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post #24751 of 28550

Is there a way to know how much the tailor can let the waist out? I gained some pounds and it was a bit tight before but definitely too tight now
Is 1-1.5 inches standard or is there an actual way to tell
post #24752 of 28550
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wade View Post


Is there a way to know how much the tailor can let the waist out? I gained some pounds and it was a bit tight before but definitely too tight now
Is 1-1.5 inches standard or is there an actual way to tell

You can tell by looking at how much margin there is on the inside.
post #24753 of 28550
Quote:
Originally Posted by othertravel View Post

The shoulders look fine.

+1 it's the British cut, not a soft shouldered American / Italian style. A little shoulder overhang is often a good thing.


It's often the blind leading the blind in this thread...
post #24754 of 28550
Which black and white tie would you get first, houndstooth, or shepherd check?

Any reason or just personal preference?

J
post #24755 of 28550
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ich_Dien View Post


+1 it's the British cut, not a soft shouldered American / Italian style. A little shoulder overhang is often a good thing.


It's often the blind leading the blind in this thread...

 

Because it is difficult to convey tone over the internet, I'd like to say firstly that I am genuinely asking you this, not being argumentative or defensive.

 

I know it is hard to tell from a picture online, unless there is blatant dimpling, but how do you personally determine the correct amount of overhang? I have always looked for minimal overhang, and have been under the impression that the strong British shoulders were built up, not out, and should still have minimal overhang.

 

A few of my suits (usually ones I've bought online) have a bit more overhang than I like, and while I don't look bad in them, I perpetually feel that they are like half a size too big.

 

J

post #24756 of 28550
The vast majority of the British tailors (and RTW) use an extended shoulder, more often than not with slight roping. The British examples I have are cut like that and if it didn't have the padding associated with the British style, you're right, it would look too big. However, it doesn't and serves merely to promote the much sought after "V" shape in tailoring.

I'm very slightly built as I cycle about 250-300km a week. Now I love Italian soft tailoring but one lesson that should be learnt very quickly on this forum by all is that you cannot always wear what you love, you have to wear what suits you and enhances your body shape. If I was wearing a very soft Italian style garment you would see my torso for what it is, i.e. hardly any shoulder mass and not much of a drop between chest and waist. What the British style does for me, however, by extending the shoulders slightly then building up the chest is mask that very well indeed.

I don't personally determine the correct amount of extension, a job best left to others...

A few examples of my own -


Edward Sexton:

Picture1-7.png
Picture2-2.png

Kilgour:

ScreenShot2013-11-23at165426.png

New & Lingwood MTM:

ScreenShot2013-11-23at164831.png

Prorsum:

ScreenShot2013-11-23at164809.png
post #24757 of 28550
Quote:
Originally Posted by J011yroger View Post

Which black and white tie would you get first, houndstooth, or shepherd check?

Any reason or just personal preference?

J

I'll bite.  As much as I love houndstooth it can be a bit dizzying in black and white and on a tie like that.  Personal preference on this one would be shepherd check.  

post #24758 of 28550

Do any of you guys have any suggestions for some warmer/thicker dress pants?

post #24759 of 28550
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ich_Dien View Post

The vast majority of the British tailors (and RTW) use an extended shoulder, more often than not with slight roping. The British examples I have are cut like that and if it didn't have the padding associated with the British style, you're right, it would look too big. However, it doesn't and serves merely to promote the much sought after "V" shape in tailoring.

I'm very slightly built as I cycle about 250-300km a week. Now I love Italian soft tailoring but one lesson that should be learnt very quickly on this forum by all is that you cannot always wear what you love, you have to wear what suits you and enhances your body shape. If I was wearing a very soft Italian style garment you would see my torso for what it is, i.e. hardly any shoulder mass and not much of a drop between chest and waist. What the British style does for me, however, by extending the shoulders slightly then building up the chest is mask that very well indeed.

I don't personally determine the correct amount of extension, a job best left to others...

