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post #21241 of 28684
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Smith View Post


In general, higher super numbers are less durable than lower super numbers.

Thank you for the correction Steve!

post #21242 of 28684
Quote:
Originally Posted by omgitswes View Post

Obvious noob question. But I've been seeing people discussing open and closed quarters....what exactly does that mean?
Thanks

I have tried to channel my inner Foo foo.gif:

 

1) Open quarters

 

 

 

2) Closed quarters

 

post #21243 of 28684
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

 

Like I said. you get what you pay for.  The lowest price shoes I've seen with really nice leather are those Barkers.  But Barker do "polished" leather too, so it varied from model to model.  The Samuel Windsor shoes will no doubt be polished/corrected grain: the only ones I've ever bought are some suede ones for my 14 year old son.

 

But don't get too hung up on "corrected grain".  We all live in the real world, and even with a cheaper leather, a bit of work with the polish can make them look more respectable.  If anything, some of these cheap polished leathers take a shine more easily.  The real downsides with such leather are that it doesn't breath as well or take the polish/renovator in as easily, and is more vulnerable to cracking over time as a result.  But if you want a cheap pair for the short term, especially if you're a student or whatever, don't worry about it too much.  Get something that you really like the look of, that fits well.  That's the best place to start with anything.

 

 

Semi-Fly: I am not familiar enough with different American brands to think of any quality products in that price range - unless perhaps you can find some Allen Edmonds you like on sale somewhere.  I'd say don't be too worried about the shipping and stuff.  Meermin can be really slow and unpredictable, so maybe skip them, but Bexley are pretty efficient and you can calculate the postage before you pay.  Pediwear have excellent customer service and will give you advice on fit if you ask, and their postage charges are fixed.  I've dealt with them happily for shipping to the Middle East.

 

I wear a UK 9.5 F or G, and a US 10E in Allen Edmonds, possibly 10.5D depending on the shoe.  I also find a 10.5 tight in some other brands.  Allen Edmonds have a printable size guide, so try using that to get your "official" size from them, and I'll maybe be able to suggest how some of the shoes I listed compare.

 

Regarding the last shapes of the two Barkers, actually in real life it's the other way around.  The soft square toe is a little extended in a way that doesn't show in the picture.  It's the lovely tan ones that have a shorter, rounder, more conservative last.  If your 10.5 shoes are the right length but a bit narrow, then these tan Barkers or the Loake cap toes will probably be great in a UK 9.5 - they're both a slightly wider fitting and a comfortable shape.

 

 

I am very impressed with the wholecut bexleys you posted earlier, 129 euros is a great price. Their website says "calf leather", do you know if this is polished/corrected grain?

post #21244 of 28684
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinfjotli View Post

I have tried to channel my inner Foo foo.gif
:

1) Open quarters
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



2) Closed quarters
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Ahhh okay. Thanks!
post #21245 of 28684
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerangedGoose View Post

 

 

I am very impressed with the wholecut bexleys you posted earlier, 129 euros is a great price. Their website says "calf leather", do you know if this is polished/corrected grain?

 

 

It might well be.  But bear in mind that there are $800 shoes from the likes of Church's that are too - it's a matter of exactly how the leather is finished, but those terms can be applied to a pretty wide range of quality levels.  I've seen a pair of Bexleys worn by SF member Upr Crust and they looked pretty nice - certainly more than $135, which is basically what these are when you take off VAT.  At that price, it's worth the risk, but from the pictures the leather doesn't look at all bad.

 

I'm not buying anything right now, but if I were, I'd be tempted by those as well.  And definitely buy the shoe trees - cheapest cedar trees I've found, double spring makes them easy to use and sit nicely, and I have about ten pairs doing good work for me as I write!


Edited by mimo - 4/21/13 at 12:26pm
post #21246 of 28684
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

 

 

It might well be.  But bear in mind that there are $800 shoes from the likes of Church's that are too - it's a matter of exactly how the leather is finished, but those terms can be applied to a pretty wide range of quality levels.  I've seen a pair of Bexleys worn by SF member Upr Crust and they looked pretty nice - certainly more than $135, which is basically what these are when you take off VAT.  At that price, it's worth the risk, but from the pictures the leather doesn't look at all bad.

 

I'm not buying anything right now, but if I were, I'd be tempted by those as well.  And definitely buy the shoe trees - cheapest cedar trees I've found, double spring makes them easy to use and sit nicely, and I have about ten pairs doing good work for me as I write!

