Again very valuable information, MPS. I have just ordered airplane tickets for January 9th. All you suggestions have been put on my list. Stanley Ley sounds interesting, and thanks for the warning. Regarding cut, I am quite slim and not very tall (176cm), and want a slim cut but a relatively short jacket. Marcus
post #12 of 14
The Stanley Ley suit coats were OK for me in length, though I'm a little taller (183 cm). If you do need them shortened, they'd still look OK, as the gorge is high. There should be no problem adjusting sleeve length either - although the sleeves are fully functional, they don't sew the buttons on until the sleeve length has been set. Their address is 315 High Holborn.
post #13 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
The Stanley Ley suit coats were OK for me in length, though I'm a little taller (183 cm). If you do need them shortened, they'd still look OK, as the gorge is high. There should be no problem adjusting sleeve length either - although the sleeves are fully functional, they don't sew the buttons on until the sleeve length has been set. Their address is 315 High Holborn.
I will not stay long enough to wait for any corrections, but I assume they can use the mysterious tailor chalk mark language to describe corrections to my local tailor. Since we talked about Ede and Ravenscroft; I just picked up the december US GQ. The gentleman on the bottom left on p. 74 is wearing shoes from E & R. Do anyone know who makes them? Based on previous comments here, I would not bet money on it not being Crockett and Jones. Bengal-stripe? Marcus
post #14 of 14
I think that BS mentioned a while back that they are now made by Grenson. (I find their regular line a little staid, however they also have some very nice "special order" shoes.) I understand that they have been supplied by Crockett & Jones and Church's in the past.
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