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post #26881 of 28869
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post

What would you pair it with for pants and shoes? I'm thinking maybe light blues for shirting options.

My first choice would indeed be light blue shirt. Probably paired with some sort of light to med. brown trousers. Then again, I am quite the noob when it comes to pairing clothes.

I'm guessing navy/dark blue trousers would also work well here. But then I would have a (off) white shirt instead of the light blue one.
post #26882 of 28869

First post on these forums, hope this is the right place to ask.

 

I'm 6'3", 170 lbs looking for advice on business tie length and width. My collar is about 16", do I need extra long ties (62") or would standard length (57") be fine? Also it seems that 3" is a good standard for business ties these days, is this correct?

 

FWIW I've never had a problem wearing standard length ties but the back is often quite short.

post #26883 of 28869
Quote:
Originally Posted by ondane View Post

Also it seems that 3" is a good standard for business ties these days, is this correct?
3" is a little narrower than I prefer, although it's not necessarily unacceptable for business. To a great extent it comes down to your build, the cut of your jacket, the nature of the tie, and your personal preferences. But I wouldn't advise going much narrower than 3", and if you wanted to go slightly wider, it would be unlikely to work against you.

Whatever you do, ignore those people who know a few basic facts about neckties, but who understand little of the rationale behind those facts. They're likely to tell you to match your tie width to your jacket's lapel width. This is sort of incorrect. While one should usually try to match a narrow lapel to a narrow tie, and a wide lapel to a wide tie, there is absolutely no requirement for an exact and precise match. Simply try (usually) to keep the two in the same general ballpark; a precise match (ie. "My lapels are 2.25" wide, so I'd be better off wearing my 2.25" wide tie, and not my 2.5" tie...") is not any better than a general match. You don't get extra points for the two being as nearly identical as possible in width.
Quote:
FWIW I've never had a problem wearing standard length ties but the back is often quite short.
If you haven't any problem with standard length ties, then you can wear standard length ties. If the back is shorter than you'd like, feel free to buy longer ties, so the back will be longer. Or, if the shirt collar and your personal taste support it, try a different type of knot.

At 6'3", 170 lbs., with a 16" collar, I wouldn't be surprised if you were better off with a 63" tie. On the other hand, neither would I be shocked if a 57" tie were fine. What it comes down to is, you've got to put on a tie, and ask yourself whether you'd like it better if it were a little longer.

This isn't rocket science, ondane. (Although a friend of mine who is a rocket scientist tells me that even rocket science isn't rocket science anymore.)
post #26884 of 28869
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12345Michael54321 View Post
This isn't rocket science, ondane. (Although a friend of mine who is a rocket scientist tells me that even rocket science isn't rocket science anymore.)

 

Thanks, I'm just starting to put together a proper business wardrobe and ordering things online means I like to double and triple check (and all the often contradictory advice can leave one paralysed). I've ordered a MTM suit from Kent Wang and might throw in some other basics too, it seems his shoes and ties have found favour on this forum so I might just consolidate and save on shipping costs.

post #26885 of 28869
Quote:
Originally Posted by ondane View Post

I've ordered a MTM suit from Kent Wang and might throw in some other basics too, it seems his shoes and ties have found favour on this forum so I might just consolidate and save on shipping costs.
I've got nothing against Kent Wang ties, but aren't they around the same price as Sam Hober ties?

I ask, as Hober will happily sell you whatever length tie you want. If 57" is a little short, but 63" is slightly longer than you'd like, you could get something in between in length. (Various other factors can also be customized, but since you don't seem to be a necktie expert, I'd recommend seeking out Mr. Hober's advice, before departing too far from the default.)

Just suggesting that it might be something worth considering, is all.

I have no experience with Kent Wang shoes, so I can't comment on whether they're worth buying.
post #26886 of 28869
Quick question: got a new MTM, everything is perfect, just that jacket waist is slightly too tapered. Is it possible to let out the waist of a pinstripe jacket? I'm asking as I was thinking if it would ruin the pattern of the vertical stripes where the materials will be added? (Unless that's not the method to let out a suit).

Thanks in advance.
post #26887 of 28869
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post
 

So I picked up this jacket because I love luciano Barbera CS and it was on a super discounted price but now I'm stuck on what to pair it with, I can't seem to get it right.

 

What would you pair it with for pants and shoes? I'm thinking maybe light blues for shirting options.

IMO it would look fantastic with off-white/natural coloured pants, and a light blue shirt like you suggested. For footwear some light brown suede shoes/chukkas would finish it off nicely.

 

Oh and personally I wouldn't pair it with navy blue or brown pants as previously suggested. I think the navy blue is too dark and heavy in comparison, and the brown is not "summery" enough to match the blazer. But thats just my opinion, and I'm far from experienced in this.

post #26888 of 28869
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevey6404 View Post

Quick question: got a new MTM, everything is perfect, just that jacket waist is slightly too tapered. Is it possible to let out the waist of a pinstripe jacket? I'm asking as I was thinking if it would ruin the pattern of the vertical stripes where the materials will be added? (Unless that's not the method to let out a suit).

