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post #29596 of 33195
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12345Michael54321 View Post

I consider cardigans and sweaters with zippers to be insufficiently businesslike.
 

I agree with this statement regarding zip sweaters but since when is a cardigan not businesslike? Don't cardigans reflect business even more than v-neck sweaters do?

post #29597 of 33195
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheuk View Post
 

I need to purge three pairs of shoes from this lineup (guess why).  I'm having trouble so coming to you for some wise insight.

 

At work I am generally business casual, wear a suit (either navy or charcoal) occasionally.  Jeans and cords on weekends.

 

Black Captoe Bal (AE Park Ave)

Merlot Wingtip Bals (AE McAlister)

burgundy Shell cordovan Plain Toe Bluchers (AE Leeds)

burgundy Shell cordovan long wings (old Florsheims)

burgundy Shell Cordovan Penny Loafers (Alden LHS)

Brown captoe bluchers (Alden for BB)

Walnut "medallion perforated captoe" bals (Alfred Sargent for BB) (this in walnut)

this weird kiltie monkstrap that for some reason I can't get myself to return (C&J for black fleece, talk me out of it please, they're new and unworn still) (http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Dark-Brown-Kiltie-Wingtip/FH00035,default,pd.html)

 

OK, you say you need to cull three.

 

* Ditch the "weird kiltie monkstrap" because they are weird kiltie monkstraps

* Ditch the walnut AS.  It strikes me as a mostly suits shoe, which you already have covered, but in a relatively informal color.  Thus, not quite as versatile.

* Regarding the final choice, keep the brown bluchers because you don't need four maroon/burgundy/#8 shoes in a five shoe rotation and you have no other brown.  So you have to ditch one of the four dark red ones.  I'd ditch the Macs, despite my love of wingtiped oxfords.  Keep the three burg shells.  You obviously don't hate loafers or you wouldn't have bought it.  If you are going to have one, you have the One Loafer.  So keep that.  Keep the gunboats and wear them with whatever you want.  Keep the shell LWB's and lament the fact you didn't get them in brown shell.  Then you could have gotten by with four shoes in this exercise by also ditching the brown captoe bluchers.  :D

post #29598 of 33195
Quote:
Originally Posted by mixedmajik View Post

since when is a cardigan not businesslike?
I may have been overly hasty in my response.
Quote:
Don't cardigans reflect business even more than v-neck sweaters do?
Yes and no.

I definitely see cardigans as reflecting small business. When it comes to corporate headquarters, in urban centers, where conservative business attire is the norm (which is what I was thinking about when I wrote my response to Calculon88), not so much. It just strikes me as being too... folksy or bucolic, maybe? I readily concede that this may say more about my own biases and background than anything else, of course.

Glad we agree on at least the zip sweater thing, though.
post #29599 of 33195

I am receiving a couple pairs of unfinished trousers and need to get them hemmed and cuffed. What measurements of cuffs are preferred? Also, is hemming and cuffing a particularly delicate task that I should trust to a specific tailor, or can I just give these to the same guy that hems my denim for me?

post #29600 of 33195
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post
 

I am receiving a couple pairs of unfinished trousers and need to get them hemmed and cuffed. What measurements of cuffs are preferred? Also, is hemming and cuffing a particularly delicate task that I should trust to a specific tailor, or can I just give these to the same guy that hems my denim for me?

It depends how tall you are. I get them 1.75"-2" in height and I am 6'1".

 

As for the difficulty of them: I'd say any tailor can do it because it is relatively simple. Whether he or she will do it to your specifications is a different story. Some will do other than what you've told them. If you want a slanted line like I do so that it drops lower in the back to cover more of the shoe, it may require more skill - I don't konw.

post #29601 of 33195
Quote:
Originally Posted by forbritisheyes View Post
 

It depends how tall you are. I get them 1.75"-2" in height and I am 6'1".

 

As for the difficulty of them: I'd say any tailor can do it because it is relatively simple. Whether he or she will do it to your specifications is a different story. Some will do other than what you've told them. If you want a slanted line like I do so that it drops lower in the back to cover more of the shoe, it may require more skill - I don't konw.

 

I'm 6'0" and I was thinking 1.75-2" for the cuff as well. We'll see how this tailoring venture goes. Thanks.

post #29602 of 33195
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkside View Post
 

 

I'm 6'0" and I was thinking 1.75-2" for the cuff as well. We'll see how this tailoring venture goes. Thanks.

