John Varvartos is a case in point. To my knowledge, the label is in its entirety is a division of Nautica. If Varvatos does not sell (and that seems to be the case), I presume Nautica will drop it at some point for commercial reasons. I have no idea what contract exists between Varvatos and Nautica. If for example Nautica decides to drop the label or to take the label mid-market and Varvatos objects, what will happen? Can he walk out with his name, or, as obviously is the case with Sander and Lang, will he have to leave his name behind. A number of designer labels (and I am not so up-to-date with all the commercial contracts) are not owned by the designers but by the backing companies. Maybe the "Belgian Kids" (who are all pretty middle-aged by now) are in control of their respective names and companies, but people like Alexander McQueen or Stella McCartney certainly are not. Maybe it is impossible in the design field these days to start small, grow and eventually become a "name". Now you have to start off as a "name", with all the promotional budget that entails, and maybe you sell or you don't. But as the young designer has signed a pact with the devil he might well be chewed up and spat out. In this respect, the textile business is no different from the record industry.