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post #21421 of 28889

Why do some high-end Italian suit manufacturers use elastane in their fabrics?  eg.  99% wool, 1% elastane.  or 97% wool, 3% elastane.

what purpose does the elastane serve? Shininess?  Stretch to accomodate all sorts of physiques without using designs with humungous cuts?  Non-wrinkleness in the fabric?

post #21422 of 28889
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

GQ my arse.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Firstly, I apologise for mis-counting buttons - I wear mine at about the fourth button then - i.e. the third excluding the collar button.  My mistake.  But still around a third of the length of the loose front blade.  Certainly less than half.  The Michael Douglas picture, apart from the obvious horrors, is not too bad in terms of the tie clip, but borderline at least.  I'd go a bit higher, his is right on the limit of sense.

There is a practical reason for this.  Most tie clips, in order to serve their functional purpose, have a small chain and T-bar or similar, to anchor the whole assembly to the button hole of the shirt.  This has a certain amount of flexibility by virtue of its length.  The lower the button hole to which it is attached, the longer the chain would have to be to account for your movement, especially if the jacket is buttoned.  Really, try it.  Sit down, stand up, move around a bit,  If the tie clip is attached lower down, it will tug more and probably snap at some point, making the whole apparatus rather redundant.

So the happy compromise between securing enough of the tie, and maintaining normal movement without breaking it, is right there.

As for the fastened jacket/waistcoat etc, I think another point has been missed: one's tie doesn't just tend to move out of place in the wind.  Unless you're fiddling with the damn thing eternally, it also tends sometimes to move about a bit under your jacket or waistcoat if you're moving around a lot yourself.  So fastening one's jacket or wearing a three piece doesn't obviate the need for a tie clip - it can increase it.  As for whether it's visible, that's rather dependent on the cut of the clothing in question.  But whatever that may be, it is after all the visible part of the tie that one wishes to keep firmly in place, and if the tie clip is low down under the waistcoat or on the button point of the jacket, again there is a risk that the clothing over it will tug against it and break the securing chain.

Therefore, wear it about a third of the way down, and probably just visible i.e. free of the jacket button or waistcoat sliding and pulling against it..  Or don't wear one at all.  I generally don't because I find them a bit flash.  I don't really like them.   But if the  tie is too short for my big neck/preferred knot and I need to secure the short back blade out of sight, and the whole tie to be sure it remains unseen, then I wear one.  And that's where I wear it, and why.  So there.

The simple fact is that these guys look like twats largely due to their tie clips -

and this guy doesn't -
post #21423 of 28889
Quote:
Originally Posted by snowboardpunk View Post

I was wondering where you guys get your laces?
If, as you indicate, you do not have a local source of quality shoe laces, I'd mention that Allen Edmonds offers a variety of shoe laces, and shipping is free with no minimum purchase required.

Don't ignore the clearance laces at AE, for relative bargains.
post #21424 of 28889

I want to confirm what I've learnt as to how long my sleeve length should be for dress shirts adhering to classic menswear rules.

According to Put This On and Reddit,

 

The end of the cuff should touch the start of the "V' between my index finger and thumb when fully unbuttoned as per the image below

 

 

and should button tight enough to rest at the root of my thumb, as per

 

 

And then my jacket sized to show only (1/2-3/4 inch) 1-2cm of cuff.

 

What do you think? Also, can RTW dress shirts' cuffs be tailored to be tighter?


Edited by stgrim - 4/30/13 at 3:51pm
post #21425 of 28889
Quote:
Originally Posted by E,TF View Post

The simple fact is that these guys look like twats largely due to their tie clips -
...
and this guy doesn't
The non-twat looking guy is also clean shaven.

So many pop celebrities, male fashion models, etc., look like they should either grow a real beard, or shave more often than every 4th day.
post #21426 of 28889
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12345Michael54321 View Post

The non-twat looking guy is also clean shaven.

So many pop celebrities, male fashion models, etc., look like they should either grow a real beard, or shave more often than every 4th day.

lol...and non-twat guy bears a striking resemblance to Sean Connery while the twat guy on the left looks like a Henry Rollins wanna be celebrity impersonator.
post #21427 of 28889
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kid Nickels View Post

non-twat guy bears a striking resemblance to Sean Connery
I assume he is Sean Connery, from probably 50 years ago. I never much cared for James Bond movies, although the few I enjoy are almost all from the Sean Connery era.

