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post #28186 of 33197
Is there an extensive thread on here that focuses on unstructured blazers rather than a specific brand? I am more of a streetwear and denim lurker so dont venture to this side very often. Thanks
post #28187 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by CTLION View Post

I am looking for a striped dress shirt with horizontal stripes...with or without a white collar. Can anyone point me in the right direction. I found one in a mens shop locally made by Castangia, but the price is $425 which just isn't going to happen for a shirt at best I wear once every 3 weeks and probably less than that.

Any assistance or recommendations will be greatly appreciated.


Have you got your sizing down? If so, you could consider custom ordering one.

post #28188 of 33197
I recently received a box of 100 ties from a shop closing down. I'm not sure what to match it with. Any ideas on what to wear it with?
post #28189 of 33197

Are worsted wool 120 rags particularly good for anything?  I have an orphan Corneliani suit jacket that has very visible moth holes on the back left shoulder.  I'm sure it's beyond repair.  I think I'll harvest the horn buttons, but I was wondering if the cloth is particularly good for anything, such as shining shoes?  It seems a shame to tear up a nice garment, but I don't know what else to do with it. 

post #28190 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seamless View Post

I recently received a box of 100 ties from a shop closing down. I'm not sure what to match it with. Any ideas on what to wear it with?

Predominantly navy, dark green, or brown suit or sport coat, with a plain white shirt, I'd say.  With 100 ties to choose from, I doubt I'd wear this one much, but I don't really wear paisley.      

post #28191 of 33197
Does anyone have experience with Canali 14000 series suit? How is its silhouette compared to E. Zegna Milano or Cesare Attolini? Attolini fit me like a glove but a bit on the tight side and Zegna Milano fit me perfect with some room for movement.

I tried the 13000 series Canali suit (the one that is commonly sell in the US) and it looks quite structured, which is a bit odd with my broad shoulders. I did some research on SF and the general consensus is the higher the series number, the less padding and more waist suppression it get on Canali.

Any opinion would be greatly appreciate!
post #28192 of 33197

Any thoughts on getting a bespoke tuxedo? (I'm in NYC)

 

I have been looking for a wedding tuxedo for myself, and, armed with some advice from people posting on this site, have looked at a few brands in stores as well as checking out Black Lapel.  Then my fiancee said she want to buy me a bespoke tux for the wedding. After spending some time telling her it's too much money and makes no sense, I agreed to at least look into it.

 

After trying on a few OTR, I think my other option is Black Lapel, which is online MTM but I would go into their offices to be measured and talk to them about what I want.  Those start at $529, and I assume that one way or another I would be pushing that upwards with whatever options or changes I end up with.  I really don't know what bespoke suits cost, other than various comments posted here and some style pages articles. Any ideas on what this will cost, and what it means if different tailors charge very different prices?  Do different bespoke shops create suits with a different look, so that I should understand what a house's style is before picking one? I want a classic look, maybe continental looking, though I'm not experienced enough to really fully know what that means.

 

Also, more generally, is there a consensus view here as to whether it's worth it for a tux?  Will a bespoke tux actually look a lot better than MTM or a high-end brand OTR?

 

If I do try bespoke, do people have recommendations for who to go to in New York? Or even a road map of what to look for? Even getting my head around the possibility that I might do MTM was a major step for me, and this leaves me feeling completely out of my league.

 

Thank you for any information or advice you might be able to share.


Edited by mianmannoi - 7/7/14 at 3:54am
post #28193 of 33197

So the summer has officially arrived in my part of the world, the temperature outside being 85F and pure sunshine, no clouds to see anywhere.

 

Given that I walk to my office (about 15-20 minutes walk), and I usually wear a suit or a trousers/odd jacket combo with a tie to work, is it OK to take off your jacket while outside, and carry it in over your arm?

 

It is too hot to walk with a jacket on in direct sunlight, no matter the fabric (I wore an unconstructed 100% linen jacket today and still felt like I was about to melt).

post #28194 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfridman View Post

So the summer has officially arrived in my part of the world, the temperature outside being 85F and pure sunshine, no clouds to see anywhere.

Given that I walk to my office (about 15-20 minutes walk), and I usually wear a suit or a trousers/odd jacket combo with a tie to work, is it OK to take off your jacket while outside, and carry it in over your arm?

It is too hot to walk with a jacket on in direct sunlight, no matter the fabric (I wore an unconstructed 100% linen jacket today and still felt like I was about to melt).

Of course this is fine.
post #28195 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfridman View Post

So the summer has officially arrived in my part of the world, the temperature outside being 85F and pure sunshine, no clouds to see anywhere.

Given that I walk to my office (about 15-20 minutes walk), and I usually wear a suit or a trousers/odd jacket combo with a tie to work, is it OK to take off your jacket while outside, and carry it in over your arm?

It is too hot to walk with a jacket on in direct sunlight, no matter the fabric (I wore an unconstructed 100% linen jacket today and still felt like I was about to melt).

