Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here - Page 1065

Perhaps this needs to be a new thread, but here goes. I buy fabric in sham shui po, a fabric district in Hong Kong where swatches of about every kind of fabric imaginable are available. I have friends who source/design clothing for a living, so they have shown me the better quality shops where fabric from Japan or Italy really comes from where it says it does. But my issue is that while the swatch cards tell you the composition of the fabric (eg W100 for 100% wool) they do not say anything about the weave or fiber -- at least for wool. I don't know the micron count, ie whether the wool is super 100, 110, 150, 200 etc. And I'm a bit worried that some of the wool is not worsted at all. Now, while this is my first post, I've read a number of posts on wool suiting fabrics on this site and most of what I've seen tends to recommend the highest quality name brand fabrics like Zegna. I'm not interested in those mostly because they cost more than I am willing to spend. Instead I'm looking for a good deal -- 100% Wool or 98% with a bit of stretch at sham shui po goes for less than US$10/yard with a minimum 5 yard purchase. Apparently I've yet to learn the lesson that what seems too good to be true, actually is. Regardless, my question is if there is any way to tell the type of weave or fiber quality of wool from a small swatch.

Definitely not, unless you're directly connected to them. We do alot of (amateur)discussion about various brands and companies.

Gentlemen. Just a quick question, yes I know its more suited for the tailor thread but I thought id ask here, My tailor let out my jacket a fraction and now the vent looks way too loose or is this the 'norm' for vents?

 

 

I apologize for the quality.

I am having an issue with several pairs of my shoes (C&J in particular). When walking, there is a whooshing noise that comes from the shoes as if air is being forced out of the shoe on each step.

Does this come from heel movement? My heels do not lift or rub, but there does seem to be some slight movement. I tried on this size and a size smaller in the shop, but this seemed to work better.

Any clues what causes this and how it can be rectified?

Thanks

I have the same issue with a pair of Allen Edmonds loafers. They fit great, so I am not going to take them back and get a different size. I also don't know how to get rid of the noise.

If my pant waist fits fine, but the pockets are flaring, does that mean they're too tight in the seat?

Most likely, yes. Better to fit the seat and have the waist taken in.

 

Thank you! Does that imply a high twist cloth will have a certain kind of hand/feel? I'm not familiar with fresco so I can't compare mentally the difference between it and flannel. Would this have any effect on the way it drapes/is there any conventional wisdom about buying pieces with higher vs. lower twist?

Are the front pockets of a sport coat supposed to be functional, do you ever store anything in them?

The tailor that I go to told me that you are not supposed to use them.

If you store heavy stuff in there regularly, the pockets can bag over time. Thus the recommendation against using them. But it's up to you. They work, and some guys like the look of a well-loved garment.

I use the front pockets for small things fairly often. Big bulky stuff? No, but if, say, I run to the drugstore and whatever small item (say a tin of altoids), I'll throw it in there rather than carrying it in a bag.

locking for a sports coat worn by Robert deniro in movie casino,it was blue but a deep color can't seem to find any manufacturer that carries it.It was unique

Thanks for the replies guys!

What about the inside pockets?

A jacket's inside pockets are intended to be used. One might routinely carry a wallet or a pair of glasses in the breast pocket, for example. Stuffing a pocket so full that it presents an unsightly bulge isn't recommended, but the same could just as easily be said for pants pockets.

The outside pockets aren't really intended to be used (not counting the outside breast pocket, which might hold a pocket square). Indeed, more than a few men don't even have removed the basting which hold these pockets closed. (That's right - these outside pockets often come stitched closed when you buy them.) The rationale - assuming the failure to remove the stitching is an intentional decision, and not simply a product of ignorance - is that if the pockets can't be used, the man won't wind up using them out of force of habit. For example, he won't be able to put his keys in the pocket, won't stand around with his hand in his pocket, etc.

Personally, I think the stitches should be removed, but the pockets shouldn't be used for anything larger/heavier than a ticket stub. And ideally, shouldn't be used at all.

However, to the extent using a jacket's outside pockets can be tolerated, I tolerate it far more readily when we're talking about, say, a casual sport coat, or even the ubiquitous navy blazer, than when the jacket is part of a suit.
--
Michael