Others may disagree, but I feel that the taller your turnups, the taller you appear overall(I don't mean your legs specifically)

post #29603 of 33195
Quote:
Originally Posted by forbritisheyes View Post

Others may disagree, but I feel that the taller your turnups, the taller you appear overall(I don't mean your legs specifically)
Okay, I'll disagree to that one. Although I've heard others claim that the taller the cuffs (turnups), the shorter one appears. So it seems both sides have their supporters on this one.

Me? I think that what makes a person appear tall or short is something near that person by which relative height may be judged. If one is 5'7" tall, but standing in a group of people who are 5'2" in height, he's going to strike onlookers as being a tall man (assuming no other overpowering visual clues as to height are in the vicinity). Put the same fellow in a group of six footers, and onlookers will think him short.

Things like plus or minus a half an inch in cuff width, or wearing a suit with vertical stripes, have a modest impact (at best) on perceptions of height. The brain is far more concerned with judging relative size, and it does that by comparing against nearby people/things whose height is either known or which the brain believes it can accurately estimate. (Mind you, sometimes those estimates are incorrect. And sometimes artists, photographers, architects, etc., employ techniques to intentionally mislead the observer with regard to judging relative size. This is the case in certain types of forced perspective. See the pic of the world's largest tourist, below.)

post #29604 of 33195
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12345Michael54321 View Post


Okay, I'll disagree to that one. Although I've heard others claim that the taller the cuffs (turnups), the shorter one appears. So it seems both sides have their supporters on this one.

Me? I think that what makes a person appear tall or short is something near that person by which relative height may be judged. If one is 5'7" tall, but standing in a group of people who are 5'2" in height, he's going to strike onlookers as being a tall man (assuming no other overpowering visual clues as to height are in the vicinity). Put the same fellow in a group of six footers, and onlookers will think him short.

Things like plus or minus a half an inch in cuff width, or wearing a suit with vertical stripes, have a modest impact (at best) on perceptions of height. The brain is far more concerned with judging relative size, and it does that by comparing against nearby people/things whose height is either known or which the brain believes it can accurately estimate. (Mind you, sometimes those estimates are incorrect. And sometimes artists, photographers, architects, etc., employ techniques to intentionally mislead the observer with regard to judging relative size. This is the case in certain types of forced perspective. See the pic of the world's largest tourist, below.)

I agree with what you say. I never said it had a significant impact on perception of height :P Overall, having fitted clothing will make a man appear taller. Certain stylistic things like gorge, where the trousers sit, and turn ups play a factor too, but to much smaller degrees.

post #29605 of 33195

Hey.

 

Someone can tell me some good European websites selling clothes from brands such as Fred Perry, Gant, Tommy hilfiguer, lacoste etc.?

post #29606 of 33195
Quick question. I am heading to NY for business next week. No snow or rain but it will be in the 30's. Wearing a suit for meetings and wondering what piece of outerwear I should bring. I'm from CA so my choices are limited to a brown cashmere car coat or a black Burberry raincoat (lined). Thank you


Thanks,

Eric
post #29607 of 33195

Hi all,

 

I recently bought a pair of AE Park Ave's off Ebay and when they arrived they had "No Warranty" posted on the inside of them and on the sole. However, they appear to have little wear and nothing visibly wrong with them.

 

I was wondering i I could have them re crafted by AE (provided that I pay for the service)? As I've gotten mixed comments on this.

 

If not what should I do with them? Could I have them fully recrafted by someone else when the time comes?

post #29608 of 33195

Checking out this Hugo Boss suit.  I noticed it's made in USA.  Is it a real Hugo Boss suit or a "rebadged" suit from a supplier?  Also, what does it have to do with Pasolini, the late Italian film director?

 

http://www.hugoboss.com/us/boss-pasolini-movie-classic-fit-virgin-wool-suit/hbna50229482.html


Edited by styleforumfan - 1/25/15 at 4:14am
post #29609 of 33195
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin24 View Post

I was wondering i I could have them re crafted by AE (provided that I pay for the service)?
Contact AE and ask.
post #29610 of 33195
Quote:
Originally Posted by styleforumfan View Post

Checking out this Hugo Boss suit.  I noticed it's made in USA.  Is it a real Hugo Boss suit or a "rebadged" suit from a supplier?  Also, what does it have to do with Pasolini, the late Italian film director?

http://www.hugoboss.com/us/boss-pasolini-movie-classic-fit-virgin-wool-suit/hbna50229482.html

Hugo Boss has their own manufacturing in the USA. Ohio, I think.

Their suits are routinely named after famous people and I can never discern any connection between the garment and the person.

While we're on the subject, I am one of the few people on this forum who likes Hugo Boss but I would not recommend paying $800 for one of their suits. You have better constructed options at lower prices -- Suitsupply, Benjamin Sartorial, etc.
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