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post #23101 of 28237
Quote:

Hey all,

 

Looking for feedback on a bespoke suit I recently had made for me at Alan David Custom in NYC relating to the sleeves.   It looks to me like there is some pulling in the sleeves up by the shoulder.  Do you think the sleeve pitch/rotation is off and I there something I can do about it?  Thanks in advance.  

 

 


Edited by bklyndoc12 - 8/4/13 at 12:56pm

 

 

It's a little hard to tell from the photo quality, but it looks like shoulder shirring. Which, for the record, is not a defect, but an aesthetic choice. It would be easier to tell if you snapped a photo of the side of the jacket without your arm in it. If the ripples are still there, then you have shirring. If not (and again, it's hard to tell from the photo you have, but it's not hard to tell if it was on purpose) then you might have some pulling in the shoulder, but since this is bespoke, that's pretty unlikely.

 

http://www.bespokenn.com/post/5277648787/what-is-a-neapolitan-jacket

 

Look at shoulders in the jacket from the link. You'll notice the distinctive ripples of shirring at the shoulder compared to say, most other jackets which have perfect lines at the shoulder.

post #23102 of 28237

Can my suit jacket sleeves be lengthened if my tailor has already shortened them? How much longer should they be?

 

700

post #23103 of 28237
Quote:
Originally Posted by brightoner View Post

Can my suit jacket sleeves be lengthened if my tailor has already shortened them? How much longer should they be?

They should not be a single millimeter longer. They're perfect as is.
post #23104 of 28237
Quote:
Originally Posted by becnal View Post


They should not be a single millimeter longer. They're perfect as is.


Glad to hear it, thanks! I am driving myself nuts trying to get the proportions right for my wedding. Is the shirt sleeve length good too?

post #23105 of 28237

becnal is right, to me it seems perfect as well.

both the suit and shirt sleeves are good imo :)
 

post #23106 of 28237
Quote:
Originally Posted by brightoner View Post

Glad to hear it, thanks! I am driving myself nuts trying to get the proportions right for my wedding. Is the shirt sleeve length good too?

Perfect.
post #23107 of 28237
Gents,

I would like to taper and slim down the legs of some of my suit pants. see pics.
How doable is this? I am freaking out at the thought that the tailor ruining them or something.



*
post #23108 of 28237
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudals1281 View Post

How are RLBL shoes regarded? I have a pair and I am happy with them. I would like to get another cap toe under for $600~$1,000. Any suggestions? Tramezza? Botched spelling fo sho~

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

I can't speak from personal experience, but according to this thread (http://www.styleforum.net/t/94886/ralph-lauren-lines-and-who-makes-what-a-definitive-guide/0_100), albeit a bit old, RLBL shoes are made by Crockett&Jones, which is highly esteemed here - check if they are "Made in England". If they are made in Italy, I don't know the maker.

 

Also check this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by sartort View Post

If Ralph Lauren is in script, followed by "Made In England" = Edward Green If Ralph Lauren is in block letters, followed by "Made in England" = Crockett & Jones If Polo is followed by "Benchmade in England" = Crockett & Jones If Ralph Lauren is in block letters the shoes are usually made in Italy by a mystery maker, perhaps Sutor as mentioned previously.
 

Budget of $600-$1000 gives you access to most RTW brands - Edward Green, G&G, Crockett&Jones handgrade, Vass, ... Ideally you should go for what you can try on.

post #23109 of 28237
Could someone offer me advice on quality for Brooks Brothers for Jeffrey clothing?
Specifically... these pants. http://shop.nordstrom.com/s/brooks-brothers-by-jeffrey-wool-trousers/3449003

The fit is great, however I'm curious about it being unlined, and its slight see through nature against light although not while wearing. http://i.imgur.com/XRztZKG.jpg
My issue is cost versus quality ratio. Paid about ~120 , which is on the highest end of my dress pants budget.

Thanks in advance!
post #23110 of 28237

Sorry Double Post:

Could someone tell me who made these RLBL shoes? Sorry about the upside down pick. It says MADE IN ITALY

post #23111 of 28237

Polo University Club line? Anyone know anything about the brand / quality? I found a jacket thrifting that was one size too small for me, but seemed solid aside from that. I see a few jackets going for pretty cheap on eBay, so I know it doesn't rank up with RL's luxury stuff. I was mostly just curious about the brand itself, as it's a Polo line I'm not familiar with. Thanks.

post #23112 of 28237
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudals1281 View Post

Sorry Double Post:

Could someone tell me who made these RLBL shoes? Sorry about the upside down pick. It says MADE IN ITALY

 

Crockett and Jones I believe?

post #23113 of 28237
Hey guys I've been looking for a certain coat for quite a while. You might think this one is actually rather widespread but since i am looking for this one in particular it is hard to find for me. I really strive to acquire this coat once I find the exact same one but unfortunately I can't. Please help me out, I am really desperate, for I have been doing alot of research without success.
So here is the article of clothing I am talking about: ariana-grande-wicked-broadway-jai-brooks.jpg
Edited by -zero - 8/8/13 at 3:16pm
post #23114 of 28237
Quote:
Originally Posted by minervau View Post


I'd guess 15/32 or possibly a 14.5/32 or thereabouts. I am 5'8" 150 and wear a 15.5/32, for reference.

In previous shirt brands, what have your neck and sleeve length measurements been?

The thing to keep in mind with shirt measurements (perhaps this is just stating the obvious) is that the neck has to fit, and the sleeve length is pegged to the length of your arms, so those are the only two dimensions that you need to know. Whether the shirt fits your body or not is a product of the maker's cut and cannot be fixed by dropping to a different size of neck or sleeve, since those will just fit you wrong in those two elements.

My suggestion is to buy one shirt with a neck and sleeve length that is right for you, and hope it fits well. I've found that Tyrwhitt ESF is slimmer fitting than Brooks ESF, for what it's worth, and a more athletic cut (more drop between chest and waist). If you are skinny-skinny with relatively little drop, then Brooks ESF may actually be better.

Went to Brook Brothers today and tried on an 14.5/32 in their esf

Should be the same in Charles tyrwhitt?

post #23115 of 28237
Should be. Some brands add a bit of extra in there to account for shrinkage.

Note that those measurements are just the neck and sleeves, the body of the shirt will fit differently.
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