or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here - Page 1679

post #25171 of 29369

Started to post this  in the AE appreciation thread but my point is more of a question than a comment so...

 

I bought a pair Mactavishes about 6 months ago. They were my first AEs and I was pretty excited. They broke-in in a matter of a couple of weeks and at the moment they feel perfect and they look (in my humble) pretty cool. I do wear them a lot. That said, after about 4 months the rubber part of the heel began to peel away and shortly thereafter the rest of the heel came completely off. I sent them to AE. They fixed them quickly and put new heels on and even sent a loyalty card for $35. Amazing right? Well, not even a week later both heels have a noticeable gap and if you press gently on the heel it pulls a little. I promise I am not doing anything weird to my shoes yet I am a little disappointed.

 

Can anyone recommend a nice wingtip in the 200-300 range that might hold up for me a little better? I like my Mactavishes alot becasue they have a pretty natural toeshape, etc. Any thoughts are appreciated.

post #25172 of 29369

Is this jacket too big? Particularly in the chest/shoulders. 

 

Wife thinks it's a bit boxy in the shoulders....and maybe a little long. It's a 42L, I'm 6'2 with 34 inseam. I know I will need to let the sleeves out (and possibly bring in the waist)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #25173 of 29369

If anything, it's on the shorter side of things, but the length is fine. Definitely looks like there's some padding on the shoulders though.

post #25174 of 29369

Picking up this suit tomorrow from TM Lewin. First time getting a suit there. It looks pretty decent, the key thing is, the price is amazing. Here's the link: http://www.tmlewin.co.uk/Bogart-Regular-Fit-2-Button-Navy-Pinstripe-Suit/46616S,en_GB,pd.html?start=5&cgid=Mens-Suit-Offers&prefn1=colour&prefv1=Navy.

 

And here's it on me (very dark photos apologies): 

 

 

 

Now, the question is, I put the jacket on and it seems like it doesn't need any tailoring, which always makes me nervous. Its not boxy or anything, but I feel under the arms / shoulders could come in a bit. The guy in the shop disagreed and said I needed the room to move. But should I go with my instinct?

 

The thing about these kinds of suits (chalk stripe) is they can be a little bigger than non-stripe suits; gives it that Bertie Wooster look! :-)

post #25175 of 29369
Quote:
Originally Posted by froughtie View Post

Is this jacket too big? Particularly in the chest/shoulders. 

Wife thinks it's a bit boxy in the shoulders....and maybe a little long. It's a 42L, I'm 6'2 with 34 inseam. I know I will need to let the sleeves out (and possibly bring in the waist)


















The shoulder width is fine, but it is structured.. Try a soft shoulder model.
post #25176 of 29369
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post
 


Right, but wearing a bowtie with a suit in that context looks like you're trying to fake a tux.

 

Agreed.  RTC, I suggest your darkest suit, and black grosgrain, or similar, four in hand tie.

post #25177 of 29369
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post


The shoulder width is fine, but it is structured.. Try a soft shoulder model.

 

I concur - it's not the fit, it's just a little incongruent with jeans, especially with the cuffs turned up like that.

post #25178 of 29369
Quote:
Originally Posted by click here View Post

^looks fine to me, but what do I know...

Anyway, my noob question

I recently got my first spread collar shirt from Kamakura.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



I don't usually button my shirt all the way up (I leave 2 or 3 unbuttoned). And this leaves the collar looking funny. I was wondering is there a way to fix this eg Ironing the collar down or getting the tailor to add buttons so that it looks like a OCBD?

 

Why not simply order a OCBD?  Kamakura makes shirts with a beautiful collar roll.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by froughtie View Post
 

Is this jacket too big? Particularly in the chest/shoulders.

 

Wife thinks it's a bit boxy in the shoulders....and maybe a little long. It's a 42L, I'm 6'2 with 34 inseam. I know I will need to let the sleeves out (and possibly bring in the waist)

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Does this button stance seem high to anyone else?  Guess that goes with the trendy part of the short-ish, but acceptable, jacket length.

post #25179 of 29369
Quote:
Originally Posted by ellsbebc View Post
 

Does this button stance seem high to anyone else?  Guess that goes with the trendy part of the short-ish, but acceptable, jacket length.

 

Looking at it again, it is on the higher side, but I would not call it too high.  Just toward the high end of the normal range.  I don't know how tall froughtie is, but the shorter-than-average jacket, with the slightly higher button stance in proportion, can help to create an illusion of more height for us short guys.  When you're wearing separates, this can help you look a bit better, if the whole fit is working.

post #25180 of 29369
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post
 

I'd like to press my bow tie before a party tonight.  Silk, adjustable.  I'm thinking use the silk setting, and put a towel between the tie and the iron.  Yes?  No?  Other?

 

Also, windex on my patent leather?  Saw it in other threads; seems to make sense.  They're these ones, so I assume pretty cheap leather, if it can be even be called that:
http://www.zappos.com/calvin-klein-guilford

 

Cross post from State of Black Tie.  Thoughts?  Suggestions of other threads where I would get a good answer?  Leaving for the party in around 3 or 4 hours.

post #25181 of 29369

ITG: yes - if it really needs it.  And if that's not working, just increase the temperature gradually.  My suggestion for patent shoes is to wipe with a damp cloth and buff with a dry one.  If they do need an extra "zing", then glass or furniture polish would also be my suggestion - but put a bit on the cloth, not on the shoe, or it might spot.

post #25182 of 29369
Quote:
Originally Posted by DjangoV View Post

How can you tell if a jacket is orphaned or odd?

Apart from the jacket in question I did not read an answer as to determine whether a jacket is orphaned or odd. Anyone?

