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Allen Edmonds: Sizing Guide
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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear) - Page 2043post #30631 of 331525/11/15 at 4:34pmYes, but no. The true test of matching, according to last generation Oxxford Co. Chicago, East European tailors (sorry, but considered the Golden Age of tailoring), the matching of stripes, plaids on top part to bottom cut of notch lapel has always been the hallmark of those in the know that it was a custom, or bespoke suit. Pocket matching or top of shoulder, means nothing. Please prove or try to disprove what I said- I hate conventional wisdom especially when I perpetuate itpost #30632 of 331525/11/15 at 4:49pmQuote:
The jacket is darted on the front, distorting the horizontal dimension of the pattern and causing the vertical line through the right pockets to temporarily "disappear." Thus, the pocket flap patterns don't line up perfectly on either side. The ticket pocket makes it more obvious, but the seam appears to "eat" the line more on the right than on the left, as well. Might be why this suit is on eBay.post #30633 of 331525/11/15 at 4:55pmQuote:Originally Posted by pstoller
The jacket is darted on the front, distorting the horizontal dimension of the pattern and causing the vertical line through the right pockets to temporarily "disappear." Thus, the pocket flap patterns don't line up perfectly on either side. The ticket pocket makes it more obvious, but the seam appears to "eat" the line more on the right than on the left, as well. Might be why this suit is on eBay.
Thank you. Informative post. I will have to revisit Matt S.'s dart post on thesuitsofjamesbond.post #30634 of 331525/11/15 at 5:40pmpost #30635 of 331525/12/15 at 10:59ampost #30636 of 331525/12/15 at 12:07pmpost #30637 of 331525/12/15 at 12:44pmQuote:I understand what you're saying, but bear in mind that it's usually wiser to save up until you have a little more money so that you can buy higher quality shoes. Maybe that means owning fewer pairs. That's okay. Generally, 3 pairs of excellent shoes win out over 6 pairs of mediocre ones.
Well, just a thought. But whichever way you go with this, don't blow off shoe maintenance. Properly cared for (cleaning, caring for the leather, shoe trees, etc.) a quality pair of shoes can last for decades, and look good all that time. Without proper care, even a great pair of shoes will age rapidly and not particularly gracefully. It's a lot like how your car probably won't give you many years of problem-free service, if you never bother changing the oil.
[/quote]post #30638 of 331525/12/15 at 8:33pmQuote:
EG Cappelli make very nice neats. Still not in your price range but their 'outlet' ties (RTW, nothing wrong with them despite the name) start at 50eu which is a lot less than marinella.
Also Malford of London recently had a sale on E Marinella factory seconds. Of its still going you can get them for 55pounds each and an extra 30% off if you buy 2 or more.post #30639 of 331525/12/15 at 8:53pmIQuote:
If the meermins fit well then just order another pair in a different colour/style . No need to go hunting for another brand just yet. Once you have 2 pairs to rotate you should be fine for a while. You can use that time to save for some nicer brands and visit some stores to try a few different lasts.
Also once you've had a chance to establish you size and last in a few brands you can scour the b/s forums and online sales for a few bargains.post #30640 of 331525/13/15 at 12:37pmpost #30641 of 331525/13/15 at 4:32pmQuote:
These have to do with the thickness of the spun cotton yarn used to weave the fabric for the shirt. One figure is for warp, the other for weft.
The first number in each figure states the size (thickness) of the yarn based on a length-to-mass ratio: 40 could mean 40 meters per gram (international system) or 40 hanks per lb. (English system). I'm afraid I don't know which system is being used here. Either way, the larger the number, the finer the yarn. The second number is for the ply—how many strands of yarn have been twisted together. 1 is single ply, meaning untwisted. 2 is two strands twisted together to form a thicker yarn.
So, 40/1 is a size 40 1-ply, 24/2 is a size 24 2-ply.
No fabric weight is inherently better. Rather, it depends on your goals for the fabric. Proper Cloth, for example, is advertising the heavier 40/1 x 24/2 material as thick, durable, and casual, appropriate for their oxford shirts. Whether you prefer that weight to a finer 40/1 x 40/1 for such a shirt is largely a matter of personal taste, though some materials are simply too light or heavy to be practical or desirable for a given application.post #30642 of 331525/14/15 at 5:35ampost #30643 of 331525/14/15 at 9:36ampost #30644 of 331525/14/15 at 10:13ampost #30645 of 331525/14/15 at 4:33pmQuote:Originally Posted by dragos25
How versatile would a tan suede/calf longwing be?
Something like this but lighter brown/walnut :
Also, I want to get a pair of plain-toe brown bluchers but can't decide between suede and calf.
Any thoughts? I plan to wear these casually, blazer and flannels at most and can't decide.
This sort of shoe is elegant, but not exactly subtle. The way you plan to wear them, they would likely be the distinguishing part of your outfit. This is not necessarily a bad thing; I do it all the time. (Heck, I'd wear those with jeans.) But, if you have one pair of remarkable shoes that you routinely wear with casual staples, you risk becoming "the guy with those shoes." So, yeah, you can dress up to them or not, in which sense they're versatile. But, you probably don't want to wear them three days a week. As one of at least two and preferably more pairs of dressier shoes in your rotation, they're great.
Calf and suede are both lovely and versatile. You can treat both for water resistance, but I'd still opt for calf if I lived in, say, Seattle. Otherwise, what you buy next depends on what else you have in your wardrobe. If you're just starting to build your shoe wardrobe, I think most guys would start with calf and then add suede later. But, you're not obligated to be like most guys.
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