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post #32671 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by cakv View Post

Genuine question: why are many of the great dressers on this community going for the "no break and inseam short enough to expose my socks" look?
Because it's currently fashionable. It's the current trend. It's what is seen in magazines and on pop culture celebrities.

Eventually, pants with a significant break and a more generous inseam will be in fashion. And many of the great dressers will follow that trend.

It's rather like asking why so many opt for narrow lapels. Or slim-fitting jackets. Fashions change. If they didn't, they wouldn't be fashions; they'd be eternals.
post #32672 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by justonemore View Post


Come now...mentioning Bespoke wouldn't have gone well with my joke. Lol.

Perhaps you're on to something with the break but there are still plenty of us here with pretty nice collections that maintain a classic style. I myself think the "many great dressers here" is a bit of an exaggeration versus "a few" or perhaps "a slightly increasing number of"....but perhaps I'm wrong.. of course it wouldn't be the first time a "fashion trend" has come along either.

Hahaha, well, I didn't mean the majority when I said "many". You have good fits in the HOF. I just don't understand it; I saw a fit from a respected member where the hem didn't even touch the top of the shoe...I'm just looking for perspective is all. I still prefer a quarter to half/moderate break, but to each his own. Do you think it's here to stay?


@Churchill W I agree with you; I don't think full break looks good, but the stuff I've been seeing is pushing towards the other end of the spectrum. This is pretty idyllic, no?

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
18245c87_s.jpeg

ever so slightly less than this:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

LL

@12345Michael54321

Thanks for your input. I understand that part, but I would think that people on SF are relatively immune to those things? 

post #32673 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by cakv View Post

Thanks for your input. I understand that part, but I would think that people on SF are relatively immune to those things? 
You don't think that plenty of people on SF care about fashion trends? Excuse me while I laugh.

Sure, I prefer a more traditional, non-short-and-tight look. But I'm a dinosaur. Albeit, a well dressed one.
post #32674 of 33197
Headed to Vegas for a conference for work.

I've always been really conservative about what I wear, but my industry isn't really that formal.

Thoughts about going with a slightly more casual look, but still with a blazer?

I own a navy blazer and light gray wool trousers, but obviously pairing this with a white or light blue shirt is kind of a boring standard.

Go with a subtly patterned pants? Non-solid dress shirt? Other ideas to look a little less boring but still sharp?
post #32675 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerostyle View Post

Headed to Vegas for a conference for work.

I've always been really conservative about what I wear, but my industry isn't really that formal.

Thoughts about going with a slightly more casual look, but still with a blazer?

I own a navy blazer and light gray wool trousers, but obviously pairing this with a white or light blue shirt is kind of a boring standard.

Go with a subtly patterned pants? Non-solid dress shirt? Other ideas to look a little less boring but still sharp?

Depending on if you're opting for the tie or not/ You could always get a stripe/check shirt to add a little fun in combo. Not a huge fan of having pattern down below, seems imbalanced to me somehow as it'll draw attention away from your face when ideally you should try to keep eyes on the upper body.

 

In other case, a button down shirt with a knit tie brings a casual flair. Or no tie but a simple white pocket square folded in one of the more flamboyant way can look quite sharp

post #32676 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Churchill W View Post

I feel less break looks less messy.

+1

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by cakv View Post
 

Genuine question: why are many of the great dressers on this community going for the "no break and inseam short enough to expose my socks" look?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by cakv View Post
 

Hahaha, well, I didn't mean the majority when I said "many". You have good fits in the HOF. I just don't understand it; I saw a fit from a respected member where the hem didn't even touch the top of the shoe...I'm just looking for perspective is all. I still prefer a quarter to half/moderate break, but to each his own. Do you think it's here to stay?


@Churchill W I agree with you; I don't think full break looks good, but the stuff I've been seeing is pushing towards the other end of the spectrum. This is pretty idyllic, no?

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
18245c87_s.jpeg

ever so slightly less than this:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

LL

@12345Michael54321

Thanks for your input. I understand that part, but I would think that people on SF are relatively immune to those things? 

Well I mean there are different types of trends we see - those in magazines or runways that clearly go against the traditional means and simply does not serve the purpose to complement a man's features, and those that are modern adjustments meant to make things easier and seem somewhat comparatively reasonable. It's like the black-tie code evolving from the tailcoats to the post-depression turndown collar. No-break seem to be, as of now anyway, the turndown collar of the black-tie dress. You're kind of right on the fact that we're relatively immune though; no one is really immune from trends, we all watch out for them but as the SF members have more knowledge of the 'whys' in traditional standard we're more careful on deciding which trends are sane enough to adopt. 

post #32677 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by VirgilVerne View Post

Depending on if you're opting for the tie or not/ You could always get a stripe/check shirt to add a little fun in combo. Not a huge fan of having pattern down below, seems imbalanced to me somehow as it'll draw attention away from your face when ideally you should try to keep eyes on the upper body.

In other case, a button down shirt with a knit tie brings a casual flair. Or no tie but a simple white pocket square folded in one of the more flamboyant way can look quite sharp

Planning on no tie / open collar. I do kind of agree that patterned pants tend to look somewhat tacky, but was considering a very subtle pattern, maybe something like These grey houndstooth ones or these light brown sharkskins.

I think I'll aim for a simple checked shirt, maybe navy+red?
post #32678 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerostyle View Post


Planning on no tie / open collar. I do kind of agree that patterned pants tend to look somewhat tacky, but was considering a very subtle pattern, maybe something like These grey houndstooth ones or these light brown sharkskins.

