or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear) - Page 2176

post #32626 of 33197
Hi all,

A new company I've joined very much goes by the blazer/suit + no tie look.

I'm looking for dress shirt recommendations that meet the following:

1. A good collar that doesn't flop around/fold up/etc
2. A button layout where I can leave the shirt unbuttoned, and not show a ton of skin, or look too uptight
3. Finally, thoughts on collar choice for this? Point vs. semi-spread vs. button-down?

For whatever reason I haven't previously really liked button-down collars paired with a jacket, but maybe that's just me.

Best shirts for < $60 (cheaper ones) and a few nicer staples < $100 or so? Open to MTM.

I have pretty narrow shoulders (17-17.5"), need a chest of around 41-42".
post #32627 of 33197
Spier and Mackey offers what you're looking for. Their semi spread looks great open.
post #32628 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerostyle View Post

Hi all,

A new company I've joined very much goes by the blazer/suit + no tie look.

I'm looking for dress shirt recommendations that meet the following:

1. A good collar that doesn't flop around/fold up/etc
2. A button layout where I can leave the shirt unbuttoned, and not show a ton of skin, or look too uptight
3. Finally, thoughts on collar choice for this? Point vs. semi-spread vs. button-down?

For whatever reason I haven't previously really liked button-down collars paired with a jacket, but maybe that's just me.

Best shirts for < $60 (cheaper ones) and a few nicer staples < $100 or so? Open to MTM.

I have pretty narrow shoulders (17-17.5"), need a chest of around 41-42".

Check out Luxire. You'll be able to specify anything you want. It's going to be in your higher range.
post #32629 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post

Spier and Mackey offers what you're looking for. Their semi spread looks great open.

These guys look perfect. Would you go with their classic or modern semi-spread? I'm a thinner guy and generally wear 3" ties and rather slim jackets (38)
post #32630 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by zerostyle View Post

These guys look perfect. Would you go with their classic or modern semi-spread? I'm a thinner guy and generally wear 3" ties and rather slim jackets (38)

I wear a 36 (but I'm pretty muscular on a small frame) and have their modern semi spread in the slim fit. I love it, it's the perfect spread for normal business wear in America. I'd highly suggest you try it.
post #32631 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

Those look solid.

They do, but a cap toe oxford is a fairly formal style. I wear austerity brogue snuff suede oxfords and brogued tan oxfords with jeans, but these may be too formal for me
post #32632 of 33197

Guys what do you think about this design? This is Goodyear welted. Would be my second pair of shoes, I want something quite versatile and I think this does the trick. Can easily wear with jeans, and perhaps even with a suit if it is not too formal event, right?

How would they compare to let's say these:

The burgundi double monks probably looks even better, but it's harder to pull off or?

post #32633 of 33197
the first would be my choice. the second would stick out, not necessarily in a good way, in the real world.
post #32634 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post

the first would be my choice. the second would stick out, not necessarily in a good way, in the real world.

fair enough.

 

But in general, the first lace shoes, are they good versatile or maybe I should look for something else? For instance, these I assume more formal, how would they compare to first ones?

 

or let's say:

Or all of this is purely my personal prefence? I assume all of them (except burgundi monks) are quite versatile to wear with jeans, etc?

post #32635 of 33197
Generally, open lacing is less formal than closed (the kind with a "V"). In your case, you're looking at brown shoes with a lot of perforations and other details. Basically three big things determine the formality of a shoe:

1) Color - black more formal than brown
2) Lacing - close more formal than open
3) Amount of embellishments - holes, wingtips, the "'zig zag" edges, etc.

All your shoes are pretty informal. They won't be great with a conservative suit, and they will look weird with jeans (dress shoes look off when worn with jeans IMO).
post #32636 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by estranged View Post

I want something quite versatile and I think this does the trick. Can easily wear with jeans, and perhaps even with a suit if it is not too formal event, right?
Ultimately, if you want a pair of shoes to wear with jeans, you should get a pair which will be at its best when worn with jeans. And if you want a pair which can be worn with a suit, you should get a pair which will be at its best when worn with a suit.

