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post #24796 of 28744

I have one too. What is the best way to draft a coat pattern with the optimal arm scye depth: front scye, back scye or distance from base of scye to centre point (using a centre point cutting system)? And what other subsidiary arm scye measurements are essential?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Freestyle Motocross Pants

 

post #24797 of 28744

Isolation,

 

I don't dislike the look of DMs, but now they're all £100+, and there are so many "proper" shoes at that price, you should shop around.  There are plenty of chukka and chelsea boots (the two styles you showed) about for that price or even less.  For decent value, look at Loake or Barker, or shoes they make for the likes of Charles Tyrwhitt that are often on clearance. 

 

In your shoes, so to speak, I would recommend www.herringshoes.co,uk or www.pediwear.co.uk  You can search by size and style and find something you like.  Get a goodyear welted boot, with a double leather or Dainite-type sole if you like a heavier look.  I'd advise you not to go with a chelsea boot though: the elasticated sides and thick sole don't mix, as it will tend to pull off your heel as you walk, especially at the beginning.  

 

Also, if you want a more casual style, black is harder to wear.  Look at browns and tans, maybe brogued boots especially for the winter.  They look fantastic with jeans too, while perfectly acceptable with a jacket and chinos.

 

Show us what you get. :)

 

 

Wayne,

 

Go to the tailoring thread.  This is the thread where you get ill-informed amateur responses.  That one's for the skilled professionals you need.

post #24798 of 28744

Idk, I feel Doc Martens are best suited for women, but that's just me. 

post #24799 of 28744
Quote:
Originally Posted by MMoon24 View Post
 

I forgot to ask this, and I hope you can respond. Since I'm not very knowledgeable about suits...I also seemed to admire the Brooks Brothers Milano line. Would that also fall into the same "fashion-victim stuff" you are talking about?

 

The jacket on the model is way too short and I would be surprised if it is much longer on you.

post #24800 of 28744
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waynethomas View Post

I have one too. What is the best way to draft a coat pattern with the optimal arm scye depth: front scye, back scye or distance from base of scye to centre point (using a centre point cutting system)? And what other subsidiary arm scye measurements are essential?

Try the cutter and tailor forum, http://www.cutterandtailor.com/
post #24801 of 28744

Thanks!

 

Yeah I did suspect that guys here are more interested in slightly more dressy shoes/styles, but like I'm more familiar with these forums generally speaking. Thanks for your advice, I'll look into those, and post if I end up getting something.

 

I was just going with DMs before because they have a standard of quality that I am familiar with and can trust. I've only recently been upgrading my wardrobe, so I'm wary of going into unknown territory, that's why I went with them as my safe choices. Obviously I'd be happy to look at better alternatives, so thanks for your suggestions.

 

Something like these?

http://www.pediwear.co.uk/loake/products/2861.php

http://www.pediwear.co.uk/loake/products/2518.php

 

Honestly, I am fairly clueless about shoes, or how to judge their quality (that, and ties, but I'm going to work on my shoes first I think). I wonder if there are any quick resources to getting into higher tier shoes? I HAVE looked at a bunch of shoe threads, and I think I can appreciate a good shoe, and I've picked up some sense of what's good and what's not, etc, but some more precise style/matching/etiquette guides/articles would be great if you can point me to a direction.

post #24802 of 28744
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

Thanks!

 

Yeah I did suspect that guys here are more interested in slightly more dressy shoes/styles, but like I'm more familiar with these forums generally speaking. Thanks for your advice, I'll look into those, and post if I end up getting something.

 

I was just going with DMs before because they have a standard of quality that I am familiar with and can trust. I've only recently been upgrading my wardrobe, so I'm wary of going into unknown territory, that's why I went with them as my safe choices. Obviously I'd be happy to look at better alternatives, so thanks for your suggestions.

 

Something like these?

http://www.pediwear.co.uk/loake/products/2861.php

http://www.pediwear.co.uk/loake/products/2518.php

 

Honestly, I am fairly clueless about shoes, or how to judge their quality (that, and ties, but I'm going to work on my shoes first I think). I wonder if there are any quick resources to getting into higher tier shoes? I HAVE looked at a bunch of shoe threads, and I think I can appreciate a good shoe, and I've picked up some sense of what's good and what's not, etc, but some more precise style/matching/etiquette guides/articles would be great if you can point me to a direction.

 

Loake is a good choice, the 200 line, however is not - the leather is corrected grain. Have a look at the Loake 1880 series, which has full grain leather.

 

Also, a black loafer doesn't make sense as a shoe, as black is a highly formal color for shoes and loafer is an informal shoe. If you want a loafer go for brown or burgundy. If you want a highly formal shoe, go for a black cap toe oxford.

 

This illustration may be useful as well, but do take not of the note on it: http://i.imgur.com/2XNzY.png

 

Edit: Just read that you are looking for a casual shoe. Therefore rule out black and go for brown or burgundy in brogue and/or suede. Have a look at the Loake 1880s, I'm sure you'll find a shoe you like there. If you're looking for slightly cheaper options, but still full grain leather, you can also have a look at http://meermin.es/catalogo.php?id=1

post #24803 of 28744

Hey, thanks, I've been checking those out. Nice.

