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post #29461 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by doodledoc View Post

 

What are the rules for suits (I know there are rules/guidelines)? If I wear a suit that doesn't fit properly, no one is going to disqualify me from working, but the suit will not look good and thus will likely violate guidelines.

 

This is a particular (albeit popular) way to think about clothing, but it's not necessarily the proper way. If you do as 12345Michael54321 instructed, be cognizant that the "eye" you're "developing" is one upheld to be good by a particular group of people – a group that pays particular attention to clothing but certainly not the majority of the population or final arbiters of good taste (whatever the term may mean). You're not going to be disqualified in the same sense as you would be if you wore an improper uniform to a BJJ match.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12345Michael54321

 

Look at pictures/videos of men who are generally deemed to dress well and who typically wear traditional/classic looking suits. Study how these men look in their suits.

 

Eventually, you will develop an eye for properly fitting traditional/classic suits.

 

The worst that happens is that a particular group of people are going to think that you have bad taste. (Though another group may think you super stylish – god knows the people who go around "deeming" people to be "well-dressed" (e.g. the people who populate the references E,TF suggested) are not universally admired for their dress.) I doubt that what people think of you is your sole or, perhaps, primary criterion anyways. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by E,TF
 
Also worth looking back through Voxsartoria's tumblr, and some of the threads here - like the good taste thread, the anderson & sheppard expatriates thread, the CBD thread.
post #29462 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Count de Monet View Post
 

Going through today's mail, I ran across a new Orvis catalog and for some reason was struck by how many of the various pants they offered could be ordered either with or without cuffs. A question occurs to me: 

 

At what point down the formality scale do tailored cuffs cease being simply a matter of preference and become a no-no pursuant to some traditional "rule" or guideline?  (I'm not suggesting the list below is in any particular order.)

 

Is there any point short of jeans where cuffs become "wrong"/odd/in poor taste/goofy?

I would say no, but I will acknowledge that thick fabrics don't always need cuffs to drape well, and that they sometimes get a bit too think (especially on heavy cottons like moleskin or corduroy). Also, those are cloths traditionally used for hunting and riding, where you don't want cuffs because they'll collect twigs and brambles.

 

But cuffs are more casual than no cuffs, surely. They're inappropriate with anything more formal than a suit, and I think their origins are in countryish attire (though not hunting clothes).

post #29463 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by BD22 View Post


The worst that happens is that a particular group of people are going to think that you have bad taste. (Though another group may think you super stylish – god knows the people who go around "deeming" people to be "well-dressed" (e.g. the people who populate the references E,TF suggested) are not universally admired for their dress.) I doubt that what people think of you is your sole or, perhaps, primary criterion anyways. 


doodledoc asked about how suits should fit. 12345Michael54321 and I offered good and helpful advice about how to develop an eye for a well fitting suit versus a poorly fitting one. No one mentioned taste or style.
post #29464 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by E,TF View Post


doodledoc asked about how suits should fit. 12345Michael54321 and I offered good and helpful advice about how to develop an eye for a well fitting suit versus a poorly fitting one. No one mentioned taste or style.

 

I'm commenting on what it means for something to "should fit" one way or another. doodledoc (and possibly yourself) seems to think that there's some set of objective rules when it comes to these things when, really, these rules are just what a small group of people uphold as good dress – in other words, good taste or style. It's in this sense that I use the two words (i.e. taste and style). I think you have in mind different concepts. 

post #29465 of 33197
Women's equivalent of traditional style?

My wife is beginning to become interested in the Anglo-American classic style for herself. She's from China and doesn't have a background in this, other than some old movies and a few tips from me. Is there any women's equivalent of J. Press, Brooks Brothers, O'Connell's? Or is women's style more a matter of passing trends? Maybe there's nothing like classic men's style?

For example, winter coats. I like heritage brands, and so we went shopping for Moncler for her. It's now a fashion brand as well as an old-school ski clothier. She found a bubble jacket, but noticed that the cut was petite regardless of size (the saleslady confirmed this). The style looks like it will go out of fashion in a few years. She bought it anyway, but she got to thinking - is there a resource for her analogous to the men's classic clothiers? Thanks so much!

--Greg
post #29466 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by GregNYC View Post

Women's equivalent of traditional style?

My wife is beginning to become interested in the Anglo-American classic style for herself. She's from China and doesn't have a background in this, other than some old movies and a few tips from me. Is there any women's equivalent of J. Press, Brooks Brothers, O'Connell's? Or is women's style more a matter of passing trends? Maybe there's nothing like classic men's style?

For example, winter coats. I like heritage brands, and so we went shopping for Moncler for her. It's now a fashion brand as well as an old-school ski clothier. She found a bubble jacket, but noticed that the cut was petite regardless of size (the saleslady confirmed this). The style looks like it will go out of fashion in a few years. She bought it anyway, but she got to thinking - is there a resource for her analogous to the men's classic clothiers? Thanks so much!

--Greg

 

My impression is that on both the consumer and vendor sides, there's much less emphasis on heritage in women's fashion, though there are particular classic items from which many designers take style cues. They do not, however, include bubble jackets. 

post #29467 of 33197
Lol, this is what prompted her into something more traditional....
post #29468 of 33197

How about this site?

http://www.thefashionspot.com/

post #29469 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by BD22 View Post
 

 

I'm commenting on what it means for something to "should fit" one way or another. doodledoc (and possibly yourself) seems to think that there's some set of objective rules when it comes to these things when, really, these rules are just what a small group of people uphold as good dress – in other words, good taste or style. It's in this sense that I use the two words (i.e. taste and style). I think you have in mind different concepts. 


One of the underlying premises of this forum is that there's a way tailored clothing "should fit." It's broad, and it's fairly flexible, but this forum is inherently limited enough that it's possible to say that something "doesn't fit."

post #29470 of 33197

I need to refresh some staple oxford cloth button downs (white, blue, pink, stripe). Is there anything that tops Brooks Brothers for the decent quality + nice collar roll + price ? A bit less inexpensive is great (government doesn't pay the big bucks.) 

 

For reference, I wear a BB slim fit, 15/34. 

post #29471 of 33197

I have decided to buy shirts that fit (bespoke) so I need to buy some staple shirts first. I rarely wear suits, it is mostly just smart casual. (sweaters, sport coats, chinos and wool trousers)

Do I need mostly blue or white shirts ? I guess light blue is more versatile.

post #29472 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feryll View Post
 

I have decided to buy shirts that fit (bespoke) so I need to buy some staple shirts first. I rarely wear suits, it is mostly just smart casual. (sweaters, sport coats, chinos and wool trousers)

Do I need mostly blue or white shirts ? I guess light blue is more versatile.

 

Light blue is more versatile and a lot of SF users have had good luck going with Luxire for MTM shirts.

post #29473 of 33197

Hello, 

 

I am wondering if my light gray suit is inappropriate to wear at an evening company party and if it is appropriate to wear in the winter at all since it's fairly light. This is the suit: https://www.jcrew.com/mens_feature/TheSuitShop/PRDOVR~30139/99102104852/30139.jsp.

 

I'm not sure if these are "rules" and if they're worth following.

post #29474 of 33197

It's perfectly fine.  A gray wool suit is very versatile. 

post #29475 of 33197

The lapels are quite thin, and the color a bit light, but I think inappropriate would be too strong. Not ideal, I would say.

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