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post #22756 of 29411
^^ Well many members here do pretty well with the travelling tailor model, and I'm sure someone from the Row must visit DC, so I wouldn't rule it out completely. Just be aware of the likely timescale.
post #22757 of 29411
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjester View Post

We just had this discussion at the Kent Wang thread. The general consensus was, if you're paying good money for a product, it should come with a fabric label to help future resale. Not to mention maybe cleaning and maintenance.

I don't think he was talking about the physical label, but rather the brand.
post #22758 of 29411

Right.  I get that fit is going to be most important; however, my concern was with paying too much for an OTR (or is it RTW?) brand that is known to use cheaper materials or no hold up over time.

post #22759 of 29411
Quote:
Originally Posted by E,TF View Post

^^ Well many members here do pretty well with the travelling tailor model, and I'm sure someone from the Row must visit DC, so I wouldn't rule it out completely. Just be aware of the likely timescale.

 

That's true, but that for me makes it a bad value proposition - something akin to choosing RTW by the label: unless no tailors on the Eastern Seaboard are as good as any tailors on the Row.  Possible, but I think a stretch.

post #22760 of 29411
Quote:
Originally Posted by becnal View Post

Gifted? I don't think that means what you think that means.

Sorry, I couldn't help myself.

Ahem... We're you given a new store-bought tux that you could exchange for the correct size? If so, do so. If not, have a tailor do the best they can do.
The tux was not store-bought so no way to exchange. I'll take it to my tailor this weekend to see what she can do.
I have to attend a black tie wedding next month and was looking to avoid purchasing or renting a cheap tux.

Thanks for the feedback guys.
post #22761 of 29411
Quote:
Originally Posted by kashmir View Post

@sean annon yeah i agree it's difficult to find classic length and button stance nowadays. as a younger guy i have something with about the same length and we are the same height, but i dont use it as a sc in the traditional sense, but rather with grey jeans and tees, unbuttoned.. kinda like a rigid cardigan. definitely not with full cut dress trousers. button ups, probably, but always unbuttoned.

my two cents


Thanks.  I definitely don't want to wear this with T shirts but also not dress trousers.  This is cotton/linen and 1/4 linen so very light

post #22762 of 29411
Very faint (what appear to be) dryer burn marks on a blue dress shirt - am I f'ed or is there any way to fade it out?

Nothing will be noticed under a jacket but I'd like to be able to wear the shirt without one, too.

The marks are a faint yellowish color.
post #22763 of 29411
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post


I've no idea about tailors in DC, but there are certainly plenty in NY, and I'm sure others can recommend someone to you.

Go to Morty Sills. Tell him I sent you.
post #22764 of 29411
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

Very faint (what appear to be) dryer burn marks on a blue dress shirt - am I f'ed or is there any way to fade it out?

Nothing will be noticed under a jacket but I'd like to be able to wear the shirt without one, too.

The marks are a faint yellowish color.

Not exactly sure what it looks like on your shirt, but this could be from a broken/damaged seal around the drum of the dryer and may actually be grease. You should definitely look for anything brown around the rim and if you see anything at all then get it repaired. They sell drum seal kits just for this purpose, it's a common failure.

post #22765 of 29411
Quote:
Originally Posted by atoms View Post

Not exactly sure what it looks like on your shirt, but this could be from a broken/damaged seal around the drum of the dryer and may actually be grease. You should definitely look for anything brown around the rim and if you see anything at all then get it repaired. They sell drum seal kits just for this purpose, it's a common failure.

Here's the stain in question - all on one of the sleeves though that part probably doesn't much matter.
post #22766 of 29411

Bought a Tom Ford houndstooth sport coat two years ago (winter white and black). Have a couple of shirts that I wear with it (solid aqua, solid purple, dark medallion print, and black t-shirt). Looking for more ideas. Got any suggestions?

post #22767 of 29411
Anything other than those. Light blue? White/light blue stripe, depending on the scale of the houndstooth?
post #22768 of 29411

Looking for a inexpensive black leather dress belt that i wouldn't be wearing on the daily

Any recommendations?

post #22769 of 29411
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudals1281 View Post

I am looking for a new suit and as much as I want to just blow $3k on a Zegna, all I see all over SF is bespoke or buy it for $800 or something. If bespoke where do I start? Arggggg!!!!!!!!

Hey Rudals! I know exactly how you feel! I would suggest looking for a suit shop that sells all types of brands, both designer and less known brands, this way you have a variety to shop from. Just because a suit isn't 3000 dollars doesn't mean it isn't high quality. Most of the time you are just paying for the name anyways. Look for a store that also does in house tailoring. This way once you find your perfect suit, you can immediately have it sized for tailoring! Most stores that do in house tailoring are cheaper too! Hope this helped! 

post #22770 of 29411

So I spoke with Allen Edmonds the other day...

 

 

Conversation:

Please wait for a site operator to respond.

J: Hello.  How may I assist you?

A: Hi. I was wondering about the Woodstock dress loafers.

A: Are they made with corrected grain or full grain leather?

J: Just a moment. Let me check.

A: And also I was wondering about the Cahill dress loafers.

A: Thank you.

J: The manufacturing manager is wondering what you mean by corrected grain compared to full grain leather.

J: He did say that these are genuine tanned calf skin leathers.

A: Well... corrected grain leather is leather that has had an artificial grain applied to its surface - the imperfections in the leather have been sanded off. Then, an artificial grain is applied to the sanded-down leather. Typically, corrected-grain leather looks cheap and plasticky, and the artificial finishes creates tiny creases in the shoe after just a few uses. Corrected grain is typically used by lower-quality manufacturers.

J: These would be full grain leathers then, because we do have to cut around parts that have imperfections.

A: Full-grain leather has not been sanded to remove imperfections, so the natural grain of the leather shows. It does not wear out over time like corrected-grain - it rather develops what is called a patina - almost a gradient of colors - after being polished and waxed. In addition, because it does not have an artificial grain pasted on top, it "breathes" better and does not hold moisture inside the shoe.

A: Okay, I see.

A: Does Allen Edmonds manufacture any shoes with corrected grain then? Because, even though I may seem picky, the difference can be between a shoe that looks good for 3 years and one that looks good for 15+ years.

J: The only shoe that would be corrected would be a patent leather material.

A: Okay, thank you.

J: You are welcome.

J: Thank you for visiting.  Please contact us at any time.

 

 

But I have read several posts here that suggest Allen Edmonds does in fact use corrected grain on just a few shoes (aside from patent leather obviously) - and I'm not sure this guy knew entirely what he was talking about.  So obviously the famous ones - the "representatives" of the brand if you will (ex. Park Avenue, Strand) don't use CG - but what about the lesser known models - particularly the two kiltie tassel loafers mentioned (I'm very fond of the combination)?

 

And as a follow-up question, anyone have any good recommendations for kiltie tassel loafers aside from those AE's (I'll consider just tassels, too)?

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