In their FAQ about the leathers they use, they have one finish listed as "brush off" which is described as a "slightly leveled skin" -- this is probably their euphemism for corrected grain. In all of the shoes that I am interested in, however, none of the descriptions or technical details are listed as having the "brush off" finish, so I assume the shoes I am interested in employ full grain standard calf? 

 

Do you think I should email them to be sure?

post #21247 of 28684

 sinfjotli: thanks for the clarification on open/closed quarters in suits, I was curious as to what the quarters meant in suits but now I know. 

post #21248 of 28684

I found these meermin's for really cheap, but they are a 9.5 UK, which is a 10.5 US and I am closer to 11. They are an E width. When I asked for measurements, They were .1-.2 inches short in outsole length, and more or less spot on in insole length to my slip on loafers, which are a size 44 (10.5 US). The only difference is that my loafers have stretch gussets built into the sides of the tongue, and these are just standard shoes. Do you guys think they will be too tight of a fit?

 

 

post #21249 of 28684
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerangedGoose View Post

Do you guys think they will be too tight of a fit?
Probably.
post #21250 of 28684

Hi, I've just had a suit made. Not overly happy with the fit so will be taking it back for some tweaks shortly. One other thing I've noticed is some stitching on the underside of the lapel? Is this normal or is it a short-cut? Does this mean that there's no canvas in the lapel? 

 

post #21251 of 28684
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerangedGoose View Post

I found these meermin's for really cheap, but they are a 9.5 UK, which is a 10.5 US and I am closer to 11. They are an E width. When I asked for measurements, They were .1-.2 inches short in outsole length, and more or less spot on in insole length to my slip on loafers, which are a size 44 (10.5 US). The only difference is that my loafers have stretch gussets built into the sides of the tongue, and these are just standard shoes. Do you guys think they will be too tight of a fit?
 

 

 

 

 

 

Firstly, re. corrected grain, there is no obligation to tell you either way.  For trading purposes, leather is leather.  If the person you ask knows the difference they might tell you, otherwise they'll just say "it says leather on the box, that's all I know".  But like I said, don't get hung up on it: they're cheap, and if you like them, try them.  Even if it is corrected grain, there are degrees from awful to decent-looking.  And if it looks decent, give it a go.

 

On the sizing point, be careful.  "E" means different things - in England it's normally narrow, although some makers use it for medium (especially the top makers, whose lasts are often narrow anyway).  Which last is it?  Check the Meermin thread for comparisons, but I understand that most of their lasts are quite slender.  Also, don't be mislead by the length of your internal shoe measurement.  A loafer often has a more rounded toe, and a shoe that is more tapered can feel plenty smaller even if it's an inch or more longer: the elegant extended toe box doesn't give your foot any more room.  Also, watch the comparisons: there is no direct equivalence between size systems and no standard for manufacturers.  Depending on last shape, sizing will vary a lot from person to person.  For instance, several places call a UK 9.5 a 44.  It's actually 43.8.  I'm a 9.5 usually, and wear 43.5 or 44 depending on the shoe.  I also have a 10 wide and a 9.5 regular from the same maker that fit - just different shapes.  

 

So in short, I think that shoe will be too small for you...

post #21252 of 28684

Thanks for your straightforward input, mimo. I kind of figured the shoes would be too small. If anyone wants, I can PM them the link to the ebay auction. They are going for 80+40 shipping, no bids and a BIN of 130 or 150

 

I just picked up these allen edmonds kenilworths slightly used off ebay for 120 shipped. They were by far the cheapest option in the price range. I already have a horsehair brush, what else should I grab? renovateur? 

 

post #21253 of 28684
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerangedGoose View Post

I already have a horsehair brush, what else should I grab?
A dauber brush, an old toothbrush, a few rags (cut up an old t-shirt, maybe), leather cleaner/conditioner (Allen Edmonds is what I typically use, it ships for free from AE, and is currently on sale), some Meltonian cream (not the only brand, but I like it).

There are thousands of webpages and youtube videos on shoe care, so I won't bother going over the details here. There's also the SF shoe care thread, at http://www.styleforum.net/t/228153/the-official-shoe-care-thread-tutorials-photos-etc/0_50, where you can review thousands of posts on this topic, never mind that taking care of your shoes really isn't all that complicated.
post #21254 of 28684
Ok quick question. Men's cardigans...blue and black with small horizontal stripes?

Yes or No.
post #21255 of 28684

No.  Get a blazer and man up. :)

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