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post #25216 of 27512
Quote:
Originally Posted by xndesd View Post
 

I assume that this is a tuxedo/smoking jacket.  Why would you change from a peak?  Traditionally, the peak or shawl lapel is standard for formal wear and notch lapels are for suits.  A notch lapel will never look as formal as a proper peak lapel on a dinner jacket. 9uLlxh

It's notch, and two button, so my guess is he is after a more informal jacket - a velvet blazer, rather than a dinner jacket.

post #25217 of 27512
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kid Nickels View Post

^ sorry bro... I don't see why anyone would take to ridicule an honest question. I have those same shoes in 9.5 D standard width, but even then my feet are more long/narrow. It appears you have crazy wide/thick feet and they certainly should not be so spread over the lacings. If you can I would recommend just finding a local store to try on the wider sizes if possible. Do you have this problem with most of your dress shoes?

 

Thanks. Yes, same problem with my other shoes that I wear in the office. I would definitely give a 9.5 EEE a try.

post #25218 of 27512
Quote:
Originally Posted by LEgoiste View Post

Thanks. Yes, same problem with my other shoes that I wear in the office. I would definitely give a 9.5 EEE a try.

I know the AE wider widths can indeed get pretty wide... but the sizing does vary as the width increases so at some point a super wide 9 may get close to a mid-wide 9.5. I know that's not too illustrative but I hope you catch my drift. Good luck!
post #25219 of 27512
Quote:
Originally Posted by LEgoiste View Post
 

I tried asking on the Allen Edmonds thread but have been ridiculed so far. So, I'm going to ask over here...

 

You're mixing up two things here: the width of your foot, especially the forefoot, and the height of your instep (the top of your foot, where the laces go).

 

As the 9.5E is fitting you OK across the toes, your issue isn't a "wide foot" (at least, not "crazy wide").  It seems to me like this is your proper size.  If in doubt, print out AE's size guide - I found it very accurate for size and width.  Like you, I find some flexibility in trading off width vs length e.g. I am basically a 10E in Allen Edmonds, but a 10.5D can work too.  In your case, I suspect you might be a 9EE/EEE and you're just about getting away with the 9.5E accommodating your forefoot.

 

Anyway, whether 9.5E or 9EE is really your size, I can see why you've also been getting 3E sizes or sizing up: with a derby (blucher), or something similarly unstructured in the upper, like a monk or even an adelaide, the bigger shoe has allowed the upper to stretch over your high instep.  But what you have here is an oxford, with lots of fixed seams in the upper, and even if you get a wider or longer fitting, it still won't allow that extra leather to stretch up over the top of your foot.  I actually have two pairs of shoes, both in wide fittings, in different sizes on the same last from the same maker: the first was a derby, the second I had to size up because it was an oxford and the bottom of the facing was too tight over my foot.

 

In general, I also find the lasts from AE to be shallow in the instep in general.  Not a problem to the degree you have, but noticeable compared to most English makers.  It does vary a bit across the different lasts so it's worth going into an AE store and learning if there's a last that fits you (I have several pairs, but only on two different lasts so I'm not the person to advise).  Getting super-wide or bigger shoes will eventually accommodate the high instep, but end up fitting badly across your toes and probably loose in the heel too.  It's not the answer.

 

I suspect that you have two options: either try a different maker that does shoes with higher insteps - there are plenty of English, Italian, Spanish and other makers in that price range.  Or if it must be AE, you might be more comfortable sticking with bluchers, even though they're less formal.  The "open" lacing allows the tongue/vamp to move up and accommodate your instep, and even though the sides of the facing will still be a little further apart, they will be straight and it won't look so uncomfortable and wrong.  

post #25220 of 27512
Currently, what do people think of Brooks Brothers fit? I work part time at J. Crew and I've thought about jumping over to a Brooks Brothers store. I really love J. Crew but I'm not really getting any hours and there's a BB that's much closer and probably hiring part time. I like a lot of their clothing but I've never really worn it. I'll go try some on but I'm curious as to what others think. J. Crew slim fit pants and regular everything else fits me perfectly. Can I expect to basically find the same fits?
post #25221 of 27512
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

 

You're mixing up two things here: the width of your foot, especially the forefoot, and the height of your instep (the top of your foot, where the laces go).

 

As the 9.5E is fitting you OK across the toes, your issue isn't a "wide foot" (at least, not "crazy wide").  It seems to me like this is your proper size.  If in doubt, print out AE's size guide - I found it very accurate for size and width.  Like you, I find some flexibility in trading off width vs length e.g. I am basically a 10E in Allen Edmonds, but a 10.5D can work too.  In your case, I suspect you might be a 9EE/EEE and you're just about getting away with the 9.5E accommodating your forefoot.

 

Anyway, whether 9.5E or 9EE is really your size, I can see why you've also been getting 3E sizes or sizing up: with a derby (blucher), or something similarly unstructured in the upper, like a monk or even an adelaide, the bigger shoe has allowed the upper to stretch over your high instep.  But what you have here is an oxford, with lots of fixed seams in the upper, and even if you get a wider or longer fitting, it still won't allow that extra leather to stretch up over the top of your foot.  I actually have two pairs of shoes, both in wide fittings, in different sizes on the same last from the same maker: the first was a derby, the second I had to size up because it was an oxford and the bottom of the facing was too tight over my foot.

