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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here - Page 1811

post #27151 of 28325
How do Redwing Postmans fit in terms of width?
post #27152 of 28325
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexanderTG View Post

Hi guys,

I'm new to SF in general and definitely to CM, but I do have a question and I'm hoping for some advice (please be gentle) smile.gif

I'm 43, 5'6" and a size 40-42 in most shirts/jackets.

I'm looking for a brand or style of blazer that has softer shoulders than most. It seems a lot of the jackets I try on end up with way too much padding and it doesn't look flattering. I have a couple of jackets I've collected over the years (Jil Sander, Margiela, Boss) but they just look like I'm dressing up for the prom or court. wink.gif

And being 5'6" and with rather short arms I can almost always assure myself that whatever I do find will have to be hemmed. I have a couple of tailors out here but they've all managed to massacre the jackets I have at the cuffs and just basically move the buttons up three inches and do away with the original cuff.

I live four hours from NYC and get there from time to time. I'd love to say I could just go and try on a bunch and make my decision that way, but it's more realistic for me to just try and seek out something online with a good return policy (like Mr Porter).

Am I looking for an unstructured? Soft shoulders? Thom Browne? Brioni? Saint Laurent? I see lots of brands and terms out there but it's hard to really see it all in context sometimes.

My price range is around 1k.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks so much.

ATG

Boglioli can be had for ~$400. Great quality, soft shoulders, fashionably short.
post #27153 of 28325
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Either colour suit is fine, and I'd wear a white shirt and white pocket square. For tie colour, the navy or burgundy will be more formal than the green. Navy tie with charcoal seems the most formal of the possible combinations to me, but it's only a bit more formal than navy suit with burgundy tie.

As to the formality if grenadine, I don't know how formal or is considered, so I'll leave that to someone else to answer.

I'll also pass on some advice I've seen elsewhere in the forum, regarding pocket squares - if you feel unsure, skip it altogether. That said, white shirt and white linen pocket square is very safe, and very appropriate to both occasions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Ryan View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Grenadine is not at all 'too informal', and is an excellent choice. Navy is indeed great with charcoal suits, but so is burgundy (esp. with a pale pink shirt). For a very formal, professional, sedate and sophisticated look, go with the midnight blue over navy, as it should be dark enough not to clash, and wear with your navy suit with a white shirt. In my opinion the forest green is brighter than you might think (in sunlight esp. - I own it) and not nearly as versatile; that said, it should be worn with a pale blue shirt and would (IMO) look better with a navy suit than charcoal. Also, consider the grenadine grossa over the piccola you've linked - it comes down to personal preference, but I think the grossa's fantastic texture is the best of the four available weaves (and no, not too informal).

W/r/t a wedding, I've never thought there was any reason a discreet solid tie such as the ones you've chosen wouldn't work just as well as a 'formal/wedding' tie. I believe the 'wedding tie' notation is to indicate it is more formal than other neats and so forth. A solid bypasses such concerns. Insofar as the 'SF favorite', I again don't see why it would be problematic - it is a discreet, non flashy stripe. If there is a traditional reason to avoid such a pattern - esp. in that weave - I'm not aware of it, but someone please correct me if so.

I don't care for light ties, such as the one you've linked. They are really only appropriate for spring/summer and indeed difficult to pair. A tie should be darker than the shirt, which leaves you really with just a white shirt or a very, very pale blue. If I'm not mistaken the squares on that tie are a deep green (could be my monitor, but I believe so) so a pocket square that contains such a color would work well, or any complementary colors, depending on the whole outfit, although for a wedding you might be better off with a simple white linen TV fold, esp. with a white shirt. Either navy or charcoal would be fine for the wedding, but with that particular tie I would use the navy (I think greens only look good with mid-light grey, not charcoal, but that's just my opinion).

Also re: white shirt and which suit, remember that a white shirt is better at night than any alternative, although the navy and charcoal are equally fine in the evening. Some say black shoes with both at night, I say burgundy or even a dark brown with the navy and black only with charcoal (where you could do burgundy too, if you so desire).

Hope that helps somewhat.

Thank you guys.
I might just get the burgundy and navy grenadines and skip the wedding tie thing altogehter (at least for the time being). Will consider getting the grossa instead of the one linked.
With those ties, I think white linen PS with TV fold is the way to go. I would have had no idea with a wedding tie.
post #27154 of 28325
Not counting the million variants of white bases; what would ge the most versatile colour/fabric/type of pocket square?
post #27155 of 28325
Quote:
Originally Posted by ovlov View Post

Not counting the million variants of white bases; what would ge the most versatile colour/fabric/type of pocket square?

I find brown and darker shades of purple and red the most useful after white and cream.
post #27156 of 28325

Hi Styleforum-ers,

  I have been lurking on this forum for a while now, learnt a bunch of stuff from all of you, and finally plucked up the courage to ask a question here.

 

  I bought an unlined, unstructured, casual navy blazer with patch pockets from eBay. I did not pay too much for it, so am not unhappy if it is not a perfect piece. However, just for my education, I am really interested in finding out if it is indeed possible that the designer intended for this blazer not to have any cuff/sleeve buttons?

