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post #19936 of 28364

I just realized I originally posted this question in the wrong place. Apologies for that.

 

The most recent bespoke suit I purchased was made with what the tailor described as a 'much higher quality' fabric then even the super 150s wool/cashmere that I normally get with them. It is supposedly a better wool/cashmere blend fabric. Anyway, I received it and while it looks great when you look at it straight on, if you look at it from an angle, you can see that the fabric is fuzzy or balled up.. I'm not sure what the correct term would be for the phenomenon, but I'd liken it to if you have a nice dress sock that you do not turn inside out and wash and dry a bunch of times (it gets fuzzy or like the fabric is coming apart, unwinding or standing up).

 

Can someone let me know if this is normal, whether I should be concerned and/or whether it is fixable?

 

My tailor says this is just the way this type of super high end cashmere fabric is...

 

Thanks!

 

 

post #19937 of 28364
Quote:
Originally Posted by meursault42 View Post


well you have a few options since this isn't (or rather shouldn't be) formal. To begin, a white shirt with a blue suit always looks classic. Additionally, consider the opposite, more rakish black shirt. After that really the sky is the limit, a lighter blue for a color blocked look. Any complimentary tone, such as a brown (careful could look embarrassingly 70s). Corresponding tie combos in order of preference, white with red, then lighter shade of blue, then repp. Black none, pop open a button or two and go out like a badass. I could go on but the real answer is to not wear a tie unless you must. A blue shawl collar suit is a party piece and not really office appropriate and should be treated accordingly: casually.

 

thanks for the reply... well i'll be a single guest at a friend's wedding. so it doesn't have to be formal. i'm a security dog handler so there's also no office, just a desire to look good when i get a chance to

 

i've just bought a similar tie to this in a houndstooth pattern to wear with a white shirt. i think it looks good. my suit is slightly darker, but similar.

 

 

post #19938 of 28364
Quote:
Originally Posted by pskusa View Post

What are some basic rules or guidelines I can take into consideration when judging the quality of an item?

 

I'm slowly expanding my knowledge of clothing and dress by learning new terms, brands, and guidelines for wearing and buying clothing. However, there is no definitive guide out there that offers a holistic approach, or introduction, to the world of dressing well. I also don't have any guidance in real life, seeing as my family and friends don't care to dress this way. Therefore, it makes it a hassle for me when I'm out shopping in thrift stores, looking for clothing to buy and wear.

 

Maybe there's a list of good brands/clothing material I should keep my eye on? So far, I'm avoiding mostly everything which contains mixed material (i.e. polymers - however I'm not sure with suits seeing as they're built differently from shirts, pants, etc).

 

 

SORRY this is a large post. The search function isn't helping me out here, though.


Before I joined SF I lurked for a few years reading through almost every pertinent thread.  I was interested in buying clothes in Naples so I got a notebook and started making notes and built a list of brands based off of the conversations here on SF.  I might suggest that approach might work for you as well.  Read a lot of posts here and take notes, then try to go look at these brands in a store and feel the fabric.  Feel its weight and texture in your fingers- look at the density of the fabric.  Feel is just as important as look.  Take a close look at the stitching- look at the workmanship in the seams and button holes, look at the buttons and how they are attached. 

 

I don't think you can judge quality garments until you have spent some time with them.  Once you peruse the brand names mentioned here you will have some reference point from which to judge garments you encounter while shopping or thrifting. 

 

The name brand itself is not the point- but certain brands have consistently high standards- and that engenders trust with the consumer, so don't be too put-off by the impression some get of being a brand-whore.  I think of myself as a quality-whore. 

post #19939 of 28364

americangent, is napoli any good for thrifting?

post #19940 of 28364
Quote:
Originally Posted by ocatoro View Post

americangent, is napoli any good for thrifting?


I have no idea!

post #19941 of 28364
Hey guys - help me choose between two options for a black tie optional holiday party!

Either way, I'll be wearing a wing-collar formal shirt, my dinner suit black watch tartan bow tie, yellow braces and black hose and patent leather shoes.

With this outfit... I'm trying to choose the right combination of pants and waist covering.
  • Option 1: Tartan cummerbund, with the dinner suit's pants. I do worry about the color contrast between tartan and the canary yellow braces (yes, you're not supposed to take off your jacket but there's going to be dancing and it's just going to happen haha shog[1].gif
  • Option 2: The dinner suit's U-waistcoat, with my black watch tartan trews. I feel this is more distinctive, but perhaps would stand out a bit too much.

I'm sure combining the tartan bow tie, cummerbund and trews would be too much.

Thoughts?
post #19942 of 28364
Option 2 with a black tie would be more classic. I see this worn at military balls all of the time. Black Watch is acceptable for anyone to wear- but you will give the impression that you are of Scottish descent, whether you are or not.
post #19943 of 28364

Just wondering how the fit of this dress shirt is. I am a college student trying to transition to a more professional wardrobe. This is a small BR tailored slim shirt. The arms are too long/baggy correct? How is the body? Sorry for the poor quality image.

 

 

post #19944 of 28364
Arms can be slimmed for probably around ~$15. So if the shirt is still within your budget after alterations then keep it.
post #19945 of 28364
Should I go with plain or patterned gold buttons for a navy blazer?
post #19946 of 28364

Where could I acquire some heavyish blackwatch tartan trousers? I don't have the cash for anything approaching purple label, even on sale.

post #19947 of 28364
Quote:
Originally Posted by clarksdb View Post

Should I go with plain or patterned gold buttons for a navy blazer?

I like metal buttons, other people here don't. But if you don't go with metal, have something contrasting put on- horn is the classic choice. Matching buttons are boring as hell, and make it look too much like you just took the jacket from a suit.

I say metal instead of gold because gold tones are not your only choice- my current blazer has antique silver buttons.
post #19948 of 28364
Quote:
Originally Posted by cptjeff View Post

I say metal instead of gold because gold tones are not your only choice- my current blazer has antique silver buttons.

Mine aren't silver, but are stainless steel, and I do love the slightly different contrast. Still clearly a blazer, but a bit different than the standard brass buttons.
post #19949 of 28364
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post

Mine aren't silver, but are stainless steel, and I do love the slightly different contrast. Still clearly a blazer, but a bit different than the standard brass buttons.

I'm not sure if mine actually silver either, but that's the name of the finish. Probably plated or something.
post #19950 of 28364
Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanGent View Post

Option 2 with a black tie would be more classic. I see this worn at military balls all of the time. Black Watch is acceptable for anyone to wear- but you will give the impression that you are of Scottish descent, whether you are or not.

Not sure I follow - either option has black watch in it... it's just a question of bow tie + cummerbund or bow tie + trews.
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