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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

okazaki

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I'm ~6'1"-6'2" tall, and wear a 44 jacket. What tie width should I be shooting for, and what is the narrowest I should go? (Sorry, don't know lapel width off top of my head, but they're fairly narrow).
 

dwightlathan77

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Nov 16, 2010
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I'm not a bodybuilder, but have always had a hard time getting into suit jackets without divots and puckering. I've been told its because the deltoids, lats stretching the armholes. In my experience it's compounded because I push my arms into my side when I stand and it flattens my biceps. I've recently purchased a M2M suit to get past it, but its still going on in a big way!

This is the first attempt without alterations, so am not worried about the lack of waist suppression or the tight pants since thats an easy fix, but..

How do you order a suit to eliminate the upper arm divots? Even the businesses specializing in men's suites and alterations in my area can't help me!

suit.jpg


This is a first ordering of an Indochino suit, so you can also use it to help determine their expected fit on the first try.

Measurements:
Height: 6'-2"
Weight: 206 lbs

Jacket
Length: 33
Chest: 43.5
Stomach: 37 (ordered 40)
Hips: 42
Shoulder: 21
Sleeve: 27
Bicep: 15.25

Pants
Length: 42.5 (From waist)
Waist: 37 (Natural)
Crotch: 29
Hips: 43
Thigh: 26
Knee: 18
 

spencers

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Sep 29, 2008
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Found this on Tumblr a week or so ago. If I may, I'd like to request deets on the jacket, as I'd love to pick one up for myself. Perhaps the person is on the forums? I envy the Filson 257, as well. Thanks!
 

Smudge

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Sep 1, 2009
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^^ My impression is that altering the sleeve pitch will cure the ripples that seem to exist behind your arms (@ triceps). Not sure about how to cure the divots themselves but I'm sure someone far more knowledgeable than me will comment soon.
 

Newstyle

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Sep 17, 2010
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Elbow patches on a sweater, too old man or stylish for a young guy?
 

cptjeff

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Jan 19, 2010
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Originally Posted by Newstyle
Elbow patches on a sweater, too old man or stylish for a young guy?
It's a classic, practical detail. That said, it does have an old man association, so you have to tread carefully. If it fits well and you carry it off, you should be fine. If it's schlumpy and you're not confident in it, you'll come across as such and people will pull out the negative associations rather than registering "hey, he looks good!". It's the same thing with tweed and cardigans. Do it right, it's style. Do it wrong, and people pull out the grandpa lines. The overriding issue is that almost any form of classic menswear apart from a standard dark business suit will remind a large number of young people of their grandfathers, since that's the last generation that wore classic menswear as regular dress rather than dress up. So all those classic options will be viewed as old people clothes when they never had that connotation before. As usual, the Boomers fucked things up.
 

IronRock

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Jun 22, 2010
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Originally Posted by Newstyle
^ That is exactly what I'm looking for, but that has elbow patches
ffffuuuu.gif
(I think my girlfriend would kill me if I bought that).


Buy it, take it to an alterations tailor and get them unstiched. Or leave them on - I think they look ok.

Originally Posted by dwightlathan77
I'm not a bodybuilder, but have always had a hard time getting into suit jackets without divots and puckering. I've been told its because the deltoids, lats stretching the armholes. In my experience it's compounded because I push my arms into my side when I stand and it flattens my biceps. I've recently purchased a M2M suit to get past it, but its still going on in a big way!

This is the first attempt without alterations, so am not worried about the lack of waist suppression or the tight pants since thats an easy fix, but..

How do you order a suit to eliminate the upper arm divots? Even the businesses specializing in men's suites and alterations in my area can't help me!


Ok - if that is a MTM then in my opinion it is badly measured. I think they need to make the width of the sleeve bigger and the shoulder width slightly wider. I am sure someone else will give you a better answer but from where I'm sitting it seems that if they measured you properly you would not have these problems.
 

NOBD

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Oct 30, 2008
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Originally Posted by spencers
Found this on Tumblr a week or so ago. If I may, I'd like to request deets on the jacket, as I'd love to pick one up for myself. Perhaps the person is on the forums?

IST66.
 