 

  To be fair, I did not see any non-functional button holes or other indications that buttons were originally on the cuff. The sleeve is just a barrel all the way through from the shoulder to the cuff. The seller told me it was designed as such. However, I have a feeling that the seller is a reseller and not the original owner (no proof of that, just a feeling based on his huge volume of sales).

 

  Since this blazer is new-to-me, I intend to wear it just for kicks even if it is not perfect and missing the cuff buttons. Any pictures/links on how to wear an unstructured blazer will be great education for me. As I wear it, I find that the unstructured/unlined nature of the blazer does not really fit how I imagine a blazer should look like (which is much more structured). I am sure that there are ways to pull off this unstructured look, and am looking forward to learning about your favorite looks and ideas.

 

  Also, this blazer is some blend of silk (I think). In any case, it wrinkles very easily. Do you think it is OK to wear this casual blazer wrinkled? I read that ironing it too much might make it shiny in a bad way, and I am also too lazy to iron it every time I wear it. I could possibly outsource the ironing to the drycleaners, but it costs money and two trips to pickup and drop off the blazer.

 

  Sorry for asking so many questions! You guys are great!

 

newbie321

P.S: Sorry for double-posting too. I started a new thread before I realized I was supposed to ask questions here.

post #27157 of 28325
How far does the rule of 'no navy and black together' go? I have a navy chalkstripe suit and got a green/black/caramel pocket square to go with a handful of shirts. The green and brown match really well, but im worried that the black background to the colour throws the whole thing off. Is this just me worrying about nothing or will it actually destroy the look?
post #27158 of 28325
Quote:
Originally Posted by zbhanji3 View Post

How far does the rule of 'no navy and black together' go? I have a navy chalkstripe suit and got a green/black/caramel pocket square to go with a handful of shirts. The green and brown match really well, but im worried that the black background to the colour throws the whole thing off. Is this just me worrying about nothing or will it actually destroy the look?

I am one of the few people around here to have ever heard that rule, and one of even fewer proponents. And I think you are probably fine. If you look in th few mirror, and like it, wear it. If you aren't sure, skip the PS. If you want more opinions, post up a pic.
post #27159 of 28325
Quote:
Originally Posted by zbhanji3 View Post

Is this just me worrying about nothing?

Yes. It'll look fine.
post #27160 of 28325
Quote:
Originally Posted by zbhanji3 View Post

How far does the rule of 'no navy and black together' go? I have a navy chalkstripe suit and got a green/black/caramel pocket square to go with a handful of shirts. The green and brown match really well, but im worried that the black background to the colour throws the whole thing off. Is this just me worrying about nothing or will it actually destroy the look?

^^ I agree that it will look just fine. However, I completely sympathize with your concern, and am unable to overcome this mental block myself with any PS I own that has the slightest bit of black in it (I try and tell myself it's midnight navy, but it never works) :confused: 

 

...but no one will notice but you.

post #27161 of 28325
Why is there paper tissue in one (not two) socks? What's the purpose of the tissue, and why only one?
post #27162 of 28325

Really quick fit question here...


Late to the whole db/soft shouldered/Italian game but just snagged this jacket that I love. 

Only thing... is it a little tight in the shoulders? I know since I'm asking it likely is. And I found exactly one other place on the internet to snag one size bigger for a similar price, so I may just be in luck.

Thanks, 

 

post #27163 of 28325
Quick question: when wearing a gingham check shirt with a suit, is a button down or point/spread collar more appropriate? It's a casual look and a button down seems reasonable, but I associate button down collars almost exclusively with solid white or blue oxford shirts.
post #27164 of 28325
Quote:
Originally Posted by Morgan View Post

Quick question: when wearing a gingham check shirt with a suit, is a button down or point/spread collar more appropriate? It's a casual look and a button down seems reasonable, but I associate button down collars almost exclusively with solid white or blue oxford shirts.

 

Normally I'd say BD collar, no question, but you said suit. In which case I'd balance the casualness of the pattern with a standard formal collar. Opinions vary widely on BD's with suits, but I personally wear them (all the time) only with sport coats and ties, and use spread collars for suits, regardless of pattern or fabric.

 

No need to associated BD collars only with white/blue OCBDs, though - they're great casual wear (with or without tie, with or without sportcoat) in all standard shirting colors and patterns, as well as other fabrics besides oxford cloths - pinpoint, broadcloth, twill, even flannel.

post #27165 of 28325
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheYachtMaster View Post
 

Really quick fit question here...


Late to the whole db/soft shouldered/Italian game but just snagged this jacket that I love. 

Only thing... is it a little tight in the shoulders? I know since I'm asking it likely is. And I found exactly one other place on the internet to snag one size bigger for a similar price, so I may just be in luck.

Thanks, 

 


I love me a good soft shoulder.  The shoulders don't look too tight at all, and the lines are very clean and nice.  However, if you're feeling pressure on the outer edge of your biceps (possibly why you're asking?), it's likely that the sleeves aren't roomy enough at the sleevehead to accommodate your arms.  The sleeves might be too tight in general, which would explain the excessive wrinkling.  Might just be the thin fabric, though.

Also, the gorge on those peaks are ridiculously high.  Ideal for peak lapel is for the peak to point directly to the shoulder seam, and your peaks are flying away off the top of your shoulders.

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