I have no idea who the four guys in the other photograph are.
post #21428 of 28889
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12345Michael54321 View Post

I assume he is Sean Connery, from probably 50 years ago. I never much cared for James Bond movies, although the few I enjoy are almost all from the Sean Connery era.

I have no idea who the four guys in the other photograph are.

I agree with your previous post Michael... and I was joking... yeah, that's definitely Sean Connery. nod[1].gif
post #21429 of 28889
Quote:
Originally Posted by wing8tesqw View Post

I do own these blazers already. My current suits are all winter weight.  Budget not strong enough to invest in a suit I'd really really  want at this time. I'm thinking 200 max.



The nuptials are in the morning and the reception in the afternoon to early evening. All takes place at an Italian restaurant.  California location

Formality is business casual( i think).  The wedding party is definitely formal.

 
Since most of the events are taking place during the day, I'd go with the light blue jacket. I would go with a very light beige for the pants.
post #21430 of 28889
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kid Nickels View Post

lol...and non-twat guy bears a striking resemblance to Sean Connery while the twat guy on the left looks like a Henry Rollins wanna be celebrity impersonator.

Yeah, that's because it is Sean Connery smile.gif
post #21431 of 28889

I bought a couple of pairs of Slim Fit Smart Pants of ASOS as an experiment... pictured here is the navy version. Aside from the other stuff that is wrong - the pants are very tight around my calves and thighs, creating this bunch up effect. It gathers in strange areas. The break is fine, the waist is great, the colours are fantastic (first navy suit pants in my wardrobe). 

 

Do I stick it out and wear them, and do they have a place in a classical menswear wardrobe? Or should I return them?

 

 

post #21432 of 28889
I have no idea who the four guys in the first photo are btw. But imagine them without tie clips - just a bunch of badly dressed guys, fine, no problem, lots of badly dressed guys in the world. That they all decided to add the little bit of man jewellery (at look-at-me eye catching height) is what elevates them to twatdom imo. Sean Connery manages to wear it in a way that doesn't scream "hey look at me and my tie clip, aren't we cool."
post #21433 of 28889

But also in a way that looks untidy and clumsy.  Because it's pulling against his shirt when he moves and is neither holding his tie in place (it's bowing out from his body), nor serving any function as his tie is tucked Mr Bean-style into his pants .  The four stooges are wearing their ties too short a-la-hipster, and Connery's is tucked into his waistband.  Frankly, both examples are awful.

 

Fleming's James Bond also was a great advocate of short sleeved shirts and nylon Y-fronts.  The James-Bond-As-Style-Reference thing is an eternal red herring.  The "real" Bond was, like most fictional heroes, a fantasy of his author, who like many creative types preferred lazy slip-on shoes, easy tie knots (if wearing a tie at all) and loose, utilitarian attire.  Hardly the SF-standard.  Peter Sellers, John Lennon...two more examples of great creators described by their peers as "too lazy to do up laces".  As for the movie Bonds, they have been just as susceptible to the whims of fashion, and more lately, sponsored sartorial idiocy, as any other media creation.  One might just as well cite Don Johnson in Miami Vice as an eternal style reference.  So just because Fleming's Bond didn't like windsor knots or proper shoes because they're time-consuming, or because Daniel Craig had a DJ with no waistcoat and a size too small. doesn't mean we should all follow.

 

The gentlemen (and I use the word loosely) in the other picture look awful for all sorts of reasons, mostly related to their awful suits and pretentious posturing, but also silly hair, awful ties and general hipster wankery.  The only thing bothersome about the tie clips is that they all seem to match, giving a rather peculiar sense of boy band clubbishness.  But for all that, their hideous ties are all perfectly straight and flush to the body.  Sean's isn't.  Then again,  Sean Connery  still looked like Sean Connery in a poly-cotton safari shirt and sandals.  But it's all relative.  

 

Personally, as I said, I don't really like tie clips an awful lot - really only when I have that short back blade issue, as I mentioned - in which case it goes in its most functional location.

post #21434 of 28889
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archer View Post

Should I return them?

 

 

 

 

Yes.  They don't fit.  Your jacket also looks a little big for you around the chest: if you've gone for a slim fit, perhaps try a standard fit in a smaller size instead.

 

But your tie clip is in the right place.  lol8[1].gif

post #21435 of 28889

Should I spend 80 dollars on these hangers? 

http://www.butlerluxury.com/product-p/dmw-sh-1.htm

http://www.butlerluxury.com/product-p/dmw-su-1.htm

Or are there any good alternatives?

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