Really? What would be a good price?
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Styleforum Top Pickspost #26987 of 321733/19/14 at 2:16pm
I didn't say it wasn't good. I said it wasn't the best. I bought Zegna suits for that price with a little research and patience. I haven't been to the B&S forum here in ages, but years ago there were much better deals to be had there. Try looking if you want to save some $$$ or maybe upgrade the quality for the same price.post #26988 of 321733/19/14 at 5:42pmpost #26989 of 321733/19/14 at 5:50pmQuote:Originally Posted by Fred G. Unn
No personal experience with them, but these Herrings (by Loake, but not UK made) look pretty nice for under $200:
Many thanks. Much appreciated.
Acpost #26990 of 321733/19/14 at 5:57pmQuote:
Resell it, you cannot fix a suit that is a size too big. (I'm assuming the shoulders are too big as well)post #26991 of 321733/19/14 at 6:00pmpost #26992 of 321733/19/14 at 6:02pmpost #26993 of 321733/19/14 at 10:43pmQuote:Originally Posted by Academic2
I may at some point be in the market for a pair of Oxford medium brown suede shoes (Balmoral—i.e., closed throat; God this American English/British English thing is annoying, isn't it?).
Anyone know of any that can be gotten for <= $200 USD that you would recommend?
Another option: Allen Edmonds has (for reasons unknown) opted to discontinue the snuff suede version of their Neumok, an unlined wingtip oxford. First's can be ordered through their website marked down to $197. Seconds through their outlet stores this week can be had as part of their 2/250 sale.post #26994 of 321733/20/14 at 3:18am
Can anyone explain to me the merits of hand stitching the lapel line? I don't mean the actual lapel itself, but the line on which the fabric is folded outward to form the lapel. I have a few jackets, and some have the lapel lines hand stitched (I can feel the stitches while running my fingers along the line) while others are simply folded back onto the jacket itself.
Can anyone enlighten me on this? Thank you.post #26995 of 321733/20/14 at 3:50ampost #26996 of 321733/20/14 at 3:53amQuote:
Not enough to make it look right. Learn this lesson now: don't buy something just because you like the material / the
price / the way it looks on a hanger. If it isn't your size, you won't wear it because it won't look good. Regardless of the price.post #26997 of 321733/20/14 at 4:47am
Asked this in another but have just seen this thread.
What is the recommended brush to go with for leather boots and shoes? looking to use it to remove dirt and will use a cloth for the next few steps. I take it a large oval brush is the way to go? if someone can point my in the right direction it would save me endlessly looking at brushes without knowing which one will do the job the best. Seems silly to spend £300 on a pair of boots or shoes and the not look after them properly.post #26998 of 321733/20/14 at 5:34amQuote:
My jackets are all tailored, all from humble local tailors, and I have specifically asked for all of them to be fully canvassed. When they are "hand-stitched" along the lapel line, I find that there is a really nice roll which stays regardless of dry-cleaning/pressing. Which is why I have decided to ask the esteemed gents on here for clarification as I myself am a bit confusedpost #26999 of 321733/20/14 at 7:30amQuote:Originally Posted by Count de Monet
Another option: Allen Edmonds has (for reasons unknown) opted to discontinue the snuff suede version of their Neumok, an unlined wingtip oxford. First's can be ordered through their website marked down to $197. Seconds through their outlet stores this week can be had as part of their 2/250 sale.
Acpost #27000 of 321733/20/14 at 1:26pm
I think if the shoulders are good, then 1-2 inches on the chest and waist is doable. It probably still won't look perfect, but I'd ask a reputable tailor whom you trust to tell you if it can be made to work and how much it would cost. In my parts, it would be 60+ dollars for that depending on what was needed and the number of vents.
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