Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

So Jcrew is sold out of their suiting in a size 36 & 38. Any place online where i can purchase a similar cotton suit with a modern fit for around the same price? Thinking about going with this bannana republic suit http://bananarepublic.gap.com/browse...8&oid=OUT17842 or maybe a H&M suit off ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/NWT-H-M-SLIM-SKI...#ht_631wt_1137

Originally Posted by onix

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The numbering system is a bit more complicated than most people think. And it evolves over time. Here is a brief overview.

Here is for the silk twill.

- Hermes first introduced Hermes ties and labeled them "## xx" (for example, the popular 59 EA). Now, most documents online claim that the xx is the name of the artist, or the code for the design department, or the one who hand stitched the ties, etc., but I personally highly doubt that, since all of them end with A).
- In the early 70s, they started expanding their market and introduced a lot new designs, thus, the 2 digits must be extended to 3 digits. Hence we have "### xx".
- At the end of the 80s, the 3-digit numbers ran out, so they started using 4 digit, hence "7### xx"
- At the end of the 90s, these 7000s numbers ran out, so they started "5### xx". So the newest ties are 5000s, with the higher the last 3 digits the newer. For example, 5465 to 5486 = Fall/Winter 2009, 5430 to 5460 = Spring/Summer 2009, etc.,

Other than silk twill:

Also at the end of the 80s, the company started producing different lines (heavy silk, wool, cashmere, linen, etc.), and new numbering system is required. So they labeled all of them with the following format: "##-####-T##" where the first ## indicates the type: 00 means the classic silk twill, 75 means the heavy silk, the second group of 4-digits #### is the design number. The last 2 digits = the color code.

Wow! Yes, that's more trouble than its worth. I will leave the tie for someone who might actually like it.

What color SC is best to match up with mid grey and charcoal pants? Navy? Patterned? Are mid grey-charcoal pants not a good match for sportscoats? Should these colors be saved for suitings instead?

Originally Posted by onix

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Hermes info:

Jesus sir. You just defined the name of this thread. Perfection.

What is the difference between Brooks Brothers sport shirts and dress shirts? (mainly interested in button down collars)

I didn't realize sizing was different as well, I'm wearing a 15-32 Slim fit in the Non-Iron dress shirt. Small or medium in the sport shirt slim fit?

Originally Posted by gumercindo

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What color SC is best to match up with mid grey and charcoal pants? Navy? Patterned? Are mid grey-charcoal pants not a good match for sportscoats? Should these colors be saved for suitings instead?
Mid to dark gray is probably the most versatile color for odd trousers. Depending on the precise tone, they can work with all kinds of jacket colors including navy, olive, and brown. Patterns, too. There are a pretty fair number of photos here in the WAYWT thread and elsewhere of gray odd trousers with jackets if you want to see particular examples.

I need a few questions addressed:

1) Leather Soled Shoes - I have some brown cap-toed Bruno Magli oxfords with leather soles. Being the first pair of leather soles i have owned, they seem to be wearing thin quickly (approx. 6 months.) i have never worn them in the rain but they have gotten damp a few times the day-after a rain. Please advise to the average life span before a shoe needs to be resoled and how to get the longest possible life span.

2) I recently saw a movie and an actor was wearing a button down ainsley collar. I have normally been apposed to button down collars because the ones I have usually seen are limp, thin, flimsy collars. This one was solid, well constructed, and came to a solid point (possibly 1.75" in length). any advice on designers who make this kind of sturdy button down?

3) Paste vs. Polish - once again, the brunos. I have a black pair of bruno oxfords that I rubbed down with saddle soap and shined with some black Kiwi shoe paste. worked great. I got some natural colored Kiwi polish for my brown cap-toes, rubbed them down with saddle soap, and the polish was super waxy and gave me trouble (probably because my shoes were damp and it was waxy). I am leaning towards ditching polish and going only paste. Any advice on this age old debate?

So does the blue sole on some Sutors indicate these are higher quality?

Looking at J. Press jackets... why are they all 3 button? Also could someone please explain to me their use of the terms 'darted' and 'sack' when describing their sportcoats?

Obliged,
J

Originally Posted by dmash1080

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So does the blue sole on some Sutors indicate these are higher quality?

From what I understand, they all have blue soles now. But, a few yrs ago, I think the top ones had a blue sole. Also, I think the script writing on SM soles indicate better quality.

Gentlemen:

I've got a wedding coming up at the end of the month, and I'd like to break out my AE black/white spectators. Questions: I've got two cotton-poplin suits, khaki and oyster (stone) - which color do you think would look better with the black/white specs (and matching black/white spectator belt)?

Second question, if I successfully resist the urge to wear a black dress shirt with this ensemble, is white my only other option (wearing a black/tan XMI repp tie)?

Finally, would a small, bakelite or silk, black rose lapel pin be considered gauche in a non-business social setting? I thought it might be a nice touch with the spectators.

Thanks for the help!

-Tom-

Flat front chinos, creased or no crease? Yay, nay, sometimes? Explain.

Originally Posted by D Yizz

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Flat front chinos, creased or no crease? Yay, nay, sometimes? Explain.

Personally, I don't like wearing my chinos with creases. I just think it looks cleaner without them.

Me too, but I usually wear them sans sc's. The other day I wore one with a linen sc and wondered if it'd look better creased.

Originally Posted by D Yizz

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Flat front chinos, creased or no crease? Yay, nay, sometimes? Explain.

Depends. Casually, No. With jacket and tie, Yes. Something in between, Maybe.