Two intended uses. Two pairs of shoes.

I get the whole desire for versatility. How we like to convince ourselves that it's the sensible approach to choosing which shoes to buy.

But it's not.

Buy one pair which can sort of work, kinda, with everything from jeans to not-very-formal suits, and you'll have one pair which is a mediocre choice for nearly everything, and an excellent choice for nearly nothing.

Whereas if you buy two pairs - one for each intended purpose - you'll have shoes which are an excellent choice for nearly everything.

Since shoes can last for decades with reasonable care, it's worth it to spend the extra money up front, and do things right.
post #32637 of 33197
Great advice 123
post #32638 of 33197

I need a new pair of black captoe balmorals.

 

Because I hated how most of them look, I went cheap and bought a used pair of Ferrogamos with glued on soles from Ebay. Fine. They served to convince me that a black captoe can look good, but they leather is pulling away from the soles, so it's time to get a quality pair.

 

I'm looking at Santoni, Kent Wang, and Meerim both the hand-welted and the regular line as I've come to desire a sleeker model.

 

The Santoni is almost three times as expensive as the next two. The Kent Wang and the Meerim hand-welted are about the same price while the Meerim regular line looks pretty nice especially for the price. I'm not against Ebay, but I don't know what to think about a deal like this where the shoe doesn't seem to match the current line.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SANTONI-Dress-Black-Leather-Shoes-SIZE-Eu-44-5-Uk-10-5-Us-11-5-4R-/161920190944?hash=item25b33209e0:g:o~UAAOSwCQNWcYVN

 

Other brands to consider? Personal reviews of the shoes in question?

 

 

In addition to new shoes, I took a hard look at my suit/jacket situation and concluded I need to throw most of it out.

 

The UGLY:

- Black Pierre Cardin suit from J C Penny that I bought before I found StyleForum. It's hideous, but sufficed for a couple funerals.

- Bone/grey Calvin Klein blazer with tragically narrow lapels that never gets worn because it feels like it's made of cardboard.

 

The BAD:

- Heather Canali blazer that I never wear because it looks horrible on me. The cut is wrong, and I'm done spending money on it.
- Gray plaid Canali suit that I bought at Nordstrom Rack based on the tag on the hanger, and it's too big. Yes, I'm an idiot.

The GOOD:
- Pale beige Samuelsohn minimally structured sport coat. I might wear this once I get the body let out. It took a while to figure out how to wear it.

- Navy linen Brooks Brothers suit I bought for a California wedding two years ago.

- Grey flannel Samuelsohn suit that I wear for interviews.

- Brown velvet blazer from Wilson Leather that oddly fits me really well, and it nice for Christmas festivities

 

After taking a hard look at things, I went to my local clothier, tried on suits or jackets from Kiton, Zegna, Canali Kei, Samuelsohn, Brunello Cucinelli, and Isaia.

 

A couple hours with a patient sales associate and I've discovered that I very much liked the natural shoulder, and minimal chest padding of the Isaia jackets followed by Kiton, and Zegna. The trouble of course is that even the Isaia base S was double what I wanted to spend, and of course the Kiton was more than double that.

 

It seems after some research here on the forum that Belvest is well-regarded and seems to have a shoulder similar to Isaia. Then, doing some looking around on Ebay, I found a charcoal Isaia, and a navy Belvest.

 

I can patiently watch Ebay, online discounters, etc, looking for something from Isaia, or Belvest, or get someone like Kent Wang to make me a suit. Thoughts?

post #32639 of 33197
I think that was a lot of questions. I also think that shoe fit matters a million times more than how they look. I also think that buying shoes online from a brand you've never tried on is asking for trouble.
post #32640 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joenobody0 View Post

I think that was a lot of questions. I also think that shoe fit matters a million times more than how they look. I also think that buying shoes online from a brand you've never tried on is asking for trouble.

Depends on the return/refund policy hahaha

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)