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post #21301 of 29362

Where do you all source your slim fitted OCBDs? I see them on the Brooks Bros website for $80-90 but are there any other brands I should be looking at?

post #21302 of 29362
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

 

Exactly.  They're even wearing cargo pants in the WAYWRN thread these days.  Maybe a new "No Really, Just Classic Menswear" section is needed...

Understood.  Mine was an accident -- I thought I was in the other forum.  I'm an old man, I'm confused!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79YUknp1T7I

post #21303 of 29362
Quote:
Originally Posted by AZsundevil View Post

Where do you all source your slim fitted OCBDs? I see them on the Brooks Bros website for $80-90 but are there any other brands I should be looking at?


All depends on what you want to spend. These guys just did one hell of exhausted review on OCBDs

http://putthison.com/tagged/Oxford-Cloth-Button-Downs

post #21304 of 29362
Skip this if you are not interested in minutiae of shirt measurement.



Now and then I am asked to measure a shirt like we measure a suit; shoulder seam to shoulder seam, and shoulder seam to end of sleeve. I have already provided actual collar and sleeve measurements (measured the traditional way) and usually have provided P2P. In my experience, if a shirt has the correct neck-sleeve size for me then the shoulder seam falls at the right spot. That is 100% of the time.

I know that the shoulder seam to end of sleeve measurement is unnecessary. If the sleeve length in the collar-sleeve size format is your sleeve length then the end of the sleeve will be in the right place at your wrist.

The question is whether the shoulder seam to shoulder seam measurement is of any use to anyone. Do any of you find that some OTR shirts which are of the correct size (collar-sleeve actual measurements) actually do not fit you because the shoulder seam to shoulder seam width is too wide or too narrow?
post #21305 of 29362
Thank you eqcitizen. That's a great resource. I was hoping for something at or below the price point of the Brooks Bros. It seems as if the Land's End shirts are fairly decent for the price. If the BBs go on sale for $50 as the author of that website claims, it might be best to just wait for a sale and buy a few at that time.
post #21306 of 29362
I just thrifted a really nice bepsoke suit and when I got home I noticed inside the pockets and along the hem it has a label that says "TERVIRA WOOL ENGLAND"

Now I looked it up and it kept giving me "TREVIRA" and it says it's a form of polyester, it's entirely possible it was spelled wrong on all the labels however it baffles me that someone would get a very nicely tailored bespoke suit with smoked MOP buttons made using a polyester fabric.

What the hell do I have?
post #21307 of 29362
hi guys,there is crease on my shirt between 1st and 2nd button(below collar),it become more Obvious when i put my jacket on,can i fix it by my own?
post #21308 of 29362
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aeren View Post

hi guys,there is crease on my shirt between 1st and 2nd button(below collar),it become more Obvious when i put my jacket on,can i fix it by my own?
Without seeing exactly what it is about which you're asking, it's difficult to suggest a course of action. Might this simply be a crease you could iron out? If not, please provide a photo.
post #21309 of 29362
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12345Michael54321 View Post

Without seeing exactly what it is about which you're asking, it's difficult to suggest a course of action. Might this simply be a crease you could iron out? If not, please provide a photo.

hi,thank you for your reply. cant upload any photo currently,but im pretty sure it cant be iron out.
or,should i say its a "pulling" vertical line?
post #21310 of 29362

Isn't Yom Kippur supposed to be pretty conservative? So a green blazer would really make you stick out.

post #21311 of 29362

Also i really belive the manufactures recommend waiting to cover themselves in case the shoetrees are not made of unfinished wood

If you put a plastic or varnished tree in a damp shoe it could be harmful . I think most people myself included agree unfinished cedar or birch trees put in immediatly is the best practice

post #21312 of 29362

I'm buying a new suit and am trying to decide on a charcoal herringbone fabric. I work in a very casual industry (tech) and rarely if ever have to dress up (and when I do, no one has the sense or style to notice what I'm wearing). So this would basically take the place of my solid charcoal suit for weddings, fancy parties, interviews, etc.

 

I want it to be versatile and all-season, but still a little fun and interesting, hence the herringbone. I think I've got it narrowed down to three fabrics; I'm leaning toward 2 or 3, since they're both a bit less noticeable/wintery than 1 and would hopefully not appear stripey from a distance (not a fan of shadow stripes). Any preferences?

 

Also, does the weight matter a ton? They're all between 260 and 280g (not sure of the Super count -- probably between 110 and 130?), which would work all year round, right?

 

 

 
post #21313 of 29362

If the concept of an "all year round suit" works at all, then I guess it would be about that weight.  But that's really saying it doesn't get hot or cold, or at least that you don't care as long as your car/office AC/heating works well.  I'd go for around 220g myself, but I tend to be warm rather than cold.  Ironically, you might find it's worse in winter when offices are heated - my experience anyway.   Or more than one suit!  As for the "super" rating, it's notoriously unreliable as a quality guide, but in the range you mention should be decent enough AND reasonably resilient.  I am told Kent Wang sells nice stuff, anyway.

 

I like herringbone.  But it wouldn't be my choice if I only ever wore one suit.  It's not entirely "businessy", while at the same time, charcoal isn't exactly fun.  It's a little....tenth grade history teacher.  My recommendation for the "one" suit, would always be solid navy.  Total business with a double cuff shirt,  tie and black captoes.  City cool casual with brown shoes and belt, linen shirt and no tie.  Totally appropriate for everything from a lunchtime date to a state funeral.

 

Still, it's not my suit and if a charcoal herringbone is the one you love, no problem.  I'd wear it, and enjoy it, but it will need livening up with - I suggest - a pale blue shirt, a good tie (small pattern, high quality, strong colour but not bright e.g. burgundy), and white or contrasting pocket square.  And wear good shoes.  Probably black, and I'd suggest maybe some kind of wingtip brogue would set it off perfectly as a "not-quite-city" look.  Don't forget good socks either.  Check out the "rock your socks" thread for inspiration.

post #21314 of 29362
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlocke View Post

I'm buying a new suit and am trying to decide on a charcoal herringbone fabric. I work in a very casual industry (tech) and rarely if ever have to dress up (and when I do, no one has the sense or style to notice what I'm wearing). So this would basically take the place of my solid charcoal suit for weddings, fancy parties, interviews, etc.


I want it to be versatile and all-season, but still a little fun and interesting, hence the herringbone. I think I've got it narrowed down to three fabrics; I'm leaning toward 2 or 3, since they're both a bit less noticeable/wintery than 1 and would hopefully not appear stripey from a distance (not a fan of shadow stripes). Any preferences?


Also, does the weight matter a ton? They're all between 260 and 280g (not sure of the Super count -- probably between 110 and 130?), which would work all year round, right?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I think you'd get much more use out of a solid charcoal or navy suit than a herringbone. If you want something "fun and interesting" (which is almost always a bad idea with suits), change your shirt or tie.

Herringbone rarely looks good outside of tweed or overcoating IMO, and it's more distinctive, so every time you wear it it will look like you only own the one suit. Go for the most versatile thing you can for early suits, which is solid charcoal or navy.

If you really want herringbone, get 2 or 3 as they are much finer and will resolve to closer to solid at distance.
post #21315 of 29362
I think herringbone is a fine choice. I wouldn't call it wacky or anything, but if you only have 1-3 suits not a good idea.
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