I think I'll aim for a simple checked shirt, maybe navy+red?

I see what you mean. Yeah those trousers should work nicely, I'd prefer the grey with navy+red if you do go for it. 

post #32679 of 33197

1) I just took in a suit for dry cleaning and alterations -- ended up tapering the legs quite a bit (admittedly it's a suit that's a few years old, maybe mid-2000s?, so probably not a ~fashionable~ cut); didn't make any changes, however, to the suit jacket. Maybe it's difficult to picture and therefore impossible to give a good answer to my question: Was it a mistake to taper the pants without doing anything to the jacket? Also, the dude pinning me up remarked that cuffed pants are out of style -- True?

 

2) Same location, I asked for a few shirt sleeves to be shortened. There were two options: A) move just the cuff up the preferred distance OR B) move the cuff and the sleeve placket up together. A cost $18 while B would cost $28. The tailor and I decided that A was better in my situation since I was only asking the sleeves to be reduced by an inch EXCEPT on one shirt, where two inches needed to be cut out, so to speak. We measured two inches on the shirt itself, and there was maybe another 1/2 inch left between where the 'new cuff' would end and the placket button. The dude said it was up to me whether I went w/ A or B, but he said A (again, the cheaper option) would be fine since no one pays attention to the distance between that button and the cuff. It's true, I haven't ever noticed it. But will it still look weird for that placket button do be about 1/2 inch up from the cuff?

post #32680 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewST View Post

1)Was it a mistake to taper the pants without doing anything to the jacket? Also, the dude pinning me up remarked that cuffed pants are out of style -- True?

It was if the jacket is comparatively roomy / boxy in cut yet the trousers are now slim. You need to ensure harmony in the dimensions of both parts of the suit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewST View Post

But will it still look weird for that placket button do be about 1/2 inch up from the cuff?

Yes, a bit. But only you can know for sure whether it will bug you enough every time that you wear the shirt that it's worth paying the extra $10. I think you know the answer, because you asked the question...
post #32681 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by cakv View Post

Hahaha, well, I didn't mean the majority when I said "many". You have good fits in the HOF. I just don't understand it; I saw a fit from a respected member where the hem didn't even touch the top of the shoe...I'm just looking for perspective is all. I still prefer a quarter to half/moderate break, but to each his own. Do you think it's here to stay?

@Churchill W
 I agree with you; I don't think full break looks good, but the stuff I've been seeing is pushing towards the other end of the spectrum. This is pretty idyllic, no? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
18245c87_s.jpeg
ever so slightly less than this: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

LL
@12345Michael54321

Thanks for your input. I understand that part, but I would think that people on SF are relatively immune to those things? 

Here to stay? Some people will like the look and stick with it. Others will pick it up...so sure, we'll continue to see it.

Immune to trends here at SF? I would hope not..that is more the Ask Andy thing where even a slight mention of jeans brings people near to tears and violent militancy. I dress well & in a classic manner most of the time but I sure don't expect/demand that others do the same. The advantage here is that it is much more diverse, after 10 years of the hobby I still see and learn new things here...some I like...some I don't...but over there it's often the same Ole same Ole. It's a small conservative group with limited uses where they revere the founder's advice more than that of the aggregate of those that actually contribute on a daily basis...so...being educated and making your own choice to me is a good thing. Automatic "immunity" from change also tends to make one immune from positive change...and I do find it positive that I and most other men are not still running around in a version of panty hose.

Oh...and let's go on the theory that people are showing off their shoes...at least it probably means that people are wearing decent properly maintained shoes...which in itself is hardly a trend I'd disagree with..I'm much more forgiving of trouser breaks than cra**y shoes. Perhaps if we start with prestable shoes then just maybe sooner or later people will realize that no matter how nice the shoes, the missing break makes the trousers look as if they were poorly tailored. Who knows? Appreciating a bit of progress is perhaps better than expecting perfection as defined by oneself. And besides...I'm not sure I want everybody dressed as well as I am anyways. 😈😈😈

A lot of it comes down to perspective. The French don't show any cuff on their suits...but that's only a variation and doesn't mean that showing a bit of cuff is unacceptable elsewhere.
Edited by justonemore - 5/25/16 at 5:31am
post #32682 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by RatherAnOddball View Post

Do Incotex trousers have a lower-than-usual rise? Could one alter them to be worn with braces, or does their "style" exclude that possibility? Never seen them firsthand myself, but shop the finest has pages of them and I'm considering a few of them.


There is no law against wearing braces with a low rise trouser. It will look funny.  The purpose of wearing trousers with braces is so the trouser can be worn with a higher rise . Trousers hang better with braces because they can be easier in the waist and they hand from a constant point. This is important for those who have a "full stomach" which without braces would mean wearing their trousers below their stomach bulge.

Paul Winston

Winston Tailors/ www.chippneckwear.com

212 687-0850

post #32683 of 33197

Is there any website that I can combine clothes with different colours together? My imagination doesn't help me.

post #32684 of 33197
Help me out here. I want my boots re-soled, the sole and look I am after is attached in the photo. I realize these boots were produced by Wolverine and are discontinued, I just want that look.
My questions are:
-who can do this? I want a good cobbler to treat my boots right. I don't mind sending them off (but not for too long smile.gif)
-what do I ask for? What is the sole called?
-have you had this done, and how much did it cost?
-opinions for/against? Should I do another leather sole instead?
post #32685 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Churchill W View Post

I feel less break looks less messy.

Agree. A bit of break is great... but just a tiny bit. Any more and I feel like my pants start scrunching up too much.
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