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post #27136 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadAngle View Post

Depends on the type of tuxedo shirt.  If you mean a fly-front shirt with turn-down collar (possibly detachable) and french/single link cuffs, then go for it because that's pretty much just a business shirt anyway.  If it contains a bib (pleated or flat), a wing collar, or stud front, you're best off with keeping that with the tuxedo.

Specifically, something like this...

Shirts_Shirt_White_Double_Cuff_H698s_Suitsupply_Online_Store_1.jpg

Thanks again.
post #27137 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by LEgoiste View Post


Specifically, something like this...

Shirts_Shirt_White_Double_Cuff_H698s_Suitsupply_Online_Store_1.jpg

Thanks again.

 

No.  Absolutely not.  You will look ridiculous.

post #27138 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by kankles View Post

My go to ties for my navy suits are burgundy/grey/silver and I rarely deviate. I'm thinking red?

God no. Bright red is not a solution. Your go to ties are great. But also consider brown, blue, black or deep greens.
post #27139 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

No.  Absolutely not.  You will look ridiculous.

+1. Listen to ITG.
post #27140 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by kankles View Post

Navy pinstripe suit and burgundy shoes: anyone suggest a few good tie colours?

My go to ties for my navy suits are burgundy/grey/silver and I rarely deviate. I'm thinking red?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Veremund View Post


God no. Bright red is not a solution. Your go to ties are great. But also consider brown, blue, black or deep greens.

 

+1. Brown or dark green w/ a pale blue shirt and navy suit is good, but think about swapping the burgundy shoes for brown in that case.

post #27141 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veremund View Post


+1. Listen to ITG.

 

Said no one, ever.:cheers:

post #27142 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

Said no one, ever.cheers.gif

Lol!
post #27143 of 28664
Hi guys,

I'm new to SF in general and definitely to CM, but I do have a question and I'm hoping for some advice (please be gentle) smile.gif

I'm 43, 5'6" and a size 40-42 in most shirts/jackets.

I'm looking for a brand or style of blazer that has softer shoulders than most. It seems a lot of the jackets I try on end up with way too much padding and it doesn't look flattering. I have a couple of jackets I've collected over the years (Jil Sander, Margiela, Boss) but they just look like I'm dressing up for the prom or court. wink.gif

And being 5'6" and with rather short arms I can almost always assure myself that whatever I do find will have to be hemmed. I have a couple of tailors out here but they've all managed to massacre the jackets I have at the cuffs and just basically move the buttons up three inches and do away with the original cuff.

I live four hours from NYC and get there from time to time. I'd love to say I could just go and try on a bunch and make my decision that way, but it's more realistic for me to just try and seek out something online with a good return policy (like Mr Porter).

Am I looking for an unstructured? Soft shoulders? Thom Browne? Brioni? Saint Laurent? I see lots of brands and terms out there but it's hard to really see it all in context sometimes.

My price range is around 1k.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks so much.

ATG
post #27144 of 28664
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexanderTG View Post

...being 5'6" and with rather short arms I can almost always assure myself that whatever I do find will have to be hemmed. I have a couple of tailors out here but they've all managed to massacre the jackets I have at the cuffs and just basically move the buttons up three inches and do away with the original cuff.

I live four hours from NYC and get there from time to time. I'd love to say I could just go and try on a bunch and make my decision that way, but it's more realistic for me to just try and seek out something online with a good return policy (like Mr Porter).

Am I looking for an unstructured? Soft shoulders? Thom Browne? Brioni? Saint Laurent? I see lots of brands and terms out there but it's hard to really see it all in context sometimes.

My price range is around 1k.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks so much.

ATG

 

I'd wholeheartedly recommend SuitSupply, but if a Short sizing (as in, 38S, &c.) still requires sleeve shortening, you'd be out of luck, as SS uses working buttonholes. That said, they have a store in NYC but also have a great online return/exchange process.

 

W/r/t unstructured vs soft shoulders, I think you're looking for a soft or natural shouldered item. Unstructured does not refer accurately to tailored clothing, which is by definition structured. "Unstructured" means it is lacking some of the usual structural elements of jackets, such as a canvas, shoulder support, or even a lining - lack of which may overlap with a soft shouldered, minimally constructed tailored jacket, but never are the two the same.

post #27145 of 28664
Very cool. Thank you, Andrew. I'll look into SuitSupply. I could probably get away with a 40S, I just don't see that option offered much with the brands I'm familiar with (Margiela, Raf, APC, etc). My size has changed dramatically over the years (from 230lbs down to a still-to-be-improved-upon 175) so I've hesitated investing too heavily in tailored clothes. But that's something I'm hoping to change this year.

