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post #28966 of 33298
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post #28967 of 33298

Simple question: are unlined sport coats and blazers necessarily uncanvased? What I don't really know is whether the canvas can sit between two layers of wool, cotton, etc., or if it has to lie between the outer fabric, and the lining. Thanks in advance.

post #28968 of 33298
Quote:
Originally Posted by wklq76a View Post
 

Simple question: are unlined sport coats and blazers necessarily uncanvased? What I don't really know is whether the canvas can sit between two layers of wool, cotton, etc., or if it has to lie between the outer fabric, and the lining. Thanks in advance.

 

Great question, as I have always wondered the same exact thing.

post #28969 of 33298

I have a bunch of quarterlined jackets, they are all full canvass. Arguably an uncanvassed unlined jacket has a specific feel that might be more desired if you want it really casual and stuff. I found the quarterlined fully canvassed jacket to be quite similar to a fully lined one just a bit lighter/more airy. It does "feel lighter" but it keeps the sillhouette and shape. Keep in mind my jackets are somewhat more british in nature so a strong chest/canvass is a big part of it. I'm sure you can get some made that aren't as stiff if you prefer, perhaps quite similar to an uncanvassed one.

post #28970 of 33298
there are two layers of canvas. there is a canvas running from the top to the bottom of the jacket, and the chest piece on top of that. the horsehair chest piece is the one creating the built up look of the torso, and the one that requires more skill to create shape and lapel roll with that pad stitching. half canvas jackets have this chest piece but use fusibles for the rest of the jacket front. for comparison, my third world tailor uses one layer of fusible only. thats why its cheap and flimsy.

some unstructured jackets are purely made out of the material but some are reinforced with a lightweight canvas running from the top to bottom. not the chest piece. thats why they look relaxed but not frumpy.

pardon the punctuation, im on mobile. consult jeffrey diduch's blog, i remember him experimenting with both types of "unstructured".

edit: found! one with light canvas front: http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2010/09/more-softness.html
one without: http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/09/soft-jacket-completed.html
Edited by kashmir - 11/6/14 at 7:01pm
post #28971 of 33298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

I have a bunch of quarterlined jackets, they are all full canvass. Arguably an uncanvassed unlined jacket has a specific feel that might be more desired if you want it really casual and stuff. I found the quarterlined fully canvassed jacket to be quite similar to a fully lined one just a bit lighter/more airy. It does "feel lighter" but it keeps the sillhouette and shape. Keep in mind my jackets are somewhat more british in nature so a strong chest/canvass is a big part of it. I'm sure you can get some made that aren't as stiff if you prefer, perhaps quite similar to an uncanvassed one.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by kashmir View Post

there are two layers of canvas. there is a canvas running from the top to the bottom of the jacket, and the chest piece on top of that. the horsehair chest piece is the one creating the built up look of the torso, and the one that requires more skill to create shape and lapel roll with that pad stitching. half canvas jackets have this chest piece but use fusibles for the rest of the jacket front. for comparison, my third world tailor uses one layer of fusible only. thats why its cheap and flimsy.

some unstructured jackets are purely made out of the material but some are reinforced with a lightweight canvas running from the top to bottom. not the chest piece. thats why they look relaxed but not frumpy.

pardon the punctuation, im on mobile. consult jeffrey diduch's blog, i remember him experimenting with both types of "unstructured".

edit: found! one with light canvas front: http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2010/09/more-softness.html
one without: http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2009/09/soft-jacket-completed.html

Thanks to you both for sharing your expertise; it's much appreciated.

 

One thing I'm still a bit unclear on, and I do apologize if I missed it in your explanation: is it possible for a fully unlined coat to be fully canvassed? The reason I ask is that I recently saw a listing for an unlined Boglioli K jacket which the seller said was completely uncanvased. I thought this odd, since Boglioli is (supposed to be) a very high quality clothier. 

 

Thanks again.

post #28972 of 33298
it can have canvas, but it might not qualify as what you may think as "full canvas" because it has a layer of felt or other lightweight materials, but no horsehair canvas chest piece. refer to the pictures on the blog link posted. (in short: canvas can be confused as two different things)

boglioli is a different case. they do not produce jackets that adhere to strict classical tailoring silhouette. you wear them for comfort and relaxed look. I don't know if boglioli K jacket have that lightweight canvas or not; from what I've handled they certainly do not have the chest piece canvas. frankly, it does not matter. their specialty is the buttery soft fabric that is very dense- so the jacket maintains its shape well but still feels like a sweater. it's freaking awesome- just not a classical jacket. you wear it slim with linen shirts and pants, with tee shirt and slim jeans, sleeves rolled up and everything.
post #28973 of 33298
Hi all,
What are your thoughts on brown ties with charcoal suits?
Thanks!


post #28974 of 33298
Quote:
Originally Posted by illini_brian View Post

Hi all,
What are your thoughts on brown ties with charcoal suits?
Thanks!

Not ideal, but I suppose if you are wearing a suit that fits, how bad could the tie possibly mess it up?
post #28975 of 33298
Quote:
Originally Posted by kashmir View Post

it can have canvas, but it might not qualify as what you may think as "full canvas" because it has a layer of felt or other lightweight materials, but no horsehair canvas chest piece. refer to the pictures on the blog link posted. (in short: canvas can be confused as two different things)

boglioli is a different case. they do not produce jackets that adhere to strict classical tailoring silhouette. you wear them for comfort and relaxed look. I don't know if boglioli K jacket have that lightweight canvas or not; from what I've handled they certainly do not have the chest piece canvas. frankly, it does not matter. their specialty is the buttery soft fabric that is very dense- so the jacket maintains its shape well but still feels like a sweater. it's freaking awesome- just not a classical jacket. you wear it slim with linen shirts and pants, with tee shirt and slim jeans, sleeves rolled up and everything.

Adding my bit, which is partially conjecture, it's possible to have as little lining as possible and still have a horsehair canvass but as I said some might find it desirable to have a jacket with no such chest canvass because it will give it a far more casual flair. I generally prefer a stronger silhouette and firmer look, but I can definitely see the appeal of an extremely softly constructed jacket of high quality.
post #28976 of 33298
Quote:
Originally Posted by illini_brian View Post

Hi all,
What are your thoughts on brown ties with charcoal suits?
Thanks!



I'm sure there's worse combos but that is fine. Tie looks red on my monitor however.

post #28977 of 33298
What kind of jacket would go well with very dark grey wool trousers?
post #28978 of 33298

navy

post #28979 of 33298
Quote:
Originally Posted by fwwilkes View Post

What kind of jacket would go well with very dark grey wool trousers?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bradp View Post

navy

OK, Mr. Security Guard. sarcasm.gif
post #28980 of 33298
Quote:
Originally Posted by fwwilkes View Post

What kind of jacket would go well with very dark grey wool trousers?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradp View Post
 

navy

Quote:
Originally Posted by CruzAzul View Post

OK, Mr. Security Guard. sarcasm.gif
 

I'm of the opinion that assuming you're avoiding a conservative look across the rest of the board (w/r/t shirt color - white being the biggest culprit - regimental stripe tie, no pocket square, &c.) dark grey trousers and navy work just fine. That said, I do prefer a mid-grey over charcoal no matter what, and am not even opposed to light grey (flannels) in fall/winter with navy. The outfit as a whole determines whether or or not it comes of security guard-ish.

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