RangerP

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Joined
Sep 16, 2010
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I have recently started wearing better shoes and I'm embarrassed to say that I haven't bought any shoe care products yet. I've only worn each pair twice just in case the leather is dry and might crack.

I own 4 pairs, all Allen Edmonds. 2 black, 2 Walnut in color. Would this be a good start for shoe care:

2 x Horsehair Dauber
1 x Premium Shoe Polish in BLACK
1 x Premium Shoe Polish in Walnut
2 x Cotton Flannel Polishing Cloth
1 x Horsehair Shine Brush
1 x Conditioner/Cleaner

All these are in my cart on the AE website and I'm just waiting for a confirmation to pull the trigger.

Is there a better or cheaper brand that I should go with? a product I'm missing?

Also, what's the use of Shoe Cream as opposed to conditioner/cleaner and shoe polish. do I need the Shoe Cream?
 

wetnose

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Feb 14, 2009
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Originally Posted by RangerP

2 x Horsehair Dauber
1 x Premium Shoe Polish in BLACK
1 x Premium Shoe Polish in Walnut
2 x Cotton Flannel Polishing Cloth
1 x Horsehair Shine Brush
1 x Conditioner/Cleaner

Is there a better or cheaper brand that I should go with? a product I'm missing?

Also, what's the use of Shoe Cream as opposed to conditioner/cleaner and shoe polish. do I need the Shoe Cream?


You do need another shine brush - since you don't want to apply black polish to your walnut shoes.

I suggest another shoe polish in oxblood - apply occasionally to the walnut shoes so it'd give a bit of depth to the color. Won't change the base color.

IMO, you don't need the horsehair dauber - just an old terry cloth for application is fine.

Shoe cream is basically the same as conditioner - but I could be wrong.
 

acecow

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Dec 18, 2009
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Originally Posted by RangerP
I have recently started wearing better shoes and I'm embarrassed to say that I haven't bought any shoe care products yet. I've only worn each pair twice just in case the leather is dry and might crack.

I own 4 pairs, all Allen Edmonds. 2 black, 2 Walnut in color. Would this be a good start for shoe care:

2 x Horsehair Dauber
1 x Premium Shoe Polish in BLACK
1 x Premium Shoe Polish in Walnut
2 x Cotton Flannel Polishing Cloth
1 x Horsehair Shine Brush
1 x Conditioner/Cleaner

All these are in my cart on the AE website and I'm just waiting for a confirmation to pull the trigger.

Is there a better or cheaper brand that I should go with? a product I'm missing?

Also, what's the use of Shoe Cream as opposed to conditioner/cleaner and shoe polish. do I need the Shoe Cream?


I'd suggest getting some neutral wax with or instead of the shoe polish cream. I'm not an authority on shoe care, but I follow the shoe polishing guide that Saint Crispin's have on their website and it worked well for me.
 

patrickBOOTH

Stylish Dinosaur
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Oct 16, 2006
Messages
38,393
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13,643
Originally Posted by RangerP
I have recently started wearing better shoes and I'm embarrassed to say that I haven't bought any shoe care products yet. I've only worn each pair twice just in case the leather is dry and might crack.

I own 4 pairs, all Allen Edmonds. 2 black, 2 Walnut in color. Would this be a good start for shoe care:

2 x Horsehair Dauber
1 x Premium Shoe Polish in BLACK
1 x Premium Shoe Polish in Walnut
2 x Cotton Flannel Polishing Cloth
1 x Horsehair Shine Brush
1 x Conditioner/Cleaner

All these are in my cart on the AE website and I'm just waiting for a confirmation to pull the trigger.

Is there a better or cheaper brand that I should go with? a product I'm missing?

Also, what's the use of Shoe Cream as opposed to conditioner/cleaner and shoe polish. do I need the Shoe Cream?


You need an old tee shirt, saphir renovateur for conditioning, a black tin of saphir wax and a medium brown tin of saphir wax, and a horsehair brush.
 

JamesX

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2010
Messages
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Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
You need an old tee shirt, saphir renovateur for conditioning, a black tin of saphir wax and a medium brown tin of saphir wax, and a horsehair brush.

To add to the above

I tend to avoid Wax because I am too lazy to strip them every few months. Cream works fine for me.
 

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