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post #19846 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanGent View Post

I've always thought of them as a "nice touch" rather than a useful thing.  Dressing well is about the details and we don't really have many places in which to add some tasteful flair.  Working/surgeon's cuffs just shows (to anyone who knows to look) that you have spent some attention and money on your suit.  Some folks wear the last button undone for a little bit of flash.  I think it might be a bit gauche.. but I admit I have done it.

When I had my first suit made with surgeons cuffs I read about their history and from what I recall surgeons asked to have them on their suits to keep their cuffs clean in surgery.  This effectually separated them from the lower-classes and was a sign of stature. 

I think that last bit is where they still have a purpose, if any. 

Of course nowadays all of the cheaper fashion-forward brands (Charles Tyrwhitt and Suit Supply off the top of my head) are aware that this is a detail people want, and all of their suits have it. So it's no longer a sign of having spent money or attention.

Sort of like spoilers on cars. Believe it or not, there was once a time when they only appeared on cars that actually needed them to stay planted on the road while cornering at speed. But once people associated them with "cool" cars they started appearing on everything.

Anyway, people will need to come up with a new dog whistle to discreetly show off how special their high-end suits are, because surgeon's cuffs no longer do it.
post #19847 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcbrown View Post

Of course nowadays all of the cheaper fashion-forward brands (Charles Tyrwhitt and Suit Supply off the top of my head) are aware that this is a detail people want, and all of their suits have it. So it's no longer a sign of having spent money or attention.

Sort of like spoilers on cars. Believe it or not, there was once a time when they only appeared on cars that actually needed them to stay planted on the road while cornering at speed. But once people associated them with "cool" cars they started appearing on everything.

Anyway, people will need to come up with a new dog whistle to discreetly show off how special their high-end suits are, because surgeon's cuffs no longer do it.

Yep. First it was pick stitching, then working buttons... Wonder what will be next?
post #19848 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcbrown View Post


Of course nowadays all of the cheaper fashion-forward brands (Charles Tyrwhitt and Suit Supply off the top of my head) are aware that this is a detail people want, and all of their suits have it. So it's no longer a sign of having spent money or attention.

Sort of like spoilers on cars. Believe it or not, there was once a time when they only appeared on cars that actually needed them to stay planted on the road while cornering at speed. But once people associated them with "cool" cars they started appearing on everything.

Anyway, people will need to come up with a new dog whistle to discreetly show off how special their high-end suits are, because surgeon's cuffs no longer do it.

I've actually some guys who take OTR suits and have the buttons opened to achieve the look of a higher-end suit.  I was trying to think of an analogy earlier- but the spoiler one was better than what I came up with.  I still think I will ask for them on my next suit.   

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

I'm not really sure there is a good argument for getting working button holes to keep one's cuffs from getting messy. It takes 20x as long to unbutton all of the buttons (less if you leave the last one undone) than it does to simply remove the jacket.


I think this was in the Edwardian era?  But I'd have to look it up. 

 

EDIT: Just looked it up and found a paragraph about surgeon's cuffs:

 

Savile Row was inhabited largely by surgeons before the tailors moved in during the 19th century, and their influence can be seen in the “surgeon's cuff”. On the most expensive suits the cuff buttons, which mirror the pips of military rank, can be undone, allowing the sleeve to be rolled back. This let surgeons attend patients spouting blood without removing their coats—an important distinction that set them apart from shirt-sleeved tradesmen of the lower orders. Surgeon's shirts, with detachable cuffs, are still made to order by London tailors.

http://www.economist.com/node/17722802


Edited by AmericanGent - 1/18/13 at 9:56am
post #19849 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by azumi View Post

Well, I think you are referring to a classic trench coat. I personally think that a modern trench coat can be single breasted. I know a lighter color makes me look bigger but somebody said that a small guy (shorter than 6') shouldn't wear a double breasted trench coat (especially a light color double breasted trench coat). So, I'm wondering that should I wear a light color trench coat (single breasted) since I'm only 5'8" frown.gif

What you are referring to is not a trench coat. You can certainly have single breasted raincoats, and they look perfectly fine, but they are not trenchcoats. Words have meanings, and trenchcoat is a specific type of raincoat, not just a word used to describe any classic raincoat you want. Basically, double breasted and belted are the key elements to a trenchcoat- some would also say it has to be mid length, but makers have been playing around with the length from day one, so I wouldn't include that.