Thanks in advance.

Yes. Letting out or taking in the waist of a jacket is a reasonably common alteration. They don't add new material, they use the margins built into the existing seams. They'll open up the old seam and resew it with a little less in the margin, giving you more room, and keeping the pattern entirely intact. Due to the fact that they can only work with the material they have, there's a limit to how much they can let out, but if you only need a little, they should be able to do it.
post #26889 of 28869
Quote:
Originally Posted by AAJJLLPP View Post
 

IMO it would look fantastic with off-white/natural coloured pants, and a light blue shirt like you suggested. For footwear some light brown suede shoes/chukkas would finish it off nicely.

 

Oh and personally I wouldn't pair it with navy blue or brown pants as previously suggested. I think the navy blue is too dark and heavy in comparison, and the brown is not "summery" enough to match the blazer. But thats just my opinion, and I'm far from experienced in this.

 

+1 for cream


I think a lighter blue might work really well as well. A nice pair of sand colored chino's might work too, and I honestly think that a dark wash pair of jeans would rock as well.

post #26890 of 28869
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Chung View Post

I foolishly tried neatsfoot oil on my dress shoes and now I've got greasy shoes that I can't raise a shine on. It's been over 24 hours and I they are still in a poor state. Any suggestions as to how to dry them out?

Leather cleaner? Something like the lexol cleaner, maybe even saddle soap?

I would also ask this in the shoe care thread.
post #26891 of 28869
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12345Michael54321 View Post
 
Quote:
FWIW I've never had a problem wearing standard length ties but the back is often quite short.
If you haven't any problem with standard length ties, then you can wear standard length ties. If the back is shorter than you'd like, feel free to buy longer ties, so the back will be longer. Or, if the shirt collar and your personal taste support it, try a different type of knot.

At 6'3", 170 lbs., with a 16" collar, I wouldn't be surprised if you were better off with a 63" tie. On the other hand, neither would I be shocked if a 57" tie were fine. What it comes down to is, you've got to put on a tie, and ask yourself whether you'd like it better if it were a little longer.


I'd say that "the back is a little short" is absolutely not a problem as long as you can't see the back.  When pant waistbands come back to standard height, the "standard" 57" tie will end up being the "long" length and you'll still be able to wear them.  I'm 6' myself (but with a 14.5" neck), and continuously find that most neckties are way too long for me to wear without getting them shortened to around 50" or so because I like the four-in-hand and the four-in-hand uses much less of the length.

post #26892 of 28869

I was hoping I could get some help with shoe fit.

 

I bought a pair of AE Daltons in an 8.5 E because I thought that was my size after some shoes in other brands fit well in that size. Yeah, not the best idea, but they fit fine when I received them. As they've broken in, they've become looser. I think I could possibly do well with an 8D even, which coincidentally turned out to be my size when the AE rep measured it on a brannock device (this was later).

In any event, I now have shoes that work, but I find myself lacing incredibly tightly so that the tongue and some of the upper near the eyelets actually have rope burn marks from the laces. I was hoping to try to get them to fit a bit better.


What would you recommend? Tongue pad? Insole?


I could also try to sell the boots to buy another pair in the correct size, but I'd need to replace the worn heels and probably lose money in the process of doing that entire exchange so I'd like to avoid that situation if possible. Any advice would be appreciated.

post #26893 of 28869
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

What would you recommend? Tongue pad? Insole?
Both tongue pads and insoles are readily available and affordable. Give them a try.

I find that tongue pads are perhaps better for shoes which are slightly too long, and insoles for shoes which are too... tall... I guess is one way of describing it. (Insoles can also add cushiony comfort, of course.) But these aren't hard and fast rules, so much as they are general tendencies, based on limited personal experience. So go ahead and try both - individually, and together.

And yes, replacing them with a pair in the right size is best. But given the realities of the situation, and the fact that we're talking about a difference of maybe half a size, or one letter in width, I see no reason not to at least try the tongue pad and/or insole options. A pair of tongue pads runs maybe two bucks or so, and Dr. Scholl's offers a money back guarantee on its insoles, so it'd be an inexpensive enough experiment.
post #26894 of 28869
Thanks!
I actually ran by the AE store on the way hone and he said I was between an 8.5 and a 9 and I'm pretty sure last time he said 8 to 8.5 haha.

Another quick question to add to the list...

If a pair of dress pants or chinos are whiskering near the crotch area, does that mean that the cut of the rise isn't right for the wearer?

Also, where do black plain toed Bluchers fit into the shoe hierarchy? Versatile enough to be necessitated? Avoidable? Meh?
Edited by ridethecliche - 3/11/14 at 7:01pm
post #26895 of 28869
Quote:
Originally Posted by MZhammer View Post
 

So I picked up this jacket because I love luciano Barbera CS and it was on a super discounted price but now I'm stuck on what to pair it with, I can't seem to get it right.

 

What would you pair it with for pants and shoes? I'm thinking maybe light blues for shirting options.


Very cool color.

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