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post #21631 of 29351


.. so I think you all are saying I should not have dressed this way?
post #21632 of 29351
...
Edited by rudals1281 - 5/12/13 at 2:38pm
post #21633 of 29351
Quote:
Originally Posted by cptjeff View Post



Also, "school uniform or brooks brothers tribute"? The hell are you on about? Classic Brooks Brothers would involve navy or charcoal, not black. A black suit is in no way a traditional Brooks Brothers choice, at least in our current understanding of the style, coming out of a trad background. And school uniform? the stereotype there is a navy blazer and khakis. Black suit with white shirt won't have that connotation for anybody. You might get undertaker or secret service agent if you wore a really dark and somber tie, but the purple should take care of that.

 

I said "Blues Brothers", not "Brooks Brothers".  And I don't think most American schools have uniforms.  English ones do.  When I was at school, mine like many others involved a black blazer.

 

And like I also said, I misread the OP that he only had a black suit and needed to wear this tie with it.  I have had a few black suits too. But like you said, never as the only one.

 

Keep calm. x

post #21634 of 29351
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudals1281 View Post



.. so I think you all are saying I should not have dressed this way?

One person is saying it. I'm saying that that person is mistaken. Looks great to me, though you need to show more cuff. Looks like the suit sleeves are in the right place, but the shirt is a little short. That's a nitpick though, it looks like that outfit fits you very well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

I said "Blues Brothers", not "Brooks Brothers". And I don't think most American schools have uniforms. English ones do. When I was at school, mine like many others involved a black blazer.

And like I also said, I misread the OP that he only had a black suit and needed to wear this tie with it. I have had a few black suits too. But like you said, never as the only one.

Keep calm. x

Sorry, did misread the blues brothers bit, but you don't get that association without the narrow black tie and the fedora. At that point, you're running into all sorts of stereotypes, you could also go with Men in Black, or wanna be secret agent. But without the black tie, you don't run into that territory at all.

As for the school thing, even if your blazer was black, suits and blazers create very different outfits.

I really just hate all these people dragging out specific connotations attached to marginally related outfits. Classic Menswear is all very similar, and there's always going to be some idiot who associates any suit with evil people, or the color navy with a parent who beat them, or all odd jackets with the blazers they were forced to wear at school. The whole point of classic menswear is that it can go across a huge number of settings, and when you associate something like a black suit with any one thing, it becomes an exercise in ridiculousness. Because while a black suit (in this case, not even a black suit, just a black something) might be worn in that context, it's also worn in a thousand other contexts as a perfectly normal matter.

It's a dark, conservative suit, useful for those who like high contrast and high saturation looks. High contrast and high saturation is not always the favored aesthetic around here, but that does not make it a bad one. Beyond that, specific associations are really kind of pointless. It just sounds like the people who say things like, "my grandfather wore wingtips, so therefore they're only worn by old people". If you want to use that to guide your own style, whatever. But it's a horrendous basis for giving advice to other people.
post #21635 of 29351

The gentleman asked for advice and got it: in the classic menswear orthodoxy, solid black and white is generally the preserve of evening wear.  A black lounge suit and a white shirt can be compared to a lot of things - some of which you have added helpfully.  But what it cannot usually be considered, is elegant, classic-contemporary gentleman's day wear.  But don't take my word for it.  Take a look at the well-dressed fellows on this side of the forum, in the "What Are You Wearing Right Now" and the "Good Taste" threads, for example.  It will be a fruitless search for a reason.

 

There are no rules and we all choose our personal style.  I'm sure I've worn a black suit and white shirt on many occasions before now.  But when someone asks for optimum style advice, that's not mine.  There are just too many better options.  Although I will happily make an exception if you are forming a ska revival band.  Go for it. lol8[1].gif

post #21636 of 29351
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

^^ Sorry I misread the OP.  A blue suit would be better, yes.

GuP: don't buy it.  Firstly because it's fucking horrible, but secondly because Ferragamo is invariably a terrible waste of money.  Not because they're bad shoes - the Tramezza range is nice, and the Lavorazione Originale can be OK too (but "Studio Ferragamo" is utter K-Mart shit for suckers).  But because whatever the range, there are a hundred better shoe makers for far less money.

Read around here a bit more.  This is a pervert's paradise of shoe p0rn0graphy.

I wudnt spend a penny on any farragamos except on the tramezza line. (Botched spelling)
post #21637 of 29351
Quote:
Originally Posted by cptjeff View Post

One person is saying it. I'm saying that that person is mistaken. Looks great to me, though you need to show more cuff. Looks like the suit sleeves are in the right place, but the shirt is a little short. That's a nitpick though, it looks like that outfit fits you very well. .