Thanks for your input.
post #27146 of 28664
Ok, guys I got a tie related question.
I want to order my first Sam Hober tie(s).

Besides office wear, I need them for two events specifically:
1. First communion (during the day, I assume partly outside):
I was thinking about getting a grenadine tie, which I can use for later events and work attire:
Burgundy
Navy
Forest green

Eventually I want to own all three colors, I assume there is no difference between the three except that navy would be suited for charcoal suits, while the other two more for navy suits.
But is grenadine to informal?

I assume this SF favorite is not suited for such an event.


The second event is a wedding, but I am struggling which tie I should get. I've been reading the wedding tie thread, but the only wedding tie I like from SamHober is that one. I struggle to pair it though.
Which suit color should I wear - navy or charcoal? Which shirt color - light blue? Pocket square?



Any help is appreciated, I am a bit lost.
post #27147 of 28664
Either colour suit is fine, and I'd wear a white shirt and white pocket square. For tie colour, the navy or burgundy will be more formal than the green. Navy tie with charcoal seems the most formal of the possible combinations to me, but it's only a bit more formal than navy suit with burgundy tie.

As to the formality if grenadine, I don't know how formal or is considered, so I'll leave that to someone else to answer.

I'll also pass on some advice I've seen elsewhere in the forum, regarding pocket squares - if you feel unsure, skip it altogether. That said, white shirt and white linen pocket square is very safe, and very appropriate to both occasions.
post #27148 of 28664

Grenadine is not at all 'too informal', and is an excellent choice. Navy is indeed great with charcoal suits, but so is burgundy (esp. with a pale pink shirt). For a very formal, professional, sedate and sophisticated look, go with the midnight blue over navy, as it should be dark enough not to clash, and wear with your navy suit with a white shirt. In my opinion the forest green is brighter than you might think (in sunlight esp. - I own it) and not nearly as versatile; that said, it should be worn with a pale blue shirt and would (IMO) look better with a navy suit than charcoal. Also, consider the grenadine grossa over the piccola you've linked - it comes down to personal preference, but I think the grossa's fantastic texture is the best of the four available weaves (and no, not too informal).

 

W/r/t a wedding, I've never thought there was any reason a discreet solid tie such as the ones you've chosen wouldn't work just as well as a 'formal/wedding' tie. I believe the 'wedding tie' notation is to indicate it is more formal than other neats and so forth. A solid bypasses such concerns. Insofar as the 'SF favorite', I again don't see why it would be problematic - it is a discreet, non flashy stripe. If there is a traditional reason to avoid such a pattern - esp. in that weave - I'm not aware of it, but someone please correct me if so.

 

I don't care for light ties, such as the one you've linked. They are really only appropriate for spring/summer and indeed difficult to pair. A tie should be darker than the shirt, which leaves you really with just a white shirt or a very, very pale blue. If I'm not mistaken the squares on that tie are a deep green (could be my monitor, but I believe so) so a pocket square that contains such a color would work well, or any complementary colors, depending on the whole outfit, although for a wedding you might be better off with a simple white linen TV fold, esp. with a white shirt. Either navy or charcoal would be fine for the wedding, but with that particular tie I would use the navy (I think greens only look good with mid-light grey, not charcoal, but that's just my opinion).

 

Also re: white shirt and which suit, remember that a white shirt is better at night than any alternative, although the navy and charcoal are equally fine in the evening. Some say black shoes with both at night, I say burgundy or even a dark brown with the navy and black only with charcoal (where you could do burgundy too, if you so desire).

 

Hope that helps somewhat.

post #27149 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

 ...regarding pocket squares - if you feel unsure, skip it altogether. That said, white shirt and white linen pocket square is very safe, and very appropriate to both occasions..

+1000, especially for a formal event.

post #27150 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Ryan View Post
Also re: white shirt and which suit, remember that a white shirt is better at night than any alternative, although the navy and charcoal are equally fine in the evening. Some say black shoes with both at night, I say burgundy or even a dark brown with the navy and black only with charcoal (where you could do burgundy too, if you so desire)

 

I say black shoes to any formal occasion.  If it is formal enough that dark suits are expected/most appropriate, black shoes are de riguer.  For day to day business wear, burgundy, or brown, work with either suit colour, just as well.

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