As for color, your size doesn't matter, whoever told you that you shouldn't wear a real trenchcoat was wrong. Wear what you like, just make sure it's sized appropriately. I'm 5'6" and own both a classic tan trenchcoat and a black Mackintosh (single breasted raincoat with a covered fly, probably what you're looking at). I find the trench gets more wear when I'm dressed fairly formally and the Mac more wear when I'm in business casual. YMMV. Tan is certainly a perfectly acceptable color for a smaller guy to wear, as is navy. Pick whichever you like.
post #19850 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by mixedmajik View Post

Has anyone tried the Mr. B's line (from Aldo) Chastin shoes? They look like white bucks and are on sale right now...have a leather sole too...not sure about the brand or this shoe from them in particular...google mr. b chastin and you can find it...in class right now so I can't get too distracted looking for the link.

I haven't tried these particular shoes, but have the Blake boot my Mr. B's which is really quite awesome. I'm not sure the "Chastin" has a leather sole -- i think it's that reddish rubber. One thing, the boots run very large and wide, and these shoes might as well. I normally wear EU41 but got EU39.
post #19851 of 28664

Does anyone know a good source for Canali?

At what price point do you think the coat in the spoiler thing will be at?

The peacoat is from Canali Fall 2013, at roughly what time is the fall line available? 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Thank you for your time, and for a great and addicting forum!

post #19852 of 28664

Tried posting this before but my pics weren't working so it got buried. This is my first MTM shirt from Modern Tailor. I think the sleeves are too long and I'm trying to adjust the measurements to get it to fit perfectly. Do you guys have any specific advise regarding what I should change? Thanks!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #19853 of 28664
post #19854 of 28664

If i am a size 8.5 in Magnanni's double monk strap (Tried them on at nordstrom) , what would my size be in Meermin double monks? 

post #19855 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumpelstiltskin View Post


flip+of+the+coin+holster,+vest.jpg

post #19856 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaytonaJoe View Post

Tried posting this before but my pics weren't working so it got buried. This is my first MTM shirt from Modern Tailor. I think the sleeves are too long and I'm trying to adjust the measurements to get it to fit perfectly. Do you guys have any specific advise regarding what I should change? Thanks!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

The sleeves are definitely too long. Take more pictures with the cuffs buttoned and the shirt tucked in while wearing pants that you would typically wear with this shirt.

post #19857 of 28664

I really want to use this tie from Drake's on next saturday (student ball at my faculty at uni). I have a navy suit and a medium gray suit to choose between. Either white shirt or a pale blue/light blue shirt. 1: Navy suit or grey? 2: White or blue shirt? Appreciate any help on this. :)

 

If this isn't appropriate I have a solid navy tie of decent quality and a purple grenadine (drake's) on its way in the mail, though I'm a bit unsure whether it will arrive in time for the ball. In addition I was thinking of using either a white linen PS or this newly acquired form Berg&Berg. What do you think?

 

 

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90


Edited by Xtra2 - 1/19/13 at 7:04am
post #19858 of 28664

Really any combo you mention will work- I think it comes down to personal preferences and what suits you the best. 

For me, I would go grey suit white shirt and the tie/PS you show above- but I'm a pretty conservative guy and that may be a little too dry for your style.  I wouldn't go blue suit with this blue tie, perhaps a lighter blue but I try to avoid being too Regis Philbin with the color palette. 

Try laying the outfits on your bed and play with the options- or post pics for better guidance than mine!   

post #19859 of 28664

whats a good "summer tie"? 

 

something with texture. Would Cashmere work?

 

(would be wearing with a linen suit, and i don't think a linen tie would be optimal, right?)

post #19860 of 28664
Quote:
Originally Posted by dustinmyself View Post

whats a good "summer tie"? 

 

something with texture. Would Cashmere work?

 

(would be wearing with a linen suit, and i don't think a linen tie would be optimal, right?)

Well, cotton's always good, as is silk. I don't think you'd want cashmere; isn't it supposed to be really warm?

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