 

I wil probably drop by some thrift shops tommorrow and expect that (based on prior experience) the majority of jackets will be orphaned. The really REALLY obvious I can pick out, but are there any tell-tale signs I should focus on for the less obvious orphans?

post #25183 of 29369
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

If anything, it's on the shorter side of things, but the length is fine. Definitely looks like there's some padding on the shoulders though.

Thanks. weird you think it's short. It's the longest jacket I own

Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

The shoulder width is fine, but it is structured.. Try a soft shoulder model.

It's the last one they had. Should I return it or wear it differently?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

I concur - it's not the fit, it's just a little incongruent with jeans, especially with the cuffs turned up like that.

Thanks, I guess I'll try it on with some proper pants.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

Looking at it again, it is on the higher side, but I would not call it too high.  Just toward the high end of the normal range.  I don't know how tall froughtie is, but the shorter-than-average jacket, with the slightly higher button stance in proportion, can help to create an illusion of more height for us short guys.  When you're wearing separates, this can help you look a bit better, if the whole fit is working.

I'm 6'2, probably 6'4 in that picture since I was wearing tall boots
post #25184 of 29369

Django,

 

Leave the jacket in question, because it looks horrible: dated style, boxy cut, glued lapels possibly, and yes, definitely looks like an orphan.  And if you say "Hugo Boss" on StyleForum, the coordinated weight of sneering might push Los Angeles into the Pacific.

 

It might be easier to ask the question the other way around: what does a sports jacket or blazer look like, against a normal suit jacket?  Most of the former can also look fine as part of a suit, unless perhaps they have swelled seams, that would look odd except perhaps as part of some kind of safari or retro-sporty outfit.  But generally, it's an odd jacket if:

 

- it has no padding in the shoulders or very little; some jackets are very structured, and some suits less, but it's unusual to see a really soft-shouldered suit

 

- it is half-lined; rare on a suit, common on a summer jacket

 

- it has swelled seams, typical of a more casual odd jacket

 

- it has a very heavy and/or soft cloth, that would be hard to maintain a crease in trousers

 

- it has cloth of a very strong texture, e.g. a fluffy herringbone or a donegal tweed; there are such suits, but unusual, largely because, as above, the trousers won't keep any shape

 

- it has a very large or bold pattern; exceptions are found, especially as windowpanes are in vogue on all the style blogs, but you're still unlikely to see a gunclub check suit

 

- it has very contrasting buttons e.g mother of pearl against blue, or light brown against a darker cloth, or brass/gold of course

 

- it has patch pockets or bellows pockets; the former can be put on a suit specifically to make the jacket usable separately without looking like an "orphan" (hence the term "blazer suit), the latter would be unusual unless it's a safari suit

 

Two more differences looking back from your direction, suggesting it might be a suit if:

 

- it has an especially smooth or shiny tone

 

- it has a style and colour that is very classic-business e.g. a pin or chalk stripe on blue, charcoal or grey, or a very fine herringbone or birdseye in one of those colours.

 

Oh, and there are not many double-breasted odd jackets.  Though I had one made recently!

 

Those are a few things off the top of my head.  So in the case of your nasty Hugo Boss number, some giveaways that it's an orphan are the besom ("jetted) pockets, the light, smooth cloth, the carefully understated matching buttons, and the lack of any other distinguishing personality.  It looks a lot like a jacket that's supposed to blend, rather than contrast.  Maybe that's the point.

post #25185 of 29369
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

Django,

 

Leave the jacket in question, because it looks horrible: dated style, boxy cut, glued lapels possibly, and yes, definitely looks like an orphan.  And if you say "Hugo Boss" on StyleForum, the coordinated weight of sneering might push Los Angeles into the Pacific.

 

It might be easier to ask the question the other way around: what does a sports jacket or blazer look like, against a normal suit jacket?  Most of the former can also look fine as part of a suit, unless perhaps they have swelled seams, that would look odd except perhaps as part of some kind of safari or retro-sporty outfit.  But generally, it's an odd jacket if:

 

- it has no padding in the shoulders or very little; some jackets are very structured, and some suits less, but it's unusual to see a really soft-shouldered suit

 

- it is half-lined; rare on a suit, common on a summer jacket

 

- it has swelled seams, typical of a more casual odd jacket

 

- it has a very heavy and/or soft cloth, that would be hard to maintain a crease in trousers

 

- it has cloth of a very strong texture, e.g. a fluffy herringbone or a donegal tweed; there are such suits, but unusual, largely because, as above, the trousers won't keep any shape

 

- it has a very large or bold pattern; exceptions are found, especially as windowpanes are in vogue on all the style blogs, but you're still unlikely to see a gunclub check suit

 

- it has very contrasting buttons e.g mother of pearl against blue, or light brown against a darker cloth, or brass/gold of course

 

- it has patch pockets or bellows pockets; the former can be put on a suit specifically to make the jacket usable separately without looking like an "orphan" (hence the term "blazer suit), the latter would be unusual unless it's a safari suit

 

Two more differences looking back from your direction, suggesting it might be a suit if:

 

- it has an especially smooth or shiny tone

 

- it has a style and colour that is very classic-business e.g. a pin or chalk stripe on blue, charcoal or grey, or a very fine herringbone or birdseye in one of those colours.

 

Oh, and there are not many double-breasted odd jackets.  Though I had one made recently!

 

Those are a few things off the top of my head.  So in the case of your nasty Hugo Boss number, some giveaways that it's an orphan are the besom ("jetted) pockets, the light, smooth cloth, the carefully understated matching buttons, and the lack of any other distinguishing personality.  It looks a lot like a jacket that's supposed to blend, rather than contrast.  Maybe that's the point.

Thanks for the detailed answer. Exactly what I wanted to know. The Hugo Boss in question was already of the table minutes after I initially posted.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here