 

The thing is I mostly wear medium gray, charcoal and black suits/trousers (black hair goes okay with black I think, and I usually wear them at night), and I understand that brown doesn't go well with those? Actually what DOES go with brown shoes?

 

I mean when I say casual I mean a dressy kind of casual like celebratory events, parties, the like, usually at night and so on, if that makes sense, so I get to wear bolder, sharper colors, and since I don't really wear jeans on those occasions, I don't know how easily I can use brown. I understand black is seen as a really boring choice (and basically taboo for trousers/suits), but it's the color I generally work with along with gray.

post #24804 of 28744

Gentlemen:

[IMG]http://cdnd.lystit.com/photos/2013/10/19/gap-pearl-lambswool-cableknit-shawl-cardigan-product-1-14257594-160747583_large_flex.jpeg[/IMG]

Opinions? Seems to me like a piece I can wear both casually and with dark slacks + tie.

post #24805 of 28744
Quote:
Originally Posted by MMoon24 View Post

...I also seemed to admire the Brooks Brothers Milano line. Would that also fall into the same "fashion-victim stuff" you are talking about?


Not at all. Milano is a traditionally styled suit cut a bit slimmer and with proportionately slimmer lapels. The trousers have a bit lower rise than other BB cuts. You will not wear the same size in BB Milano that you wear in a more traditional fit like Madison.
post #24806 of 28744
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

Hey, thanks, I've been checking those out. Nice.

 

The thing is I mostly wear medium gray, charcoal and black suits/trousers (black hair goes okay with black I think, and I usually wear them at night), and I understand that brown doesn't go well with those? Actually what DOES go with brown shoes?

 

I mean when I say casual I mean a dressy kind of casual like celebratory events, parties, the like, usually at night and so on, if that makes sense, so I get to wear bolder, sharper colors, and since I don't really wear jeans on those occasions, I don't know how easily I can use brown. I understand black is seen as a really boring choice (and basically taboo for trousers/suits), but it's the color I generally work with along with gray.

 

If you go for a dark-brown shoe it goes with pretty much everything, except for black (which I think should be avoided anyway). I like it when the shoes are not brighter than the rest of the outfit - or it gets brighter from bottom to top.

 

For anything but formal events brown/burgundy > black shoes imo.

 

I think the bolder colors with dark hair apply more for shirts etc. than shoes, as the former are closer to the face. 

post #24807 of 28744
Hey, I definitely get what you're saying about not worrying about brand, which I am not. I guess my concern is more or less about finding the fine line between not having something overly baggy on me vs something that's too slim that it wouldn't be respected in the long run.

Anyways, next question: What's the difference between a town coat, overcoat, and long coat? I guess it has something to do with the length, but is that it?
post #24808 of 28744
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terpo View Post
 

 

If you go for a dark-brown shoe it goes with pretty much everything, except for black (which I think should be avoided anyway). I like it when the shoes are not brighter than the rest of the outfit - or it gets brighter from bottom to top.

 

For anything but formal events brown/burgundy > black shoes imo.

 

I think the bolder colors with dark hair apply more for shirts etc. than shoes, as the former are closer to the face. 

 

Yeah what I mean is sometimes I wear black trousers or suits, or dark gray, which is doesn't go well with brown shoes or at least lighter brown ones. I'll probably get a brown pair as my second or third new pair.

 

Generally speaking are Loakes durable? Or would going for a higher tier for shoes going to prove more cost efficient in the long run? Speaking strictly of durability/presentability of a shoe I plan on wearing a lot, not the relative value of spending money on a great looking shoe and what not. I've been told that cheaper shoes wear out so fast that it's not even worth it even if you don't care too much about the looks, but I'm not sure whether these fall above or on that category, I'm hoping the former.

post #24809 of 28744

Iso,

 

Don't get overly worried about the "corrected grain" obsession here: the fact is, shoes under about £150 are going to have pretty ordinary leather, and often polished/corrected/sanded/coated/pick your euphemism for "fucked about with to compensate for its poorness".  It's rather irrelevant to say "don't get the L1 range, get the 1880 range" when the latter costs three times' the former.  Get the John Lobbs instead of the 1880s.  Etc.  If your budget it around £100, we can find something that might be lesser leather, but looks alright nonetheless. Never fear.

 

So, let's go back to the beginning: how many pairs of shoes do you think you want, and how much are you going to spend?  Uncle mimo will suggest good things, or at least the least bad things, for your dough.

 

Also, get a navy suit. Keep the grey.  Ease out the black.  We'll have you in tweed by this time next year.

post #24810 of 28744
Isolation - I was just going to say to bear in mind that it's mostly american advice you'll get here which will favour brown shoes, but as a Londoner you'll find more use for black than the average SFer, which is just fine. But listen to mimo, he'll see you right in any case.
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