A few examples of my own -

 

 

Thanks for taking the time to reply, and yea, I am a tennis player, and built like the prototypical one, so I understand about not being able to wear something. Zenga suits in particular look like hell on me. Beautiful on the rack, and then I put the thing on, and I look like a used car salesman.

 

I always felt that with roped shoulders that the torso section of the jacket should end in the same place as with a natural shoulder, and then the roped sleeve kind of bolstered the silouette a bit. Next time I get a rainy weekend that I try to kill at the mall, I will have to try on a bunch of jackets and be a bit more open minded.

 

J

post #24760 of 28550
Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleroller View Post
 

I'll bite.  As much as I love houndstooth it can be a bit dizzying in black and white and on a tie like that.  Personal preference on this one would be shepherd check.  

 

I am in the market for a shepherd check, but saw a nice houndstooth on someone, and thought it might be a good/different substitute. Given my unwillingness to pay full price for anything I will probably buy the first one I get a good deal on. 

 

I appreciate your opinion, and you kind of echoed my suspicion that the Shepherd would be a bit more useful.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleroller View Post
 

Do any of you guys have any suggestions for some warmer/thicker dress pants?

 

I love the RL flannel pants, but there has to be a better value pair out there. I saw some Lord and Taylor house branded ones (Black and Brown maybe is the brand? I forget.) that weren't terrible, but didn't blow me away.

 

I love wearing cords in the fall/winter, but they are too casual for most things, tough to beat charcoal, and mid gray flannel.

 

J

post #24761 of 28550

Hello,

 

Would appreciate any help on this. I wear UK size 8 on the loake aldwych. Am contemplating ordering AE Mora and Broadstreet. Does anyone know what size would work best - 8.5 (on the US measurement which AE use) ? Or are there any differences I should be aware of ? I only ask as I tried using the sizing guide on the AE website and I seem to be 11.5 (which cant be right and I must be doing something wrong).

 

thanks

post #24762 of 28550
Quote:
Originally Posted by Staffer18283 View Post

Hello,

Would appreciate any help on this. I wear UK size 8 on the loake aldwych. Am contemplating ordering AE Mora and Broadstreet. Does anyone know what size would work best - 8.5 (on the US measurement which AE use) ? Or are there any differences I should be aware of ? I only ask as I tried using the sizing guide on the AE website and I seem to be 11.5 (which cant be right and I must be doing something wrong).

thanks

Make sure the sizing guide is printing full size and Acrobat isn't scaling it. Generally I think AE is UK +1 so I would bet you are a US 9. Different lasts fit differently but that's where I'd start anyway.
post #24763 of 28550
Guys, I have a question to ask.

Long story short, I bought a suit from Hackett last Friday with all of the alterations done in house. So far they have managed to screw up twice; first time (yesterday) was forget to send the trouser to the tailor for it to be tapered and the second time (today) I realise they haven't done anything to the waist at all.

Now would I be too evil/unethical to ask for a refund on the alterations charges for the trouser? I mean I honestly don't expect this to happen; especially for a retailer of this calibre and this is their flagship store by the way.

Thanks all.
post #24764 of 28550

repost: If you have a finished jacket with surgeons cuffs, is it possible to taper the sleeve so the cuff opening is smaller?

post #24765 of 28550

Just came back from the Burberry store. My friend who works there is offering me a 50% discount on whatever suit I purchase along with any additional tailoring being taken care of. I have two questions...

 

http://us.burberry.com/slim-fit-virgin-wool-silk-suit-p38691481

 

1. I will be using this suit for evening/formal events. Mind you, in my culture, we don't wear tuxedos to weddings, so this suit may also come in handy for those situations.

 

2. Burberry doesn't sell matching vests. If I choose to go 3 piece, any advice on what vest I should look for to ensure it doesn't look too off?

 

3. Can I get away with wearing this at work as well? I noticed it has some silk in it, giving it a bit of a shiny effect.

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