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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear) - Page 439

post #6571 of 33196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dinhilion View Post
Thanks for both answers. My next question is more specific. I measure out to a 38 l. As far ad I can tell, virtually no on makes suits in this size. I am looking to spend around 500. Am I doomed to online m2m? My measurements. Chest: 37.5 in Shoulders:18-18.5 (I'm not quite sure if i'm doing this one correctly sleeves: 26 in (I don't have a good suit to get this measurement off of but I think this is right) Jacket length: 31 in. From what I can tell, I my shoulders may fit in some 40l, but will leave a lot of room in the chest for me to tailor. So my two questions are Can I tailor 2 to 3 inches off the chest without destroying how the jacket looks Or Can anyone tell me where to get a 38l suit for 500 or so
So I never really got a solid answer on my first question, whether a tailor can take 2 to 3 off the chest of a jacket with out killing it? Any more help. And thanks to those who were .helping before.
post #6572 of 33196
When you start large alterations the cost starts to out weigh any benefit. Unless the jacket is free you're often better off just going MTM. In theory anything can be done. The thing you need to consider is it worth it.
post #6573 of 33196
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMSBNSN View Post
Would it be a style faux pas to wear a casual jacket and pants that are the same color? (In my case, khaki harrington with khaki pants) And if so, should I buy a darker khaki harrington? Or would that also be a bad look?
Generally speaking, a jacket should not be the same color as your trousers unless you're wearing a suit. There may be some exceptions for jackets that are sufficiently lighter or darker than your trousers, but if you have to ask, you probably don't yet have the knack to do it without it looking off.
post #6574 of 33196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenneth Cole Haan View Post
Shoe N00b question

I'm looking at getting some real dress shoes. (At Sky Valet) I notice that EG is almost $1000 new, and Crockett is relatively cheap.

Is Edward Green worth the price difference compared to brands like Crockett?
That's like asking whether a Porsche is worth 4x a Honda Accord. Some people value the things offered by a Porsche and are willing to pay for it. Others find the Accord sufficient for their needs and/or budget. There are lots of threads in the Men's Clothing forum that discuss the details of what the different shoe makers offer. C&J is certainly a respectable shoe, but EG offers a shoe that is constructed with higher-quality materials and construction.
post #6575 of 33196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenneth Cole Haan View Post
Shoe N00b question

I'm looking at getting some real dress shoes. (At Sky Valet) I notice that EG is almost $1000 new, and Crockett is relatively cheap.

Is Edward Green worth the price difference compared to brands like Crockett?

I would encourage you to go look at them IRL and make the decision yourself if EG is worth the price different. With the budget i had, i went C&J.
post #6576 of 33196
If I'm wearing EGs in size 8F UK (last 202, which is pretty generous), should I look for the C&J shoes in F width, too?
post #6577 of 33196
Why do some suits have visible stitching like 1 mm in from the edge of the jacket all around the lapels, etc. What's that called? What's the point? Personally, I don't like the look.
post #6578 of 33196
Quote:
Originally Posted by user7 View Post
Why do some suits have visible stitching like 1 mm in from the edge of the jacket all around the lapels, etc. What's that called? What's the point? Personally, I don't like the look.

Pick stitching, traditionally evidence of handwork.
post #6579 of 33196
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueHorseShoe View Post
Pick stitching, traditionally evidence of handwork.
Pick-stitching can be done without being visible though, whether by hand or by machine. In-fact all coats have pick-stitching of some sort, it stops the edge from rolling, the only difference being whether it's visible or not.
post #6580 of 33196
[quote=cptjeff;4155826]Are we talking forest green, lime green, or something like an olive?

we're talking more of a lime green - bright and splashy for the summer. cheers mate.
post #6581 of 33196
Quote:
Originally Posted by cptjeff View Post
Oil? If mink oil, which would have been a pretty decent choice for restoring the leather, make sure you brush 'em real well to get the remnants off, otherwise you'll have a fit polishing 'em. If something else, I hope you didn't use something that will hurt them.

As for polish color, they appear to be brown to me. I would use brown polish, and at least for the first few times, use cream polish. Better for the leather, and the leather on those looks like it could use some TLC. Also, you need new laces.

Or use something like a tan, which won't have as much dye, keeping the color close to what it is now. If you like the patina.

Treat 'em right. Unless I'm sorely mistaken, those are old florsheims. That's a quality shoe, and should last for ages with proper care. Usually I recommend that people have the leather heel replaced with rubber on those, but I see the previous owner has done that for you.

I typed out a whole reply and I...see it did not post or something. Weird. Anyway, yeah, I used mink oil. It substantially revitalized them. I took some "before" photos so that I can compare when the whole process is done. Thanks for the brushing-after-oiling advice though.

So I'll use a cream to polish them the first few times. I don't know much about waxes and creams, other than to, you know, use them, so excuse my ignorance here: putting the wrong color (tan) on a shoe (brown) makes me nervous. It won't make any parts look weird or off-color? And yes, I'm excited about keeping the patina around.

These shoes area actually by Crosby Square. There's something written in cursive above the words Crosby Square in the heel that's been faded to the point I can't make it out. They feel shockingly sturdy. A logo inside of them says they were made by (working from memory) the Boot and Shoe Worker's Union, AFL-CIO, and their production code is 3874--could they be from 1974?

And yes, the laces are bad, but their aglets are crimped in a way I've never seen before--in a series of bands.
post #6582 of 33196
Quote:
Originally Posted by onix View Post
A question on button stance: is the ideal positions of the main button (the middle one for 3-button or 3-roll-2, the top one for 2-button) the same across all of the aforementioned types of jacket?

Any take?
post #6583 of 33196
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghdvfddzgzdzg View Post
I can't tell if they're really faded cordovan or just a brown color.

They aren't cordovan.
post #6584 of 33196
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum View Post
Pick-stitching can be done without being visible though, whether by hand or by machine. In-fact all coats have pick-stitching of some sort, it stops the edge from rolling, the only difference being whether it's visible or not.

Ah, good to know. But the visible pick stitching is (historically) done by hand, no? I recognize now that machines imitate this.
post #6585 of 33196
Attending wedding in Key West on March 12 @ 5:00 pm. Invitation states "cocktail attire". A dark suit doesn't seem appropriate, and tan poplin feels too casual. I think is too early for linen/seersucker, or does that rule not apply when that far south?

Right now I am thinking light grey worsted pants with navy hopsack blazer. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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