You have to ask?
post #28196 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by mianmannoi View Post

Any thoughts on getting a bespoke tuxedo? (I'm in NYC)
...
After trying on a few OTR, I think my other option is Black Lapel, which is online MTM but I would go into their offices to be measured and talk to them about what I want.  Those start at $529

Eek! The photo on their website does not exactly inspire confidence that they know what they are doing. Let's count the errors ...


Online MTM is generally a bad idea though. You have a zillion better options in NYC. Assuming $500ish is your price range, I'd look at SuitSupply or eHaberdasher's Benjamin tuxedos. Go to Madison Ave and check out Brooks Brothers and Paul Stuart as well. While you are there you might as well check out whatever Saks and Bergdorf has too. Getting something OTR and having it tailored will often produce better results than online MTM. If you have your heart set on something bespoke, just let us know your budget and I'm sure people can make NYC recommendations. The cheapest I know of would be something like Mr Ned which starts at $1,050 and prices for others go up from there.
post #28197 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred G. Unn View Post


Eek! The photo on their website does not exactly inspire confidence that they know what they are doing. Let's count the errors

 

Yes, that photo is horrible.  It's the main reason I haven't already ordered from Black Lapel. If I bring a photo to a tailor for the purpose of saying, "please don't make me look like this", that might be the one. 

 

But the BlackTieGuide.com guy had one made to review, including a vest of a type that was new to them, and he was happy with the results, which was heartening given the source.  http://blog.blacktieguide.com/2014/02/17/review-black-lapel-2/#comment-9926

 

If the Black Lapel had this photo up on their website, I would have already ordered:

 

Sean Connery - 76th Academy Awards on February 29, 2004

post #28198 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by mianmannoi View Post

Any thoughts on getting a bespoke tuxedo? (I'm in NYC)

I have been looking for a wedding tuxedo for myself, and, armed with some advice from people posting on this site, have looked at a few brands in stores as well as checking out Black Lapel.  Then my fiancee said she want to buy me a bespoke tux for the wedding. After spending some time telling her it's too much money and makes no sense, I agreed to at least look into it.

After trying on a few OTR, I think my other option is Black Lapel, which is online MTM but I would go into their offices to be measured and talk to them about what I want.  Those start at $529, and I assume that one way or another I would be pushing that upwards with whatever options or changes I end up with.  I really don't know what bespoke suits cost, other than various comments posted here and some style pages articles. Any ideas on what this will cost, and what it means if different tailors charge very different prices?  Do different bespoke shops create suits with a different look, so that I should understand what a house's style is before picking one? I want a classic look, maybe continental looking, though I'm not experienced enough to really fully know what that means.

Also, more generally, is there a consensus view here as to whether it's worth it for a tux?  Will a bespoke tux actually look a lot better than MTM or a high-end brand OTR?

If I do try bespoke, do people have recommendations for who to go to in New York? Or even a road map of what to look for? Even getting my head around the possibility that I might do MTM was a major step for me, and this leaves me feeling completely out of my league.

Thank you for any information or advice you might be able to share.

Do you find yourself having occasions to wear tuxedos?
If so, whet is your budget?

If not, why not have her buy you a suit....
post #28199 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred G. Unn View Post

Online MTM is generally a bad idea though. You have a zillion better options in NYC. Assuming $500ish is your price range, I'd look at SuitSupply or eHaberdasher's Benjamin tuxedos. Go to Madison Ave and check out Brooks Brothers and Paul Stuart as well. While you are there you might as well check out whatever Saks and Bergdorf has too. Getting something OTR and having it tailored will often produce better results than online MTM. If you have your heart set on something bespoke, just let us know your budget and I'm sure people can make NYC recommendations. The cheapest I know of would be something like Mr Ned which starts at $1,050 and prices for others go up from there.

 

I did try Brooks Brothers, and didn't like the way the jackets fit on me, and went to Rothmans and tried on various brands there.  I didn't try Paul Stuart because they show only one Tuxedo on their website, which has a description that uses words like "lean contemporary silhouette", "narrower" arms, "slimmer" trousers. All the things I don't want.

 

I am shocked at the Mr. Ned price - I had expected I was looking at $2500-3500 for a bespoke tuxedo.  How is Mr. Ned so cheap?

 

I don't have my heart set on bespoke, but I do have my heart set on looking good. I will pay more if I believe it is making a real difference.  For $500-600 I can get a pretty nice tux.  So if I spend $3000, whether bespoke or OTR, in order for it to be worth spending the extra money I need to feel the heavens open up singing when I put it on. On the other hand if I spend even half that on a suit and just feel like a have a very nice suit, as compared to the nice suit I would have had for $600, it won't be worth it.

 

So other than Mr. Ned, do people have suggestions, and opinions, on bespoke tailors in NYC, or on other ways to do better than Black lapel?

post #28200 of 33197
@David Reeves does bespoke work in NYC and has his own thread here with many pictures of his work.

I think he'll come in at the high end of your budget range, though. It won't be Mr. Ned prices from what I can tell.
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