 

In general, I also find the lasts from AE to be shallow in the instep in general.  Not a problem to the degree you have, but noticeable compared to most English makers.  It does vary a bit across the different lasts so it's worth going into an AE store and learning if there's a last that fits you (I have several pairs, but only on two different lasts so I'm not the person to advise).  Getting super-wide or bigger shoes will eventually accommodate the high instep, but end up fitting badly across your toes and probably loose in the heel too.  It's not the answer.

 

I suspect that you have two options: either try a different maker that does shoes with higher insteps - there are plenty of English, Italian, Spanish and other makers in that price range.  Or if it must be AE, you might be more comfortable sticking with bluchers, even though they're less formal.  The "open" lacing allows the tongue/vamp to move up and accommodate your instep, and even though the sides of the facing will still be a little further apart, they will be straight and it won't look so uncomfortable and wrong.  

 

Thanks so much for your very informative advice! I'm definitely going to have my feet fitted professionally when I return my order in the AE store tomorrow. If a 9.5 EEE Strand doesn't fit, I'll go to with a blucher or head to a Jos A. Bank store and try on their AE Boardroom, which is pretty much a Park Avenue on the 7 last, which has a roomier instep.

post #25222 of 27512

I'd say the Strand just isn't for you.  Going extra wide and up a size kind of proves it, even if it fits.  Give up on that last.  Try an AE last that fits you in your normal size: if there is one, great - then you can even look at made to order options from AE.  But if not, never mind.  This forum has a plethora of intensely nerdy detail on a couple of dozen great shoe makers from $200 up to $2000 and beyond.  So don't settle for something that almost fits.  There's something out there that does, and plenty of information to point you in the right direction.

post #25223 of 27512

Hi,

I should have posted this here all along:

I'm going to buy several pairs of these, as a few Marcoliani. My question is where do you buy yours, and does it matter?

 

I see Amazon has a 3pack for $12, Kohl's for 21, Nordstrom for roughly the same. Does the point of purchase matter in terms of quality? I read a few posts on this site that some people get their Windsor's from TJ Maxx for $1/pair, which is ridiculous. I went on the TJMaxx website to verify that they sell them at all, but dead-ended when they only posted women's clothing. Anyone else ever buy these socks for <$3/pair?

 

Also, Mercoliani has Navy for $25 on Amazon. Are these of the same quality as buying it through their website or some other official place and less expensive as well?

 

These pretty much cover it for solids. Do you guys have any rec's on OTC wool patterned socks?

post #25224 of 27512

Hello, SF, I've just begun my journey with classic clothing and with it comes one dillema regarding my first proper suit. I've lurked around and educated myself but there is one thing that I were unable to find a definite answer to.

I've been looking around for a RTW suit with my girlfriend and I'm not quite sure how what to look for in a way. I mean, I know the basics of fit, but I'm uncertain how much can I settle for in an off the rack suit. I've read that a jacket should fit well on shoulders and collar areas and be of proper length and the rest can be tailored. However, my partner in crime seemed doubtless about the fact that buying an almost good overally fitted suit and having it tailored is not the way to go and that we should look for the closest to ideal fit off the rack and just have the sleeves/pants hemmed.

With all that, please tell me - exactly how much can a decent tailor fit a suit on me? If the jacket is good in shoulders and length is the rest truly easy to fix? What about creasing on sleeves/back if the shoulders seem to fit well, is it a width problem?

Thanks for replies in advance and please bear with my questions if they are in some way stupid :)

post #25225 of 27512
For someone with high instep, will Alden's barrie last fit true to size or should I still size down half a size? (Due to my high instep, I wear clarks desert boots with my regular size too when many people size down half a size)
post #25226 of 27512
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tck13 View Post

Currently, what do people think of Brooks Brothers fit? I work part time at J. Crew and I've thought about jumping over to a Brooks Brothers store. I really love J. Crew but I'm not really getting any hours and there's a BB that's much closer and probably hiring part time. I like a lot of their clothing but I've never really worn it. I'll go try some on but I'm curious as to what others think. J. Crew slim fit pants and regular everything else fits me perfectly. Can I expect to basically find the same fits?

I crew fits me much better than bb across the board. BB is not fitted enough though I'm skinny.

I prefer the j crew styling as well and their Ludlow line is amazing.
post #25227 of 27512

For a 24 year old seeking brown dress shoes, are winged tips acceptable? What about slip ons?

post #25228 of 27512

Wing tips are more casual. I'd go cap toes before wing tips.


Loafers are fine as well.

post #25229 of 27512

This is what I ended up going with last night. I forgot a pocket square when I sprinted out the door to catch my bus.


The tie matched her dress so that rocked!

 

 

post #25230 of 27512

Hi, trying this again...

 

The jacket I'm wearing below is a 44L Samuelsohn with measurments of:

Shoulder seem to seem: 19.5"

Sleeve seem at shoulder to bottom of cuff:25.5"

Chest: 23"

Waist: 22"

Length from the bottom of the collar: 31.5"

 

I'm looking at a Canali 46L on eBay with measurements of:

 

Measurements

Chest 23.5"
Shoulder 19.5"
Sleeve 27" (+1" to let out)
Jacket Waist 22"
Length

33"

 

 

Also, I'm assuming that the buttons are sent separately so that I can have the sleeves tailored and the buttons added after the fact?

 

 

 

I'm just wondering if anyone would have an educated guess as whether the measurements of the new jacket sound like they'd add up to something that a tailor could get to fit me reasonably well? The length would be my biggest concern.

 

 

 

As Always, Thank You

-Bill

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