Much appreciate your opinion. I did wear this today and got a lot of compliments. As for the sleeve, I dont know what the heck in the world happened. But it is no big deal. My observation on SF on black suits has been...that it is almost frowned upon or some view it as blasphemy. Whatever the case maybe, 99.9% of people around me couldnt care any less on what I am wearing. I like black suits and I get compliments regardless of what I am wearing 'cus I try.
post #21638 of 29351
What is the quality of Hilditch & Key compared to say, Borrelli and the Italian makers? I've tried to search the archives on this but there are mixed reviews. Is Hilditch in the same league or not?
post #21639 of 29351
Clueless SW&D poster again, imploring you fine men for advice.
Just picked up a Dries suit for some weddings. It is a very faint plaid print, something that came out very pronounced in the pictures. Anyway, my gut tells me that because the suit has a pattern, I should stick with a plain shirt and tie. If true, what color shirt/tie should I go with? The more options the better...I have 2 weddings on consecutive weekends and I don't want to buy another suit, but another shirt/tie is fine
post #21640 of 29351
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

The gentleman asked for advice and got it: in the classic menswear orthodoxy, solid black and white is generally the preserve of evening wear.  A black lounge suit and a white shirt can be compared to a lot of things - some of which you have added helpfully.  But what it cannot usually be considered, is elegant, classic-contemporary gentleman's day wear.  But don't take my word for it.  Take a look at the well-dressed fellows on this side of the forum, in the "What Are You Wearing Right Now" and the "Good Taste" threads, for example.  It will be a fruitless search for a reason.

Black suit and white shirt has never been reserved for formalwear only. Absolutely never. The recent stupidity about white shirts on this forum is one member expressing his opinion and others taking it as gospel, and the nonsense on black suits is an iGent myth. You are not approaching this from the view of classic menswear orthodoxy, you are approaching this from the view of Styleforum and iGent orthodoxy, which is a mixture of rules, some classic, some invented, and stylistic preferences- like the preference for blue shirts over white, brown shoes over black, the distaste for black in general. Threads such as the good taste thread and the WAYWRN provide a lot of very good examples of the SF house style, but they are not comprehensive compendiums of all that classic menswear has to offer. It is elegant daywear that fits in either classic and contemporary settings- it's just not within the parameters of the SF preferred aesthetic.
Quote:
There are no rules and we all choose our personal style.  I'm sure I've worn a black suit and white shirt on many occasions before now.  But when someone asks for optimum style advice, that's not mine.  There are just too many better options.  Although I will happily make an exception if you are forming a ska revival band.  Go for it. 

Not all opinions are equal. If you had just said that you would choose a navy or a gray suit, I wouldn't have cared. I would have agreed, even. I prefer those colors myself. If you had offered that you think a light blue shirt would have been better, I would have disagreed, but whatever. But you told him to avoid a white shirt, which is, by any historic rule, but any sense of color theory, by any judgement of good taste, the entirely best choice with a black suit, and the only support you offered were weakly related personal associations that you generalized to everybody else.
post #21641 of 29351

Question about pressing / spot cleaning in NYC - there is another thread about this, but posts are from a ways back -

 

I was unpleasantly surprised after using Madame Paulette for the first time - did a nice job removing a stain from a lapel- but TERRIBLE job pressing the suit - the lapel was pressed as if it were a 3-roll-2 jacket rather than the 2-button jacket that it is.  

 

- Anyone else have this odd problem with m.p.?

 

- Any recent feedback on Meurice versus Hallak, or other suggestions, preferably East/West Village, for spot cleaning and reliable pressing?

 

Thank you.

post #21642 of 29351
Can anyone recommend a good pair of boat shoes?
post #21643 of 29351
Quote:
Originally Posted by CityHunter View Post
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Clueless SW&D poster again, imploring you fine men for advice.
Just picked up a Dries suit for some weddings. It is a very faint plaid print, something that came out very pronounced in the pictures. Anyway, my gut tells me that because the suit has a pattern, I should stick with a plain shirt and tie. If true, what color shirt/tie should I go with? The more options the better...I have 2 weddings on consecutive weekends and I don't want to buy another suit, but another shirt/tie is fine

 

Right about the solid shirt, but if you get a simple solid tie, the suit will appear to float on top of them (as in it will overly draw the eye). Go with a somewhat bright (not soporific, since this is for weddings) tie with visible texture.

post #21644 of 29351
I'll be a groom at a wedding in August, and the location is a classic New England coast villa with an outdoor ceremony. I am probably not going to ask the groomsmen to match outfits, and it certainly won't be a black-tie. Here's a suit that I'm thinking, and my questions are:
(a) is this a good choice?
(b) where do I get something like it?


Mid-to-light gray, all-season/summer weight wool, single breasted, peak lapels, 3pc with waistcoat. I have a very erect posture, and the best fitting OTR suit on me is a BB Fitzgerald -- after the BB tailor pulls up the entire back of the coat, it fits excellent. Also, the shoulder measurement of the 38R Fitzgerald is 17 1/8" which is perfect, while most other 38Rs are 18". About $750 is my price limit (BB semi-annual sale works). I've never tried and won't risk online MTM.
post #21645 of 29351
Quote:
Originally Posted by aglose View Post

Can anyone recommend a good pair of boat shoes?

Sebago seems to be the general recommendation.

I've been wearing Timberland 3 Eyes forever and I love them.
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